Mr. Riviera, you are a life saver!!!

I've been messing around with the rear pads for two days now and finally decided to check if anyone had the same problem as me here and VOALA.
I bought the manual for a 1998 even though mine is a 1997 and it doesn't say anything about rotating the piston.

Thanks for your help.

You're not the only one, John. I bent a C-clamp the first time I tried! This is a great write-up, glad it helped you out.

Worked like a charm. Thanks again, very helpful.
Now, I'm hoping you could answer another question. I'm not just replacing the pads, I'm also installing new rotors I got from Raceconcepts, but they're cross drilled and slotted and I don't know which direction they should be installed in?
Thanks,

Which way?

thanks for the complements but im just trying to repay the forum for all the write ups i have used in the past that is why we are here.
and assuming the arrows point in the direction of rotation, i would install them like the second pic. but i dont think you will see a performance difference either way you put them, its just different looks. same with wheels that have angled spokes.

What I've read elsewhere is that the second pic is better, also for heat dispersal to the outer edge of the rotor.
I guess, looking at from a physics point of view, it makes sense.

It can make a difference if your interior disc cooling vents are directional. You need to know which way the vents are aligned. If the vents go with the slots/holes, mount as #2 pic. If the vents go against the direction of the slots/holes, mount as #1. Mounting is determined by the vents, not the slots/holes. The hot air inside the disc uses the vents to escape with the rotation of the wheel.

Here's a better explanation from StopTech:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/faqs.shtml#16

wating for my rotors.............. come on UPS......... today....

I just received a pair of Brembo rear discs from Auto Barn + Hawk HPS pads from TurboWholesale.com. My old pads/rotors lasted about 110k miles. Nice to have this write-up handy. Thanks again, Matthew!

Good post- I did my rear brakes this morning and it was very helpful. Thought
I would add a couple of things:

I took a picture of the brake tool but probably not worth finding a host for it-
the tool is about an inch square with a square opening on each side for a
3/8" socket wrench or extension and different combinations of 'pegs' on each
side to fit different applications. This will aid in recognizing it in the store.

Probably a good idea to use red loctite on the caliper bolts when you reassemble.

And last- measure your new pads and rotor to be sure you have enough
clearance (ie the piston is screwed in far enough) between the piston and
the forging that the other brake pad seats against to slip over the disk when
reassembling (ask me how I know it is a PITA if you don't have enough clearance)- I needed at least 1-5/8".

Here's the tool:



Here's the alternative:



Imo, choice #1 is WAY easier than #2.

I've used that cube before it phuckin sucks, thats why i actually bought the rear rotor brake kit from my pops. he doesnt use it anymore, plus it's SNAP-ON. but when i did my rear brakes i found it easier if you took the rotor off and bolted the caliper back on the bracket and used the brake cube that way. you dont have to worry about holding the caliper, while making sure the cube stays in the grooves all while you trun the piston back in. the only part that sucks is tryin to line the notches up with the pads.

by the way the snap-on deal only cost me $75 bucks, but my pops threw in sum extra shyt to go with it. plus i need it as being a mechanic.

also, has anyone out there found a rear brake upgrade so i wont have to go thru turning my piston again????????

The cube costs $12. I've used it twice in 160k miles. I could see if you did rear brakes for a living, but my last set of rear pads/rotors had nearly 100k miles on them.