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 Light Module Problem?

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Z-type
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Name : Andrew Zamiska
Age : 30
Location : Cecil, PA - 25 miles south of Pittsburgh
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PostSubject: Light Module Problem?   Thu Mar 05, 2015 10:21 pm

Hey guys,

This morning something new happened with the Riv. It had been sitting in the garage for 3 days and it was sorta of warm then dropped 30 degrees overnight. I started the car this morning and the lights were flashing on and off about 4 times per second. I turned it off and just turned the battery on, same thing. I could hear something clicking away like crazy when this happened, which I assume is some sort of relay system in the Light Control Module?

Anywho, I pulled all light fuses and turned on the headlight switch and it did the same thing but no physical lights. Rapid clicking, no lights, ok. Probably the module. Next time I turned on the battery, no clicking or flashing, but the headlights weren't on. I turned the headlights on and it started clicking and flashing again. Thought about it for a minute, turned the battery back on, and nothing. Everything has been fine.

Sudden drop in temperature on an aging electronics system? Should I consider finding a spare module? Sorry if the post was confusing. It was a very confusing morning.
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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: Light Module Problem?   Fri Mar 06, 2015 2:56 am

Probably the effect of temp drop on an aging **battery** - take a moment, remove the negative wire from battery and then measure voltage across the terminals. A new battery will measure 12.4 - 12.6v, and how far under that you are indicates an issue for further checking.

Suppose you are at 10.5v or so. That indicates a dead/dying cell in the battery.

Suppose you are at 11.8v or so. If you've been doing a bunch of short trips it might just need charged. IIRC it takes a while driving, I think 20-30 minutes, to recharge battery if your charging system is healthy. But also use a no kidding battery tester or take the battery somewhere that does and check the CCAs.

It would be nice to be able to check the specific gravity of fluid in each cell and also the water level -- can't really do that on the OE batteries, I think.

If you are below 450 CCAs in any event, in order to avoid headaches replace the battery.

Sitting for several (3) days and then a steep temp drop would make an already weak battery become pretty sickly. When the voltages drop low on the Riv a bunch of electrical stuff will malfunction. In bizarre ways. My $0.02: test the battery and if it will not produce 450 CCAs just replace it and don't look back. Cheap way to do that - call regional junkyards and get a replacement out of a Caddy. People don't junk their cars over batteries, a **lot** of junkyard batteries especially in lux cars are just fine, and the junkyards can usually test the batt for the basics, like how many CCAs it will produce (just ask).

...and while you're at it, check the alternator for its output.

Albertj


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Z-type
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Name : Andrew Zamiska
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Location : Cecil, PA - 25 miles south of Pittsburgh
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PostSubject: Re: Light Module Problem?   Sat Mar 07, 2015 7:14 am

That's a good point Albert, the battery. It's only 2 1/2 years old but yes it was sitting for a few days. I checked it over and after a drive it was sitting at 12.5, and it usually runs at 14.2.

Ill check it before work today and see what it's like just from sitting overnight in this cold.
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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: Light Module Problem?   Sat Mar 07, 2015 12:13 pm

Z-type wrote:
That's a good point Albert, the battery. It's only 2 1/2 years old but yes it was sitting for a few days. I checked it over and after a drive it was sitting at 12.5, and it usually runs at 14.2.

Ill check it before work today and see what it's like just from sitting overnight in this cold.

Voltage should measure 13-14v on a Riv that is running and charging its battery.

Voltage should measure 12 something to 13 something on a battery that is out of circuit and being tested with a regular voltmeter (not a load tester).

My guess - and this is ONLY a guess - is that all will be fine if you pull that battery and charge it fully with any reasonable car battery charger, for instance the small "automatic" kind you can get at a KMart or WalMart for about $20, or better. I assume you already have a better charger in your garage.

If after a charge your battery measures no-load less than 12v, then it has a bad or dead cell or other internal fault.

As I've mentioned to others, an inexpensive way to get a good battery is to just get one from a junkyard. People usually don't junk their cars over batteries and it's worth more to the junkyard to sell you a good one than to melt it.

Albertj
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Z-type
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Name : Andrew Zamiska
Age : 30
Location : Cecil, PA - 25 miles south of Pittsburgh
Joined : 2009-06-29
Post Count : 1411
Merit : 59

PostSubject: Re: Light Module Problem?   Sat Mar 07, 2015 6:40 pm

Got cha...that's lots of great information! Yes I knew less that 12 was a good indication that it was about to die.

This morning mine measured 12.3 before a cold start. Seems ok for last night being so cold. Maybe I'm being a bit paranoid about the light module smile
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