Sir Psycho Sexy's '97 Riv

Yeah, I'm sure having to figure it out as I went along was what made it seem awful. With a rough idea, it should be be much easier for you.

Back wasn't as bad. The top has two new holes drilled at the bottom and bolted in, and the top isn't held in, but it's squeezed pretty firmly in place. The bottom, I dremeled most of the wire supports out, and tore most of the foam out to make it fit. It has "loops" in the back that will slide over "hooks" that the top section has. The front isn't attached to anything. This makes disconnecting the negative battery terminal very easy. It's not all that comfortable, but it could be done for a short trip. Since I've owned the car, a grand total of zero people have sat in my back seat, so it's mostly aesthetic anyway.

Installed 8k HIDs today. Probably picked up about fifteen horsepower from that.

Seriously though, I love them. Driving at night is nicer, it makes the car look better, and the kit I bought took about fifteen minutes total to install.

Car doesn't move forward at all while in drive when I take my foot off the brake. I have to give it gas for it to move at all. My thought was low trans fluid, and sure enough I WAS THREE QUARTS LOW. The place that did my recent alignment also did a oil change, so my suspicion lies there. I park my car in the same place every night and have never seen anything on the ground.

So, I added the fluid, and it's doing the same thing. Won't move till I give it gas. Is something fried?

Sir Psycho Sexy wrote:

Car doesn't move forward at all while in drive when I take my foot off the brake. I have to give it gas for it to move at all. My thought was low trans fluid, and sure enough I WAS THREE QUARTS LOW. The place that did my recent alignment also did a oil change, so my suspicion lies there. I park my car in the same place every night and have never seen anything on the ground.

So, I added the fluid, and it's doing the same thing. Won't move till I give it gas. Is something fried?

Fluid is full? After filling, did you cycle through every gear with your foot on the brake? This helps get fluid where it needs to go.
This is exactly what happened when my Forward Band broke. All I did was stop at a light. No bang, no clunk, just wouldn't move. I made it to work at 4000rpms (I was a block away).

Yes, I cycled through all the gears. Once I get the car moving it seems to drive pretty much fine. It will start rolling forward when I give it just the slightest amount of gas. One thought is I was playing around and I have my idle RPM lowered by like 50 RPM right now. Is that enough to make it so this? I'll try raising it to see what happens.

That's weird. You might have a line pressure problem? Hard to say. Unless you can monitor what the trans is doing while your driving, it could be a couple different things. RPM should have no affect. Once you put it in DRIVE, it should be solid in gear.
Can you scan and see if there's a trans code with no SES light?

I haven't really looked into it because I've never felt the need to, but can you scan trans parameters in HPT? And I'll be able to use that to pull any codes.

When I put it into drive or reverse, I can feel that little "kick" of it landing in gear.

what HIDs did you get? link please!

Uhhh... I'll check and see!

One thing that I thought about today and feel like kind of an idiot for not thinking of before is the reason I'm not moving forward in gear may not be trans related. I might have a stuck caliper or something. Gonna throw it on my friends lift today and check that out.

My aunt insisted on taking a picture of my dad and I with my car because she thought it was a "Sharp car that you don't see a lot of. There's never been anything quite like it." I told her it was really dirty, but she wanted to anyway.

It's kind of cool having anyone older than fifty be in love with my car. Lol

Made an impulse buy today...

A little info on the snail...

It's from a 7.3 Powerstroke, as far as I can tell somewhere between 94-99. I paid $100 for it and there is no play, so I'm pretty pumped.

It's ****ing huge. 1.10 A/R compressor, but I was lucky enough to get the .84 A/R turbine, so it will actually spool with the 3800 (some had 1.15 A/R turbines apparently).

This is copied from a Powerstroke forum.

STOCK GARRETT TP38 (on the 7.3)
Compressor wheel inducer diameter: 59.87 mm (60 mm)
Compressor wheel exducer diameter: 80 mm
Compressor housing A/R: 1.10
Turbine wheel inducer diameter: 76.2 mm
Turbine wheel exducer diameter: 69.84 mm (70 mm)
Turbine housing A/R: 1.15

The interesting thing is the turbo is reverse scroll. From what I understand, for my purposes all this means is the housings are mounted backwards.

This will be a slow moving project, but it should be fun.

P.S. Let's all have a moment of silence for the future of my transmission.