Anyone have any idea if the BCM, PCM, or another computer that I don't know about is tied to this fuse? I talked to one guy who seems to think it may be a computer failing to go into sleep mode.

I think your problem now (it's been ~8 hours) is that absent your follow through on the advice you got so far, folks are out of ideas.

Albertj

just a guess..but, maybe this battery doesnt have enough power to run everything the riv has? try a optima..

The battery and alternator both checked out fine btw. Car starts right up as long as I routinely pull the ELC/IP fuse. I'm just now out of curiosity wondering what exactly is tied into that fuse. When I disconnect it, the doors won't lock, the keyless entry doesn't work, the electronic load control doesn't work, and the radio, climate control, and gauge cluster (gauges and odometer/trip) also don't function. So I can only imagine what else is tied into there but runs behind the scene.

Here's an update:

Long story short, I brought the car to the dealer to get the parasitic drain fixed. I told them point blank, that it has to do with the IP/ELC fuse, and that it has NOTHING to do with any aftermarket wiring, and that it did it before I installed anything. Well needless to say, they never even checked that fuse, and did a general drain test. They told me that it was the cigarette lighter that I used for a powersource on some aftermarket equipment. I know there's a drain on that, but it's not enough of a drain to kill the battery. I told them that even with the IP/ELC fuse pulled the cigarette lighter remains powered, yet my battery doesn't drain. But if I keep the fuse in, it drains in 8 hours. I can't seem to get it through their thick heads that it's whatever system is fed off the IP/ELC fuse and NOT the aftermarket equipment. They seem dead set on that and won't budge. Yet they have the audacity to charge me $100 to tell me I have something plugged into my cigarette lighter. GAHHHHHH!!!!!!!

The point is you have to disconnect the aftermarket stuff in order to diagnose. When the diagnosis is done then teh aftermarket stuff can be reconnected. It is likely that you will learn things with the aftermarket stuff disconnected to prevent a parasitic drain when they are reconnected.

Look, nobody is getting thrills telling you to disconnect the stuff. It's just "been there done that" and experience shows that it's the first thing you have to do. It's really not about your stuff and your mods. It's about sharing wisdom with you that works.

So thanks for the update, and be advised that in order to get through troubleshooting you're going to have to disconnect the aftermarket electricals and see what happens. Let's assume that the drain is still there when you disconnect all the aftermarket stuff--according to what you're saying it should be. If that is the case, then he parasitic drain problem can be quickly found by referring to the wiring diagrams and using a current detector (ref my earlier post) to see what wire is running the drain. Then it can be fixed and most likely the aftermarket equipment connected.

By the way, you may want to connect accessories at one or another fuse panel rather than jumping off the factory accessory wiring. Just a thought. you may find that wiring your own fuse block directly to the battery wiring terminal points (on the passenger side frame rail) woudl work best and give you all the circuits you need. One way is with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062Z5VG

and another way is just to go to a junkyard and find a car with a simple fuse block - maybe an old Hyundai - pull that out and install it in the Riv somewhere in the engine compartment, under the dash, or under the rear seat if you still have room.

Albertj
.

Ended up being the power antenna and the electronic load control. I disconnected the antenna (I don't care about it anyway), and now I'm on the search for a new air compressor for the load control. Apparently the pump never shuts off. Is that a defective pump or more than likely a defective module?

Most likely a leaky air shock!

You're telling us that through all this, you couldn't hear that pump running all the time?

FYI, I had a leaky air shock once. I don't remember that it operated the pump with the car off. It eventually burned out the pump, but the near 10 year old stock battery never failed to start the car.

You'll need to use a test light or voltmeter to check the air ride switch.

However - congratulations on finding the problem and you should be able to get the pump and switch assembly from Ed Morad

http://www.moradpartscompany.com/

I've bought parts from Ed, always been fine.

Albertj