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Jack the R
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PostSubject: Slow windows?   Thu Jan 19, 2017 7:55 am

The passenger side almost doesn't have the strength to break past the rubber seal and roll down.  I'd say it's time to replace the motor but the newish driver side window (new motor and switch a few years ago, barely used) is slower than it used to be too.  The windows were stupid fast when I got the car.  Now they feel a little pathetic.  

The Optima battery is only 3 months old.  I've got an Optima battery tender that analyzes the battery and says it is charging the battery to 100%.  The positive battery cable is brand new.

I'll replace the passenger motor if there are no other ideas but I thought I'd ask before throwing money at the car, which I've done a lot of in the last year.
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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: Slow windows?   Thu Jan 19, 2017 10:58 am

Jack the R wrote:
The passenger side almost doesn't have the strength to break past the rubber seal and roll down.  I'd say it's time to replace the motor but the newish driver side window (new motor and switch a few years ago, barely used) is slower than it used to be too.  The windows were stupid fast when I got the car.  Now they feel a little pathetic.  

The Optima battery is only 3 months old.  I've got an Optima battery tender that analyzes the battery and says it is charging the battery to 100%.  The positive battery cable is brand new.

I'll replace the passenger motor if there are no other ideas but I thought I'd ask before throwing money at the car, which I've done a lot of in the last year.

On the OE motors the glue that holds the permanent magnets in place fails and the magnets move a bit. At first the motor slows down. When the magnet has moved enough (it may never) the motor fails.

You have to be picky about replacement motor because the Riv motors were faster than the normal GM motors and they are interchangeable. When my pass side failed I had the dealer do the replacement thinking they would get an OE motor for replacement... nope... the motor they installed works but it's a standard-speed unit.

Had they riveted the magnets in place instead of gluing them, these motors would last until the brushes wore out... Sigh...
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Jack the R
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PostSubject: Re: Slow windows?   Thu Jan 19, 2017 11:40 pm

Hmm, RockAuto has the Dorman motors on sale for $13.27! When I changed my driver side motor I believe we talked about having the motors rebuilt to marine grade. The Dormans would be a good temporary solution while the original motors are rebuilt.
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LaFlare
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PostSubject: Re: Slow windows?   Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:43 pm

hmmm... my passenger side window and switch work fine, fairly fast,, but the driver side switch for driver window will go down but i have to play with the switch to allow it to go back up, driver side switch will also allow passenger window to go down, but will not go up at all

i remember looking at threads like this years back but im not sure if the pictures in those threads were removed/expired?

how many components are there when dealing with window problems? 2 switches and 2 motors? what would be my fix here?
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Jack the R
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PostSubject: Re: Slow windows?   Tue Mar 14, 2017 7:14 am

Probably only the driver's side switch. If you've got extra cash you could replace the motor while you've got the door apart. Be careful with the crumbly plastic when you pull the door panels.
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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: Slow windows?   Tue Mar 14, 2017 11:38 am

LaFlare wrote:
hmmm... my passenger side window and switch work fine, fairly fast,, but the driver side switch for driver window will go down but i have to play with the switch to allow it to go back up, driver side switch will also allow passenger window to go down, but will not go up at all

i remember looking at threads like this years back but im not sure if the pictures in those threads were removed/expired?

how many components are there when dealing with window problems? 2 switches and 2 motors? what would be my fix here?


I just replaced my drivers side window switch.  It is one unit containing driver & passenger window switches and lock/unlock switch.  About $225 new, as little as $20 used but more typically $40 - $100 depending on where and when you get it.

I took apart the old one and saw the metal contacts on the drivers side switch had burned. You can put CRC "contact improver" connector-safe lube on switch (and plug) contacts to keep that from happening BUT in this case you can't get the switch apart far enough to make the fix without destroying it due to how it's designed to snap together... don't bother, just replace it as a unit.

To get to it, remove the screws at the front and back edge of the door panel (near the top) and the long T30 Torx head bolts from the door pull assist handle (that C shaped handle in the middle of the door). DO NOT PULL THE HANDLE OFF THE DOOR PANEL, you use that handle to help lift the door panel off the door shell once you have the bolts out. (however, if someone busted it off before you, don't worry about it). Finally, in the door handle well there is a hidden screw under a tab in the middle of the escutcheon. Remove the tab carefully by prying around the top with a teeny screwdriver or nylon pry tool, then unscrew the screw and then pry out the escutcheon. Once the bolts and screws are all out you can lift the panel vertically about an inch or so, this disengages the little plastic hooks on the back from the door shell, and tip the top of the panel toward yourself so you can reach around and disconnect the wires from the back. One way to so this is squat with your knees under the bottom edge of the door panel then use your knees to nudge the panel up. Disconnect all the wires then lift the panel away from the door.

While you are in there consider replacing the water barrier - you can use a construction -type trash bag for that since they are now discontinued from GM, but you *may* be able to find one NOS - if you don't find a NOS water barrier, be sure to allow a deep dimple for the speaker to fit into. Also while you are in there lubricate the door handle remote rods and the backside of the lock/door handle with some sort of plastic-safe lube and put lithium grease or similar on the moving part of the window lift mechanism. Also clean any dirt out from the bottom of the door cavity so it does not hold moisture and start rust.

Albertj
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