Edit: Here are the instructions

(Thanks to TType_Riviera for this write-up)

Replacing your leaky oil pan gasket is a very simple yet slightly time consuming due to taking your time and cleaning all your parts!

Tools and misc. things you'll need:

1. 5 quarts of your favorite oil/and filter
2. Oil drain pan and filter wrench
3. 15mm wrench and some shop rags
4. 1/4 ratchet with suitable extension
5. 3/8 6point socket for pan bolts,10mm 6point socket for flywheel dust cover bolts,8mm 6point socket for oil pickup tube bolts (if you are removing )
6. 2 cans of Brake parts cleaner,1 tube of RTV gasket maker (sensor safe)
7. Gasket scraper or razor blade if removing oil pick up tube.

step 1

Start by jacking up your car and setting it securely on jack stands. Drain out all oil and remove filter.


step 2

While you are waiting for the pan and filter housing to drip, start removing the 2 10mm bolts from the plastic flywheel dust shield, and then remove it. Unplug the oil level sensor in the side of the pan. Start loosening the pan bolts. finger tighten the drain plug back into the pan and start removing all bolts. Lower the pan down easily because there is still some oil in the very bottom where the pickup lies.


step 3

Dump the remaining oil into the drain pan, hold the oil pan above the drain pan or something to catch all the gunk ,an spray the inside of the pan out with brake clean and continue to spray the out side then wipe clean with a rag.

step 4

remove old gasket an throw away. You should be able to remove with out taking the pickup tube loose, however your new gasket should come with a new pickup gasket. You can replace if you like. If removed 2 8mm bolts hold the pickup tube to the block.

step 5

lay out new gasket flat side down as seen below. Start applying a bead of the gasket maker around the inside of the gasket as seen below, then carefully flip over and do the same. The gasket should rest on the windage tray bottom allowing you to keep the already applied sealer safe from smearing.


step 6

install pickup if removed with new gasket an tighten the 2 8mm bolts snuggly. Spray a rag with some brake clean an wipe off any contaminants or oil that remain on the block surface. Carefully install the new gasket being careful not to smear the sealer and stick it up to the mating surface. Hold there for a few seconds and it should stay. Clean off any dirt or oil from the pan bolts and lift the pan up and align holes carefully. Install and finger tighten a few bolts and then snug them. Then finish installing the rest of the bolts. Tighten them all down lightly and then starting from the center bolt on each side of the pan snug each bolt from side to side, working your way to each end of the pan.


step 7

Plug your oil level sensor back in and make sure you drain plug is tight.
Re-install the flywheel dust cover and continue to inspect everything. After doing all that, go back to your pan bolts an give them a light tightening.

step 8

Install your new oil filter, take car off jack stands an continue to fill with new oil, fill to proper level, start car an let run for about 5-10 min continuously checking for leaks...drive for about 100 miles and go back under an check the tightness of the pan bolts, then continue to drive, and like any car inspect while doing the next oil change. This should fix your leaky oil pan gasket! Good luck and remember to take your time, and clean your parts good!!!



I am going to have to change mine pretty soon and I have a couple of questions.

Are the instructions posted above missing anything?
What are the torque specs for the oil pan bolts?
What kind of RTV should I use? Black?

Thanks!

I found this spec for the oil pan bolts "Oil Pan Bolt 14 Nm (125 inch lbs.)" Is that around 10 ft/lb?

125 in/lbs. divided by 12 = 10.42 ft/lbs

10 ft/lbs... no wonder these thnigs leak... and making the bolts tighter is not going to help.

if you're lucky you'll be albe to clean those bolts and holes so you can get some Loctitie Blue in there. (the removable loctite)

I bet the reason oil pans start leaking has much to do with temperature changes (heat/cool/heat/cool) and vibration. There must be some interesting real-worled engineering tradeoffs that constrain what materials are used for the oil pan, as well as its location.

Albertj

Does anyone what kind of rtv I should use if any?

Black RTV will be fine.

Thanks for the help!

they sell an oil pan gasket for our oil pans. once to you get the oil pan off you will see what im talking about. you can pick it up from oriley's, thats where i got my brother's from. make sure that you remove the oild sending unit pressure switch before installing the new gasket. you might have to remove the switch before removing the oil pan, i didnt have to.

I had my oil pan gasket changed when we had the trans out for rebuilding. I was worried that the rear main seal would need replacing but it was bone dry. I was told that these engines have a one piece seal that can be replaced after the flex plate is removed. My garage floor is now clean with no drips. Greg

98Riv - Did you ever do this. I just picked up a 95 Riv that I suspect is leaking from around the oil pan.

Permatex makes a spray sealant that is specifically developed for this type of low pressure leak. It might work...of course you would have to clean the area well first...use brake cleaner.
I can find the product later(working now) I dont think it is sold at parts stores anymore but if you google it you can get it at amazon.com

Bert