Write-Up: Sequential Turn Signals

Under braking? WTF? Tell me there's a way around this! I'd prefer they not sequence with hazards, either. Can they be wired for turn signal only?

AA wrote:

Under braking? WTF? Tell me there's a way around this! I'd prefer they not sequence with hazards, either. Can they be wired for turn signal only?

I think it would be sweet if it were varibly controlled by brake pressure.... if you ride the break one light, a little harder, 2 lights, and down is all 3. Eventually I am defiantly gonna do this.

AA wrote:

Under braking? WTF? Tell me there's a way around this! I'd prefer they not sequence with hazards, either. Can they be wired for turn signal only?

there isn't any practical way around this. You would have to run more wires from the brake switch to the lights independent of the turn signal circuit. It really isn't a problem at all. Like Alex said, I almost see it as an added safety feature. If only one our of the three brake lights came on, people would still see it it clearly, and then you have more lights coming on while you're still braking - Kind of like Mercedes' flashing brake lights that they are trying to legalize because it's proven to prevent related accidents by making the following driver more alert. Except the sequential lights won't give them a seizure at the same time lol.

It just occurred to me that you may be thinking of this the wrong way. To clarify, When you press the brakes, The lights sequence on and stay on until you let go of the brake. They don't keep sequencing while you hold the brake. That could be discerning.

As for the hazard lights - IMO, the sequencing effect makes that much better. I think the multiple flashes will catch drivers faster, resulting in a more effective warning

Oh, all right, that's cool. As long as they stay on while I'm braking. I didn't like the thought of the car looking like a christmas tree while stopped! I can tolerate the hazards, the only thing is when you have to flip them on with the car off, I can see it draining the battery faster.

I finally ordered these today. Can't wait to put them in.

congrats my friend how it turns out well

After sitting on my shelf a few months, the sequential flashers are in... and I love'em. I was waiting to install them, because after installing the Hidden Hitch, I needed to wire a trailer lighting connector. This was the perfect time to do both projects.

The install went well. It took a minute to understand how they work, as I'm not the expert on car electronic systems, but once it hit me... wow, it's so simple!

A few notes:

The kit included the two extra bulbs needed for the center lamps, but not the 4 screws to install them.

The supplied crimp connectors are nice, but they only give you just enough. Good to have some more of these around, or a soldering iron.

The factory flash setting is great. I didn't need to mess with tuning the flash rate.

The supplied heavy duty flasher module is pretty loud, and flashes at a faster rate than my previous unit. I tried getting used to the relay click, but I'm sorry, just can't take it. Tomorrow it will get the "bubble wrap and rubber bands" treatment.

When locking the car from outside with the remote, none of the rear lamps illuminate. When unlocking, only the back-up lights turn on. I'm thinking of ways to fix this. It would be really cool to have the light sequence when you lock/unlock, like Knight Rider.

Overall, I like this mod a lot. It's an exterior mod that's kinda not. Very classy too, imo. I'm a avid signaler; use them every chance I get. Cant wait for people to see these things as I pass them by and merge!

When I lock the car, mine flash normally. The parking circuit lights, not the stop/turn. But mine might be different because of the aftermarket remote/alarm/etc. I did notice that the sequencer slows down just a hair when its very cold outside. When you have a real cold day again, start it up cold and check them again.

Aaron, My flasher relay doesn't make any noise that I can notice. You might try a different one, just make sure it's heavy duty. Those things can generate some heat so wrapping it might not be the best idea.
FYI: If I have the ignition key turned up but the engine not running, the flashers won't sequence right. It needs full power to operate correctly (at least that's the way it is on my car).. I guess what I'm trying to say is, the lights might not sequence right by the remote and the car not running.
I'm glad you like them! I think they are perfect for the riv and give it a little needed something for the rear.
I'm two to three years out on mine with no problems and love to show them off.

My signals work fine with the car off. Because I have the voltage booster, my car normally reads 14.5-14.9 volts with the engine on. This results in my battery being charged to above 13 volts when off. Since the parking lamp wiring is still intact, it seems clear that my car does not illuminate the parking lamps when I hit lock/unlock on the remote. Maybe it sends a low voltage signal to the stop lamps?

I understand the heat issue with the relay. I tried using my old flasher, and it works, but I wonder if there's a downside to using it.

How much wiring is involved with this install? If there's anything going from the front fusebox to the rear it's out, but if it's just simple things around the taillamp I may consider doing this. Also, how would you go around making the different light bulb fit?

Could you post some pics later? Show some details of exactly what I'd have to do. I think I'd like this one...

I took some pics of the install. It's easy to do once you see how everything works. Everything (almost) modified at the rear of the vehicle. Here's a basic before-and-after wiring diagram:



Here's the stock wiring/lamps with lens piece removed (sorry, lamps are hiding behind bumper cover:



The flasher is located under the dash. The kit includes a new one to replace it:



Back side of lens piece, right side. Note middle hole is smaller. This is because the center bulb is not a signal lamp, it's only a parking light:



Dremel out the center hole (roughly 1" dia) so that supplied signal bulb can fit:



Drill the mounting holes:



New signal bulb mounted:



Here's the old parking lamp. It gets cut out and discarded:



Showing which wires are cut on the left side (same on right):



Almost finished (see first page of thread for Codith's pics of wiring):



Tying down wires before reinstalling rear lens. It looks like a mess, but there are also wires for the trailer lamp harness:



I just tucked the sequential flash module under the bumper cover. I think it should be all right there. If I find it hanging under the car one day, I'll consider using some adhesive foam tape.

Did the kit come with wiring instructions?

I think I see that you have to cut the "A wires" for the inner and outer red bulbs, completely cut the middle red bulb out, and I'm guessing solder the new 3rd bulb onto the two wires that were cut from the middle one? Do the A wires need to be used again, or are all the bulbs just on 2 wires?

Also, do you absolutely have to replace the flasher? Is it easy to get to, as in there are no panels that need to be removed?

They did include very thorough instructions, but it's lots of reading. They think you can do it in an hour, but I had to read their instructions for an hour before I knew what was going on. Codith's pictures helped me out more.

So I created a wiring diagram and put in my above post. Their instructions provided a lot of words, but not a whole lot of useful pictures. I think my diagram makes it easier than trying to explain. I had to read their instructions over, and over, and over... you can tell the person who wrote them was not a visual person. Some people might prefer it this way, though.

The "A" wires are cut on each side. One of these (from flasher unit) goes to the input of the sequential module. Doesn't matter which one because they are the same wire. The module has three outputs per side: one for inner, center, and outer lamps. These get connected to the inner and outer OEM lamps, and to the supplied center signal bulb on each side. All of the parking lamp wiring remains intact, except for the center bulb, which is cut and then reconnected to the new bulb.

The instructions say to replace the flasher. They claim it makes the sequencer module function correctly. It is very easy to get to. 3 screws under the driver side dash. It only takes a minute.

Aaron, If I had known you were doing this already, I would have warned you. But watch out for the aftermarket bulb sockets pinching the wire against the sharp edge of the socket and the body of the car when you tighten the assembly back in. Both Jack and myself had this issue and it looks like you have the same sockets. It didn't necessarily short right away but if it does, you'll probably blow the fuse or if you're unlucky like I was, you might blow one of the SCRs in the module and have to request a warranty replacement.

If you have that issue, just remove the socket, take the stuff out of the socket and grind that lip off but don't go to far as to grind out the bottom edge that retains the spring and ground ring. That as well as double-heat-shrinking it just to be extra safe, fixed that problem beautifully.

Either way, if you decide not to address it now, just keep an eye on it after driving and such because a wrong bump could potentially make it short as is. If it blows the fuse or just remains shorted, you will likely see the hazard indicator illuminate on the dash every time you hit the brakes or use your turn signal. That's telling you its not working. I just about drove clear through Indiana not knowing why that was coming on.

Wow, all this makes me want to just forget even attempting this. I know you all are trying to help but looking at this having not bought the kit yet it makes it look like a major pain in the ass. Hence why I hate modding our cars, every damn thing has to be custom fabricated...My luck I do it and have no parking lamps.

Thanks, Codith. The instructions actually mentioned the possibility of contact with the bulb on some cars. I noticed slight contact when I installed the rear lens. Thinking I could use a ball peen hammer to make indentations behind the bulb housings.

Shintsu wrote:

Wow, all this makes me want to just forget even attempting this. I know you all are trying to help but looking at this having not bought the kit yet it makes it look like a major pain in the ass. Hence why I hate modding our cars, every damn thing has to be custom fabricated...My luck I do it and have no parking lamps.

Looks can be deceiving. This was far from being a pain in the ass. This was a "start it after dinner" project that took me about 2 hours. I could do it again in 1 hour. Tools needed: screwdriver, Dremel, drill, crimper... that's it. It wasn't difficult, and "our car" is actually one of the vehicles that needed less modification compared to say, a Camaro or T-Bird. This was less work to install than my made-to-fit trailer hitch (6 bolts).

When you want special features that the OEM doesn't offer, it's not going to be a plug-and-play with any vehicle. There are just some laws of physics and logic that can't be overcome if you want to do something like this. If it was a Mustang, there would be no easier way. This is the same kit they use, and they spend the same amount of time installing it.

The kit is designed about as well as I could expect for the needed result at the price paid. If this mod seems intimidating to install, I would seriously consider whether or not you want to modify any type of car in any way. An alternator swap on a Honda can be a much more involved project.

turtleman wrote:

Aaron, If I had known you were doing this already, I would have warned you. But watch out for the aftermarket bulb sockets pinching the wire against the sharp edge of the socket and the body of the car when you tighten the assembly back in. Both Jack and myself had this issue and it looks like you have the same sockets. It didn't necessarily short right away but if it does, you'll probably blow the fuse or if you're unlucky like I was, you might blow one of the SCRs in the module and have to request a warranty replacement.

If you have that issue, just remove the socket, take the stuff out of the socket and grind that lip off but don't go to far as to grind out the bottom edge that retains the spring and ground ring. That as well as double-heat-shrinking it just to be extra safe, fixed that problem beautifully.

Either way, if you decide not to address it now, just keep an eye on it after driving and such because a wrong bump could potentially make it short as is. If it blows the fuse or just remains shorted, you will likely see the hazard indicator illuminate on the dash every time you hit the brakes or use your turn signal. That's telling you its not working. I just about drove clear through Indiana not knowing why that was coming on.

SNAP! I forgot about that! Sorry, it's been awhile. I went to O'Reilly's and bought a pair of sockets that are shorter and that fixed the problem.

Just out of curiosity, would maybe trying an OEM light socket like one from one of the other locations work? Just cut the slots into the light assembly and lock it in like the others? Is the OEM socket shorter than the socket supplied with the kit?
By the way, great job with the dremel tool Aaron!

Hmmm, got another question...

How do I take off the taillight? Do I need to take off the gray plastic thing surrounding the lock for the trunk? Those twisty anchor things on either side of it inside the trunk? Any hidden screws? I like to look at the wiring and get a feel for what I'd be working for before making decisions. Usually, I can look at something for 10 minutes and figure out most of how it works.

Quote :

Is the OEM socket shorter than the socket supplied with the kit?

Yes, the OEMs use a 90º bend, making them a lot shorter.

Quote :

How do I take off the taillight? Do I need to take off the gray plastic thing surrounding the lock for the trunk? Those twisty anchor things on either side of it inside the trunk? Any hidden screws? I like to look at the wiring and get a feel for what I'd be working for before making decisions. Usually, I can look at something for 10 minutes and figure out most of how it works.

There are two screws on the plastic piece inside the rear wall of the trunk. Remove them and the 5 plastic fasteners holding it in. Remove the plastic piece. Remove the two visible plastic wing nut/hooks from each side of the wall. Pull open the carpet and loosen the plastic wing nuts. The lens piece will then come out. Be careful.

Alright, I'll be sure not to let the 1-piece lens get any cracks on it.

99Rivman wrote:

Just out of curiosity, would maybe trying an OEM light socket like one from one of the other locations work? Just cut the slots into the light assembly and lock it in like the others? Is the OEM socket shorter than the socket supplied with the kit?

That's an idea. I think it would work, but you would need to cut slots for the bayonet style mount to work. I don't think most are up this level with the Dremel.

Instead, I just modified the new supplied bulbs with the Dremel, so the wires can exit the side instead of the back. I also Dremeled out the area directly behind the bulbs so there is less pinching.

Btw, this pinching issue was directly responsible for the lights not flashing when I unlocked the car with remote. I found this out when night came and I had no rear parking lamps! Both sides had worn through the insulation and causes shorts, blowing the L & R fuses!

I fixed with electrical tape and now there are no problems.

Coincidently, I had the R rear inner turn signal bulb go out yesterday, and I like how the sequential module responds to the situation. It will flash both of the good bulbs at the same time, so you will notice backing up that there is no sequencing.

Having this system makes one replace burnt out bulbs immediately!

anyone know where i can find the sequential taillights at?