Need to add some info about rust removal from hub, rotor, wheel, caliper and caliper brackets AND proper lubrication of pins, pad sliders, etc.
Wish i took some pic's when I did mine recently.
I take the calipers and rotors off annually to clean and lube. Kind of necessary with all the salt and sand they use here in the winter.

what's rust??

i'll have to add the info to the write-up about re-greasing the hardware. but from what i recall the bracket is "attached" to the caliper and the pins are sealed in the unit with just a boot on the end. no slider pin to remove and no way to access the unit without ripping open the boot/sleeve.

Here are the install instructions I received with the Royalty drilled/slotted rotors purchased recently. They are front rotors, but should also apply to rear:

1) Remove old rotor.

2) Carefully clean rotor mount and hub to ensure they are free from rust & scale.

3) Check brake caliper position for full retention ability.

4) Disassemble all caliper slider mechanisms, remove all scale and rust, smooth file or sand as necessary to provide smooth surface on slider faces.

5) Apply small amount of high melting point grease sparingly to sliders. Reassemble caliper.

6) Fit new brake pads. Failure to fit new pads invalidates warranty and will cause high spots on rotor. Rotor will overheat and vehicle may suffer loss of brake in early driving miles. Do not install caliper at this time.

7) Install new rotor and secure with two wheel nuts finger tight and inspect rotor for run-out (before fitting wheels). If run-out exceeds .003" remove rotor, rotate rotor one bolt hole and repeat. If run-out still exceeds .003" there is a run-out fault on the vehicle which must be rectified before proceeding. Obtain On-Car Brake Lathe and skim rotor to bring within tolerance or use tapered shims to correct. Run-out in excess of this figure will cause "brake judder vibration". This is not a warrantable condition.

8) When satisfactory run-out is obtained, remount brake caliper with pads, mount wheel nuts, then finger tighten.

9) IMPORTANT: Tighten wheel nuts with vehicle hand brace or torque wrench using gradually increasing torque figures and tighten wheel nuts diagonally. The common fault when installing new rotors is to tighten with air gun to torque figures way above what is required. This pulls the rotor surface to one side, creates significant run-out, will cause disc thickness variations, and eventually brake judder.

10) Check brake fluid level and pump brakes to bring up pressure. Follow vehicle manufacturer instructions in all respects in addition to the above guidelines.

do the 95-99 calipers fit interchangeably?

the year for this says 97+

simply asked...simply answered. lol perfect.

so what else does the 95 fit with interchangeably? bonnes? grand prixs? years?
thankss

Don't know, parts like that I just go to the auto parts store and order for my year, make and model and get what fit's with a warranty.
I know many other GM car's share the same calipers, just don't know which ones.
You can try asking the parts guy or a salvage yard has a database with interchangeability info.

if you need new caliper let me know and you can pick up my old ones on your way up.

95 and 96 had the same calipers. i believe the older park aves and bonnies had them too, but i dont know the years.

Scotty,
Are you having problems with your front calipers?

technically no....but the previous owner did almost ZERO maintenance on the car. matt can vouch for me...the calipers and rotors are in awful condition. rust from the pittsburgh winters full of salt has just killed them...so matt said itd be a good idea to take care of all the little things such as calipers and rotors. matt also noticed i have an exhaust leak in the "lower exhaust manifold"(name?) i hope to have that looked at and fixed when i go home. after i take care of those things and everything is running properly ill think about investing some money into some mods.

yea i was flicking chunks of metal off the rear rotors.

when we did the sea foam there was a ton of smoke coming from the front manifold, so i'm guessing it rusted through somewhere.

i think thats the name. well go with lower intake manifold. im def gonna get the calipers from matt. im mostly likely not going to get the leak fixed before i leave. up north at home not only is my dad the service manager, but i have a buddy who is a T-type freak. he has 2 and he said hed help me with stuff that i need. im just hopin its not too hard to fix and dont need a new one and just need a gasket or sumthing.