Due to popular demand , I have created a true FWI system that does not require removal of the wheel and fender lining in order to allow your engine to suck in the cold air it loves so much , for less than 100 bucks!

Here's a few pics of the finished product-



So how much would you pay to know how to build such an intake? $100? $20? Nothing? Correct! Just for being a member of this board , you will have access to all this knowledge for free! ( other fees and charges may apply)

OK so here's what you'll need:
-2 feet of intake tubing , I used 4" , 3.5" will probably work fine , I used a 3.5" filter so effectively my intake is only 3.5", not a concern for me.

-KN 7" 3.5" 7" filter , pictured here:


You can use bigger if you want to make the hole bigger but I wouldn't go any smaller. This KN was kinda cheap too , ~ $35 bucks , near the custom intake section at advance rather than near the other KN filters.

-Self tapping screws

-A Dremel or other metal cutting device. I used a dremel with an EZ cutting kit , worked OK , probably not ideal but it worked good enough.

-Roof flashing

-Two band clamps ( one is included with the filter , the other with the intake tubing ( at least from ZZP it is)

And some free time.

First remove all of your stock intake setup , and open the hole up with the dremel or cutting device of your choice , it will be covered by the roof flashing anyway , so don't worry about aesthetics. I opened it just enough to where most of the fliter will fall through , but it is still supported by the metal on the fenderwell.

My hole ended up looking like this
-
Not pretty but it works

Next cut up the roof flashing so it can fit in the fenderwell , and open it up so you can slide the intake tubing through. In my car , i had to open up the flashing as far as i could on the opening , I probably went a little too far with the material removal on the base as i probably could have retained the stock airbox mounting holes and my intake would have looked better , and not left so much exposed metal , however functionally it is just as well.
Should end up looking something like this
-

Next mount your intake tubing to the throttle body , and position the roof flashing over the intake tubing a few notches higher than it will be once its finished , so you can put the filter on easier.



From there mount your filter , slide the filter into the hole in the fender and slide the roof flashing down so it can seal off the filter from the engine bay.

Use self tapping screws with washers to keep the roof flashing in place you may have to detach the intake tubing from the throttle body again , but thats no big deal , be careful since once the screws break through they will come down quick , so make sure to use washers and be careful , otherwise it will look like this-

Again still works , but just not pretty.

I still need to make a hole for my IAT sensor , but that shouldn't be too difficult. When that is done i'll adjust the write up accordingly. But otherwise start your car and enjoy the bliss of supercharger whine and added throttle response ( definitely noticeable over the WAI i was running throughout the winter , despite the slightly smaller filter.

I'm sure this could be replicated and done much better , and when i go to clean the filter i'll probably redo the roof flashing , but functionally its a good setup IMO and cosmetically it is sufficient.

Hope this helps someone out!

Nice writeup tony! Mine was similar, but without the flashing. I just put the stock airbox back in so I could have an IAT again. That's the hardest part, and I'm curious how you approach it. I didn't do it out of sheer laziness, although I did pick up a few other AT sensors from Grand Prixs to use in some experimental fits - the W-body uses a smaller sensor that might be easier to fit. readily available in junkyards, etc.

Thanks!

I figure it'll take some brainstorming to mount it in a safe , accurate and practical spot. Or i might just buy an IAT extender and drop it into fenderwell and be done with it.

.

Nice install, looks clean with that shroud thing. That filter is much smaller than the 9" that I got with my intense FWI kit. It *just* fit, but I had to relocate the horns(both on the same side for the 95..). For those interested in doing a FWI, even a 9" cone will fit in without taking off the tire if you are careful. Just jack the car up with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left and you can get at the fender well no problem.

I gotta say though, I might add some roof flashing to mine, cause that looks slick!

Am i the only one that can't see the images.????

Nice job! I agree with Deek, no need to remove the wheel to do a FWI from the side, but you do have to partially remove the plastic fender. I chose to delete 1/2 of the horn (I don't live in NYC).

Only concern I have with all FWI designs is the fact that air is partially drawn from the engine bay. See my full thoughts in this thread: http://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/write-up-installing-fwi-filter-heat-shield-air-scoop-t1209.htm

Looks very similar to the one in my Regal.

Nice job!! I love it when i see someone take the time to make something and do a write-up Props to you

Nice write-up, great pictures. I am going to have to get one of those flashings, because my hole looks like crap too. I beat the hell out of it with a hammer to make the hole wider. It worked, and I didn't have to buy/borrow a power saw.

Excellent job! The 7" K&N is probably the idea size for a FWI for this car. The 9" is so damn big that when you start the job, you're like "No way this is going to fit in there.... what did I do".

Regarding horn location - I think people are making it more complicated than it needs to be. I simply mounted the horn on the opposite side of the original mounting bracket. So I kept both horns, freed up the space for the K&N, and it took no time at all. Let me get some pics.

Okay, I know these are kind of blurry, but I took them with my cell phone. You can click on them to make them bigger.

Here you can see the horn in it's stock location.


Here is the horn, relocated. It's in virtually the same spot. All I had to do was take out that little hex screw right there, take the horn off, and rebolt it on the other side of the horn bracket, more towards the front of the car. Very simple.


Here is a picture of the 9" K&N in there. Thing takes up all the room.

Question.???
What Is the flashing made of, tin/sheet metal or rubber or ......

Link to picture of 4" roof flashing


Thats about what you need rick. Sorry the pics won't work for you. Not sure whats up with that.

Thanks Tony,
I'll be doing this mod when i install the GenV and all the other parts I've accumulated.
Hopefully soon, the weather starting to get better up here. Spring is around the corner.