Well if it isn't one riv for me it's another.

My moms 1990 Riv is having a dying issue. It will start up fine and very quickly and 99% of the time it will run for 10-15 minutes then all of a sudden it will sputter then die. As it dies there is a burst of air that comes out of the throttle body.

After it dies I try to start it again and it will start then almost immediatly die. After two or three tries it catches again and keeps running then the process starts all over.

There are no codes during this either.

Thanks

Could be a crank or cam sensor. I forget what the '90 has. We had issues with our '86 when it got hot and it ended up being the control module (the thing under the coil packs) overheating.

Yeah, because when the car is running it seems to be running very well. Alittle rough but it does probably need a tune up on it as well.

Is there a way to test the coil module? It is an expensive part to just take a guess on. I have a 95 Riv but the part numbers show to be different so I assume I can't try the one off of that motor.

I do know when I did a scan on the car for codes there are no current codes but it did have two history codes.

Code #1 was 42 which is a malfunction in the Electronic Spark Timing (EST) system

Code #2 if I remember correctly was code 34 and had to do with MAF/MAP reading to low.

Well went and replaced the coil module. Seemed to help how it drove and overall idle however it did not seem to fix the dying issue.

I took it out for a test drive and it drove/ran a ton better than it did before. I get it back home, let it sit and idle in the driveway for about 10-15 minutes and it would die. Best way I know how to describe it dying is like when a car runs out of gas, just a few up and downs of the idle then dead.

No codes now, none in the history either.

If you can reach the crank sensor wiring, one thing you can do is run the car until it quits then unplug the sucker and test for continuity with an ohmmeter. If you don't have continuity (very low resistance) then it is bad. I do not know the value (what resistance in ohms) the ohmmeter should show for a 'good' sensor but maybe someone else does.

The only problem with this is the crank sensor is usually darn near unreachable for this kind of test, as it's behind the harmonic balancer. Maybe there is a way to check is somewhere else on the wiring harness but I have never done that. So Be Very Careful not to get cut or burned.

Albertj

Oh ok, I will see what I can find on the crank sensor.

However my scanner still shows nothing but I did run the onboard diagnostic by holding down the off and Temp Up button at the same time. Now I got some codes.

b552H
r033H
r041C
r042C
r061C

I found some codes meaning on another site but they are not specific to the Riviera but here they are.

33 Mass air flow (MAF) sensor - signal voltage or frequency
is high during engine idle
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor - signal
voltage is high during engine idle (Note: Engine misfire
or unstable idle may cause this code)

41 Cam sensor (CAM) failure
Cylinder select error
Tach input error - no reference pulses during engine run
Electronic spark timing (EST) circuit - open or shorted
to ground during engine run
Direct ignition system (DIS) fault - bypass circuit open
or shorted to ground during engine run
Ignition system fault - loss of 1X Reference Pulse signal
Retrieving ECM Codes

42 Electronic spark timing (EST) circuit - open or shorted
Direct ignition system (DIS) fault - bypass circuit open
or shorted to ground during engine run
Fuel cutoff relay circuit - open or shorted to ground

61 Oxygen sensor signal fault or port throttle system fault
or on-board cruise control fault (vent solenoid circuit)
Air Conditioner (A/C) system performance problems

Thanks,
Mike

OK mike do you get the hint about code 42?

Albertj

Well to a point I do but I feel my knowledge on these cars holds be back on quickly diagnosing these issues.

The fuelcutoff relay makes sense to me because it dies like is runs out of fuel but I just don't understand why it can run for so long then all of a sudden decide to quit about the same time each time.

Thanks

I'm strongly suspecting the fuel pump has gone bad at this point. It wouldn't hurt to replace a 20 yr old fuel pump.

Sorry I'm making you throw parts at the problem! I hate fixing cars this way!

The louder noise from the rear during start up or when you just turn key on and wait and listen will be the level ride compressor.
At least on my car that's what I hear.

Rickw is right - the '90 has a levelling suspension in the rear. That' compressor is occasional and a bit noisy.

Does anyone know if the fuel pump can be "commanded" on on the '90 RIv using a Tech II?

Albertj