I wouldn't power them independently if you can help it. The passive network that comes with the components is specifically designed to work with those speakers - it's like mating a transmission up to an engine - if you use the wrong one, the speakers may not perform properly. You probably won't damage them, but they may not sound as good.

If the separate tweeter and woofer wires both go into the head, you have no choice but to run them independent. Try the 4-channel amp, but maybe run the midrange straight through, but the tweeter through the passive crossover (this way you at least get the recommended high pass cut-off).

Yeah Im kinda worried the factory tweeter might be crossed over lower than the pioneer recomends. For now I am going to Wire the speakers up to the stock wires. If I want to amp them I can find them in the center console and run the amp to the wires there.

I don't know how the stereo in the '89 works. In the '98 IIRC they used Piezo tweeters, which don't require crossovers due to sharp frequency response rolloff below the treble frequencies. I don't remember the rolloff characteristic but it's easy to find on the web.

Albertj

I think the OEM tweeters in my '98 are 1" moving coil dome type. They are wired with a capacitor inline (1st order filter) to limit the low frequencies. The mids use a natural acoustic roll-off to filter the highs.

So is the midrange gettig a fullrange in and crossing it over with its own x overs? If so I could amp the midrange channels and run the passive 2 ways off of them and amp them.

After looking at the tweeter I see there is a resistor on it, so I am almost positive that both channels are fullrange.

I scored this 2 way set for cheap, but I was planning on using coaxial speakers.

I plugged the original midrange in with the tweeter unhooked and I had the fader and balance on the left front. I could hear all the low end stuff and I could hear symbols and vocals so I am pretty sure that channel is fullrange.

Heres how I plan to wire it;

I will run the midrange wire out of the source unit to the output converter to the amp. from the amp mounted in the truck. I will run the wires from the amp to the passive cross over mounted in the trunk. I will run the tweeter and midrange wires from the passive cross over to the wires from the source unit to the speakers and I will splice into them there so I will retain all my original wiring incase I need to pull anything out.

I think I worded that badly lol. While I am working on it I will post pics of what I am doing. Friday I am going to a freinds house who has a very nice wood shop so I will get the mdf brackets made.

I got my adapters made today, and got all the signal wires ran. Luckily I still had about 10' of 9 conductor speaker wire from my last build so I only have to make 1 run of wire. There was only a left and right channel going into the source unit. So I will run the midrange wires into the passive crossover and split them there.

I suck at working with wood lol, but these brackets will do their purpose. I used 3/4 mdf for the midrange adapters and plexiglass on the tweeter adapters.

It was a pain to get to the source unit, but like ash said earlier; it was located right under the shifter. For now I am just going to put these mids in as they are now. Future plans will be dynamating the door, and making mdf tweeter backets because the plexiglass on the ones now arent sitting plush.

Also, I found an adapter that goes into the head unit at the antenna that has rca inputs so I can use my ipod through the radio. So I plan to buy that soon.

Heres some pics of what I have got done today,

Heres the original midrange bracket with the new midrange,






New MDF bracket,







Original Tweeter bracket,





Bracket and new Tweeter,







Output converter , crossover, and rcas,







Sourceunit and wires,

I ran into a issue today. I had a real bad noise problem, almost like a bad ground. So I ran a jumper from the amp ground to the battery but that didnt change anything. The car has a factory bose amp, so I am assuming that the problem was that I was sending that amplified signal to the bose amp. I dont really know though. I pulled the amp and just ran all the wires how they were originally. I have the crossover coming off of the midrange channel. If it has a bose amp then Im sure its putting out a little power.

It sounds 100x better with the new speakers, I am very pleased. It wasnt a complete waste running all the amp wires, because now I can add a sub, or I may even try to amp the back deck speakers, they are some cheap pioneers I got out of a totaled car at the shop.