Back on regalgs.org someone once mentioned cleaning the window motor. While I've got the door apart, I'll go ahead and do it - if anyone knows where it is and how to remove it.

This thing looks likely -



I'm not sure what it is, it doesn't look like a motor, but maybe the motor is underneath it?

You're in the ballpark, that's the counterbalance spring.
The motor itself looks like a small wiper motor, and is mounted vertically to the regulator either to the left or right of that spring, inside the door. The person you mentioned probably meant clean and lube the regulator rack & pinion gears, not the motor itself...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24229483@N07/3644409965/
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Soooo is there any service procedure for this part or is it supposed to last forever?

It looks like you have to take off the sound insulation that's glued to the door in order to get at the window motor. Not sure how it would go back on unless there's a glue for putting it back on.

Are you talking about the vinyl barrier? There is a 3M trim caulk used for that. It is black and comes in strips you pull apart into little ropes. One trip to the NAPA or auto paint shop, and a few bucks will get you a lifetime supply. It does not spoil/fail unless you get it dirty in place and then it won't stick to anything. Their part number 8578. Here it is on the web:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3M8578&Category_Code=JASS

but if you shop around you should find it locally for about the same price.

As for the "thick and waterproof grease" it's just the lithium grease used for hinges and garage doors and the like. I have some but it is in spray can. You could use some of that silicone grease (like in my weatherstripping post) but that would be overkill. Lubriplate lithium open gear grease is what you're looking for.

http://www.heavydutystore.com/lubriplate-lithium-based-open-gear-grease-pr-23273.html

it tends to spit from the little straw you stick in the nozzle, but just wipe off the overspray/excess with a little Windex or some such, if you have to, and you're good to go.

Albertj

And now we know Thanks!

I'll see how the window sounds once I get the switch back together. Before it didn't seem as strong as the passenger window - but perhaps it wasn't getting as much current through the gunked up switch?

Having seen the inside of one, I can believe they have a resistance problem.

Alrightey, new switch is in and - nada! All the drama and expense I went through with the switch was for nothing!

So the problem is either with the $100 motor or the $300 regulator.

Does anyone have a smarter answer than "keep throwing money at it till it works again?"

I think the switch throws a relay, not power directly to the window. A sure way to test is to hotwire the window motor though... Two connectors, one + one - and it will go up or down. Reverse wires for oppsite direction...

Here's the plug on the motor. Is this pure corrosion or did GM use something like bulb grease on the contacts?

How can I get this wired up to test the motor? I've got a lawn motor battery I can test it with, if that's the right volts/amps/whatever. I don't know about getting wires onto the motor plug though. It's kinda tight in there.

I can't tell from the photo... Are there holes in the tabs that you can run small wires thru? Also, are the tabs anywhere near the size of regular crimp connectors (about 1/4")?

The lawnmower battery should be fine. It's 12-volt (6 caps) right? And yes, since it is in the wet part of the door, GM probably did pack it with grease.