http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4797

I have been bed ridden sorta.. dad went and did a scan for me

Umm This is with the LQ4 files for the MAF if you would like to see my bin pm me with your email and i'll email it to you!!!

mods include Gen V, SSAC, 1.9RR, 3.3 pulley intake, N*, LQ4, and supporting mods..

my guess is that 8* KR at 20mph is due to wheel spin and trac control doing its thing pulling timing rapidly.
other than that it's hard to tell how it is running since your dad didnt get it past 60mph or see the top of 2nd.

O2s are wild and lean, likely a contributor to the KR or a result of the wheelspin/trac. Has your torque management been disabled? Please scan for MAP KPa instead of "boost". Also scan for IPW (injector pulse width). Is this street gas or E85?

If you want to send me your .bin I can help you figure out your tuning, but not from that scan...

Scan isn't very good resolution, not enough to tune from. Besides, no WOT tuning until you've tuned both idle and cruise first. Oh, there's a mistake in your sig, should say under rated.

Are you running the 3.1 pulley on the GenV with 1.9 rockers? Do you at least have PEMs or headers? Some more info on your mods will help with the tuning/scan reviewing too. Don't you have big injectors too? We really do need to know all this stuff to be able to properly analyze a tune.

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4801

heres a little idling and slow cruising

Now that's more like it. Look at frames 116-on, where LTFT is lean. For every one that is a +% value, check the corresponding MAFF value and adjust your BIN's MAFF table at that MAFF value a +1% amount. For example, you subtract 1.24 from that MAFF value in your BIN's MAFF table. Only do 1 % per row at first.

Flash, reset your PCM, scan again, and see if it made a difference. You should see your LTFTs go down by about 1%. If the report is good, you can start changing by more than 1% until all of your LTFTs are near zero. Ideally you want them to be between -2 and 0. They'll never be exactly zero because of things like wind, hills, and air temps.

DO NOT CHANGE MAFF VALUES MORE THAN 1% UNTIL YOU KNOW. Some scanners have the +/- values mixed up, so you think you're rich and you're actually lean!

AA... Umm you say to Reset the PCM.. after doing a flash does it do this automatically?

Yes, I have a MAF calculator, but I also created my own in Excel. It works with KR, too, and graphs before and after fuel curves.

Like a math calculator, I recommend doing it manually until you understand how it works, then use the calc for when you're doing scans & tunes more frequently.

When you flash your PCM, them should be an option to reset the fuel maps. Check it! This makes all LTFTs return to zero, so more accurate results for your next scan. You won't need to wait for the PCM to 'learn' the new fuel curve, like a lot of folks will tell you.

Here's another tip - try waiting until you see your STFTs in a given range start to drop. When STFTs get close to 0, see what your MAF Hz and LTFT is. The LTFT represents the change you need to make to the MAF, but only after STFTs settle down. That's the part that takes time.

Also, you don't want to do too much tuning with no load on the engine. Tune your idle while in gear, not in neutral. Then watch your TP% and do 10% throttle, starts and stops, unitl STFTs settle down, then adjust for LTFT. Then do 20% throttle, repeat...

once you get up around 30-35% throttle you will start to encounter boost, at which point you stop getting usable STFT and LTFT readings. This is where it gets more difficult. But that should get you started.