Pretty sure lawnmower batteries, motorcycle batteries, and car batteries are all 12 volt.

It looks like there's holes in the prongs - maybe the best way is to try to run the wires through them per Eldo's suggestion. I thought about using the female quick connects but the one's I've got are too fat. Need to find smaller ones anyway.

I've got dielectric grease. Should I bother cleaning this old stuff off?

Should I be using it on all the door connectors?

I need to revise my previous statement that GM uses it on all connectors. That's not true, it is used on connectors that will be exposed to moisture to help keep the water out and prevent corrosion.
JR, I would try and clean off the old stuff maybe use a Q-Tip or something that can get in the connector and apply new dielectric to the connection after you finish testing the circuit. Soak the Q-tip in electrical contact cleaner or acetone.
It can't hurt to apply dielectric to all the connectors that are exposed to moisture inside the door panel.

Turns out there are no holes in the male prongs, they were just photographic illusions. On to plan B, try to find smaller female quick connects.

Or as Rick suggested, run into Radio Shack and pick up a couple of jumper wires with alligator clips...

They'd have to be tiny - those prongs only have about an 1/8" space between them. I'm a little worried about clips touching each other. Besides, I need to get smaller female quick connects for my speakers anyway.

I've got it figured out, and it was obvious I only need to use one big fat 3M quick connect. I can hold the bare end of a wire onto the other prong. Since the 3M connects are fully encased in plastic, there's no danger of the bare wire shorting against them. I've just got to keep from brushing against the door metal while I'm reaching in there with the bare wire. I've got heavy rubber gloves just to be safe.

One more question, and this is probably stupid - what order should I apply the positive and negative wires to the motor prongs? I'm assuming I wire up the battery first, stick the quick connect wire onto a motor prong, and then brush the other prong with the remaining wire. So should the quick connect be on the positive wire or the negative wire?

I don't understand electricity too well, or maybe I don't understand the difference between AC and DC. Does this make sense? AC needs a circuit to work, and the negative wire is the return wire. DC doesn't need a circuit, and the negative wire is a ground wire. I'm all confused Please edumacate me.

If you have $10 or so you might find it helpful to go to Radio Shack and get a couple things.

One is an in-line fuse (you can also get at autozone) and the other is to get some "test cables" - these would be wires with alligator and/or battery clips on the ends, also test probes (look like little nails or pins fitted into the ends of handles)

And yes as Rick pointed out no kidding there is not enough voltage here to hurt you at all. There is enough to startle you. Except - well - in the days of coil/distributor ignitions, one hazard was that the energized coil would pack quite a wallop. One time I had a Datsun 710. The ignition key stuck in the ignition such that I could not turn the car off. So I parked it and opened the hood. I figured if I pulled the coil wire I could turn off the engine. Well, I pulled the wire - but I pulled the *distributor* side not the coil side.

What was I thinking? Never do that.

I got a shock such that I could not let go of the wire so it jolted me I think 3 times before the car finally quit. It was weird. with each jolt my fist tightened around the coil wire and I could feel it in my knees, which were resting on the (metal) bumper. And I could not let the &^$*@#&^ wire go until the engine finally died.

Anyway, if there is a problem it's around your high energy ignition, or around hydrogen gas from the battery or gasoline vapors.

Anyway, back to this mess of wires from Radio Shack. What you do, then, is put the fuse into the circuit. You can cut one of the wires that has a pair of battery clips on it, then solder or crimp the fuse into the circuit. Put in a 1-3-5 or so amp fuse and you are set - if you misconnect the wires the fuse will blow and you'll have a laugh (well at least the first time - second time you'll wonder why the connections are so hard to get to).

I have to run

Albertj

A circuit is always a circuit, AC or DC. But since a car is made of metal, non-electronic (non-fussy) items can use the body as the negative return... The motor isn't grounded because the + & - have to be reversed by the switch in order to reverse the motor. Thus, you can't short out the bare wire when you're fishing it into the door unless the motor itself has an internal short. If that were the case, I think you would have seen some smoke by now.

Just to follow proper procedures, use the 3M to connect to the motor from battery positive, and use the bare wire for negative - then nothing will happen if you touch something else in the door.

PS - Rick is right, the only way you're gonna' get bitten by 12V is if you're standing barefoot in salt water.

Lotsa sparky sparky, no movement from the motor.

More money for Monster Parts Online . . .

Try Morads, I know they have several. Unless you don't want used.
See what they cost new at monster and then offer Morads like 20-25% of new, depending on mileage.
I think monster will only offer it as a regulator assembly. Which consists of the track and motor assy. More expensive that way.
Come to think of it that's the way Morads advertises them also, IIRC.
OEM P/N is 22154977 for the left door
22154978 for the right door

Well, I was wrong Monster parts does offer just the motor for about 125.00.
Need to use the above p/n to find the left one though. Their listing only shows the right one for some reason.