I have been fighting with that P0341 for a year now, and have not located the problem yet. Mine is intermittent...it will do it 5 times in a day and then not do it for a month. I wouldn't be so quick to replace that magnet if the code is not set all the time. I had a service writer try to sell me a magnet replacement as well. When I asked, "Wouldn't the code be setting all of the time with the magnet missing?", I got a blank stare and then left. I have replaced the cam sensor, ICM, PCM, and front plug wires. I need to get to the rear wires when I change my plugs (hopefully this weekend). I'm also going to try to reroute or shield the ICM wires away from plug wires. Also, my traction control is never disabled when the 341 code sets on my Riv. After the plug wire change, the next diagnostic just might be a match.

to pull the front cover and replace this thing, do I need to pull the blower and/or lower intake too? I don't see why I would...

I wouldn't think so.

Dang, I need to buy those t/l sequencers...

how many miles on the riv Pat? and do you have any other uncool behaviors besides the occasional stalling?

i had the code too but i just cleared it and it never came back.

Well I took the cam sensor off again today to look to see if the interrupter is there or not. It looks like it's there.


this pic is what I see with a mirror looking into the sensor hole (with the interrupter there)


thats a pic of the timing cover off that i found using google (just to get a reference of exactly what it all looks like)


thats the interrupter (courtesy of Intense)

My thoughts at this point are that even though the problem of loosing the interrupter has been remedied in the series 2 engines, with all the miles, heat/cold, beating, etc, the interrupter has lost enough of its magnetism that it's providing too weak of a signal.

any other thoughts before i spend about $200 replacing this stuff?

It occurred to me no sooner than on my way to work today that the symptoms of my problems can quite logically all point to a worn timing set. The noises i hear, the crappy transitional conditions, the trouble code(s), the miles, and the strangeness of the problem in general. All would very sensibly point to a chain tensioner thats bad or the chains just really stressed. Since I will be replacing the timing set with Intense's single set, and the new interrupter is on the way, I should be good once i replace it all. I'm going to try to get working on it this weekend.. possibly next weekend..

got all the hard parts and the gaskets and stuff. just need to do it.
sure would be nice if i had already gotten my service manuals for this...

ok who knows what exactly needs to come off to do this timing set replacement. I have the belts off and that mount all off as well as the p/s pump out of the way and i'm lookin at this thing and i still cant find the front cover really. i cant define where it is exactly. do i need to remove the alternator or anything else to get in there

oh yeah and how the F are you supposed to get the coolant out without spillin it all stupid? I see no petcock or anything anywhere!

I just got the Rollmaster chain today. will try to start the job tomorrow. I'll post info from the manual as I get to it. So far, I've read the sprocket bolt is a one-time use (stretches when torqued), so will need to pick up a new one from GM. Here's the RM:

Yes, the cam sprocket bolt is part #24501366, sells for $5.55. NO ONE has it in my area. Only way is to drive to Akron (over 100 miles), so I'm putting this project off till next weekend, sorry. Ordered the bolt through GM parts, will be in Wed or so.

Guess I'll tackle the SC coupler today instead...