I must really like you guys because I just lost my write-up when I was 3/4 of the way done and I am starting over

Follow either the approved service manual method (a) or my method (b). The manual calls for disconnecting the downpipe, which I didn't want to do. I think it's faster to drop the subframe. Trust me it is very easy if you have a large floor jack or transmission jack. Either way, you are not getting the stock swaybar out of there without doing either of these steps. Don't waste your time trying to wiggle it out, it won't work.

Removal procedure.

special tools required:
a) universal steering linkage puller (J 24319-B if you have access to GM stuff). Most auto places rent these out. Canadian tire lends it to you for a deposit.; OR

b) pickle fork + hammer (it can be done with just a mallet if your car is rust free); AND
Tranmission jack or large floor jack.

1. Raise the vehicle and support it by the frame. Let the control arms hang free
2. Remove the front wheels
3. Remove the left and right endlink bolts. Old stock ones can be problematic due to rust and worn insulators. You won't be reusing anything on the endlink, so don't worry if the sleeve snaps or you break some of the rubber insulators. Just be sure to remember the order of the washers and insulators.
4. Remove left and right swaybar bushing brakets

5. remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the driver's side tie-rod
5a) Use the puller to remove the left tie rod end from the knuckle
5b) Use the pickle for + hammer to separate the left tie rod end from the knuckle. Place the fork between the two and give it a swift, sharp thwack. If your parts are REALLY old and you mess this up, you may break the rubber and not be able to reuse the tie-rod end.
5c) alternatively, if you have no rust down there, invert the castle nut (put it on upside down) and thread it so the edges of the bolt and the nut align. Give the nut a swift, sharp, vertical hit with a mallet and the tierod end should just pop off.

6a) remove the downpipe from the exhaust manifold and from the intermediate exhaust hangers. Lower the exhaust pipe
6b) Use the transmission jack to support the weight (it is not ok to just put the jack on the trans pan), remove the four (4) front subframe bolts and gently lower the subframe. It's not going down more than a few inches by the way... It won't "fall off"

7a) Turn the left strut completely to the right. SLide the swaybar outboard over the left steering knuckle until the right end comes free
7b) Remove the swaybar by the left wheel well. Expect a lot of wiggling. It will help if you have someone pry the subframe downwards with a large bar.

8a) Remove the swaybar out of the centre of the vehicle

Installation Procedure:

1. Install the swaybar into position. The addco swaybar will slide in more easily than the stocker came out
2. Loosely install the following
2.1 Left and right stabilizer shaft insulators. If you are using the supplied addco poly bushings, be sure to grease them. Expect a little squeaking
2.2 Swaybar brackets (and mounting plates if you are using the addco kit)
2.3 Swaybar bracket bolts
3. Loosely install the endlink components. Remember when I told you to remember the order?
4. Install the tierod ends to the knuckles. If you used step 5c), i.e. you inverted the castle nut, don't forget to put it back on the right way, teeth facing down.

Tighten
- bracket bolts to 38 lb ft (40 Nm). If you get a torque wrench in there, you are my hero.
- Endlink nut to 13 lb ft (17 nm)
- Tie rod end to knuckle castle nut to 35 lb ft (48 Nm)

5. install the cotter pins into the tie-rod ends

6a) install the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Tighten manifold nuts to 18 lb ft (25 Nm)
6b) Lift the trans jack and reinstall the 4 subframe bolts tightly.

7. install the front wheels. Tighten lugnuts to 100 lb-ft

8. Lower the vehicle

I was able to get the OEM bar out without dropping the subframe or disconnecting the downpipe, but I have a 3" flex pipe, so it probably helped even though it's a lot larger in diameter.

I also rented the pickle to remove the tie rod end, but didn't need it. Just put a jack under the end and tap with a hammer. Comes right out, and no risk of tearing the rubber boot (it surely would have torn, imo).

I spend a couple of days trying to figure out how to get the stock bar out. Once I removed the tie rod end, it was easy, New bar went in super smooth. Jason, good right-up, do you mind if I add pictures and a few comments?

no please do add pics. I had lent my digital camera to my GF when I did the sway bars and I don't have a scanner to scan the shop manual diagrams (which are not very helpful anyhow). I also agree that step 5c) would be the easiest to separate the tierod for someone doing it in their driveway

If you send in your installed pics to Addco, you can get free t-shirt.

I also think you were able to pull the swaybar out because of the flex 3" dp. I tried to take it out with the exhaust in place and the exhaust prevented it from getting out.

also as a note: when you put the tie rod back in, it self-centres.

Regarding the stabilizer bushings, I called John. He seems to very helpful so far. He's sending out front bushings now, and rears as soon as he can determine which ones. You were right, Jason. Good service from Addco.

rear bushings are gm # 25666235

Yes, I have a pair of those (thanks, Dave). John is going to work with me to find a harder rear bushing like on the fronts.

I was going to use the softer 25666235s because I have stock rubber ones on the front right now. But since John is sending me harder ones for the front, it doesn't make sense to use the soft ones on the back, right?

So I wonder why he's ignored my 2 faxed requests, directed to him specifically? Good service from Addco would be if they'd done this for all of us as soon as they had Jason's deal all figured out for the front. We should not each have to ask for this individually. IN FACT, Never Enough Auto should be taking care of this, not us.

Agree, but Never Enough isn't taking care of this, and someone should be. I left a voice mail for John on Thursday afternoon, and Friday morning he called me back. With those faxes, you never know what might've happened there. But I'm going to work with him while I have the chance. If any one else needs anything from Addco, speak now. Maybe we can help you out. John seems legit from talking over the phone.

the orange bushings are a much higher durometer than the stock green ones. I like rubber bushings myself as they don't squeek.

Due to the design of the bracket, I think the orange bushings are more than adequate. The bracket that holds the rear bushings is only held on by a single bolt. Unless you use a different bracket (shaped like U, with 2 bolts) you're still going to get a little bit of give, even with very hard bushings.

I'm holding an orange bushing in one hand, and green in the other. They seem to be made of the exact same black rubber. When I put them in both in a C-clamp, they compress at the same rate. Only difference is, orange fits a bigger bar with the same bracket, so there's a little less material to move. That means less travel for the bar, but only in the amount of a few millimeters difference.

John recommends harder bushings for the font and back, which makes sense. I've stock rubber bushings up front right now, and John says they need to go. It only makes sense to do the same to the rears, imo.

maybe it's because the orange ones were new, but they felt harder to me. Perhaps they are made of the same material.

I know a firmer bushing is ideal, but keep in mind non-greasable poly bushings will sqeak and it will drive you berzerk. I used energy suspension greasable poly bushings for the front and I am aware that they are there. If ever you find a firmer bushing for the back, let me know.

Also, I don't think you can combine three subjective opinions to come to such a conclusion. We'd have to drive a car with stock swaybars and nylon bushings back to back with a car setup with the upg swaybars to see.

Sometimes you've got to do the best you can. I could visit my grandparents in Dayton and compare rides with Aaron, but we've got different tire and shock setups.

I had the same problem. Best just to spend the 23$ on Energy Suspensions grease-able (part9.5165) and avoid the headache.