Power steering fluid

Anyone know if carquest brand power steering fluid is ok for use in our cars?

Thanks

It should be fine.

You want to use PS fluid because it will take the heat better than say ATF. It gets real hot because most of the time the pump is spinning and the PS is doing NO motion, so the input becomes heat in the fluid. IIRC it consumes at least a few HP. A 1500W space heater equates to around the energy that would get you about 2 HP...

If it means anything to you, I got rid of the "chatter" in my PS by swapping some of the fluid in my PS reservoir with Lucas. I think the whole system is maybe 1/4 Lucas fluid.

I got power steering fluid CHF 11 for German cars on Amazon, great stuff.

Thanks for the replies. I'm slowly getting things fixed on this car that I saved from the scrap yard. I replaced the supercharger coupler last month and that got rid of the rattle at idle but then I was able to hear a knocking sound at idle when warmed up. I was concerned that the supercharger was still making noise. I disconnected the supercharger belt and started it, that's when I discovered that the noise was coming from the power steering pump. The P.O. had 26 inch rims on the car which I think may have put a strain on the pump. As an aside, my other car, a 2006 Chevy HHR has electric power steering.

Quoting Larry you can have a mechanic do a pressure test with a gauge on the pump before you change it.
Since these cars are 20 years old most will have issues. My car did even with 60,000 original miles. Saying a car is in great shape it's like saying she's hot, it's subjective LOL.

A mechanic doing a pressure test on the pump would probably cost as much as a rebuilt pump. Since the fluid is full and the pump is making noise when it's hot and also given the way the car was abused by the previous owner I'm going to replace it. I'll be doing the job myself so there won't be a labor charge

Anyone use the supertech Wal mart brand power steering fluid? My concern with it is that is says it has leak preventor in it.

Cliff96 wrote:

The P.O. had 26 inch rims on the car which I think may have put a strain on the pump.

That's not even possible IMO.  There is no difference in steering effort from larger diameter rims, and even if there was, the pump is easily capable of dealing with it.  If the fluid isn't aerated, then I would rotate the pump by hand.  If there is a bearing problem, it will be apparent.

There was a TSB about the P/S pressure hose causing low speed groans from the system but not a knock.

Ok your probably correct. I guess I am just biased against the huge rims some people put on cars, especially after the damage to the outer front fender edge and the front bumper cover edge from rubbing that I see on my car.

I just discovered that the power steering fluid was over filled and off color. The over fill could explain the noise since the fluid expands when hot. I am going to try flushing and filling with new fluid before I change the pump. The car has 129,000 miles on it so if it's the original fluid or atf fluid that someone had put in it needs changing.

Cliff96 wrote:

Ok your probably correct. I guess I am just biased against the huge rims some people put on cars, especially after the damage to the outer front fender edge and the front bumper cover edge from rubbing that I see on my car.

Yeah, me too.

Cliff96 wrote:

I just discovered that the power steering fluid was over filled and off color. The over fill could explain the noise since the fluid expands when hot. I am going to try flushing and filling with new fluid before I change the pump. The car has 129,000 miles on it so if it's the original fluid or atf fluid that someone had put in it needs changing.

That could certainly be it.

Well I did a lazy mans power steering flush by repeatedly siphoning out the reservoir and running 2 quarts of new fluid thru. It did make the power steering quieter but I still have the thump. Good news though! This morning I found the source if the noise! It's the part in this picture. I'm going to look for the name of the part in my fsm but if someone can comment on what part it is that would be great. Thanks

It's located right behind the alternator

I identified the part that was thumping. It is the evap. Solenoid. The fsm was no help, I don't find the index to be user friendly. LOL. I identified it by looking thru different part sections on rockauto. I found that the rubber elbow connector on it that ran to another part was cracked. I was able to fix that by pulling a cable very tight around the elbow connector. The thumping stopped when I did that. There is a really sharp knock against the solenoid housing when I put my finger on it so I may go ahead and replace it

Cliff96 wrote:

I identified the part that was thumping. It is the evap. Solenoid. The fsm was no help, I don't find the index to be user friendly. LOL. I identified it by looking thru different part sections on rockauto. I found that the rubber elbow connector on it that ran to another part was cracked. I was able to fix that by pulling a cable very tight around the elbow connector. The thumping stopped when I did that. There is a really sharp knock against the solenoid housing when I put my finger on it so I may go ahead and replace it

Even a junkyard swap would work out, AFAIK the evap solenoids don't go often. Might want to figure out why it failed, though. Mine is still original.

If you want, you should be able to get a replacement "vacuum harness" at a GM dealer, or simply go get some fuel line/vac tubing at a NAPA or Advance and some fittings, and make up a replacement yourself. What you do is instead of rubber tees use hard tees and small pieces of the vac tubing as nipples where needed. The system does not draw enough vacuum to make the tubing collapse (although that's why I like fuel line for this, it's stiffer). Last time I replaced mine, the dealer's counterman sold me a harness for the 2004/5 Monte Carlo. GM had killed the Riv's vac harness part number instead of crossing it to the number used on the MC. That said, the MC harness fits #exactly#.

Thanks for the input. You really know your stuff on this car. The noise is gone now so I'm not sure if the evap solenoid is bad or not. When I put my finger on the top of it I can feel it thumping against the housing, is that normal? On another note: I'm going to change the trans filter and fluid. What trans fluid do you recommend? Thanks

This is what I have always used,

https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/automatic-transmission-products/maxlife-multi-vehicle-atf

Cool! That's what I've been using in my other GM vehicles. Thanks

Cliff96 wrote:

Thanks for the input. You really know your stuff on this car. The noise is gone now so I'm not sure if the evap solenoid is bad or not. When I put my finger on the top of it I can feel it thumping against the housing, is that normal? On another note: I'm going to change the trans filter and fluid. What trans fluid do you recommend? Thanks

I don't know if the evap solenoid thumping is normal. HOWEVER - the EVAP Purge Valve is run by pulse modulation, it is turned on and off several times a second. If yours is wack (technical term for malfunctioning) then find out why it went wack, fix that problem, and then replace the valve.

Code 1441 will set if there is a vac leak or an electrical fault (purge valve circuit grounded).

My WAG: if you top off your tank you can mess up the evap system. The GM system here is a bit resistant to that but topping off the tank while the car is running will kill it depending on the system's state at the time. The other thing I've heard of is bad hoses. To find out what caused the problem, check the wiring and hoses first. If you don't find problems (cracks, shorts) there (my guess is no better than yours) then replace the valves. The canister purge is under the hood, the vent valve is in the back by the tank, follow the lines you can't miss it.

All of this info is in the FSM, if you don't have a set yet -- word to the wise, get one.

As for the tranny fluid, most important is that Larry is Happy with MVTF. Secondly, I use Dexron VI, only because it's what the dealer has in the bulk tank... and the dealer has probably the only tech in the county who knows how to do flush and fill correctly. Valvoline says their MVTF is compatible with Dex VI, although MVTF is not licensed. I don't have an issue with their claims, and again, Larry's happy.

Dex VI is now a synthetic blend. My guess is the reformulation (it used to be full synthetic) was to improve profitability, as oil prices are relatively low ($40-$45/bbl). MVTF supposedly is still fully synthetic (natgas isn't that pricey either, less than $1.00/CCF; Henry hub is running around $3.00 per MMBtu).

Aaaaand... if you shop around, there isn't a pricing difference worth talking about between Dex VI and MVTF.

Albertj

Cliff96 wrote:

Thanks for the replies. I'm slowly getting things fixed on this car that I saved from the scrap yard.

I think you'll be glad you made the effort. I never see these cars anymore, and I think the 8th gen Riv looks really good compared to the new cars that have the oddest folds and creases all over them. The new cars are faster (well, most have caught up and the special ones are a lot faster), but they pay for it with unrepairable (or so I've heard) 10 speed transmissions and direct injection engines that have huge problems with carbon build up.

IMO the mid to late 90's and the late 60's/early 70's are the sweet spots for the automobile. Anything earlier is too primitive and lacks important safety features, like seatbelts and head rests. The middle stuff is compromised by emissions standards and the early OBD systems, and cars after the mid 2000's anyway are too complicated.

Of the mid 90's cars, many had poor quality interior plastics that have turned gooey - but only my center console button turned gooey. I sanded the goo off and repainted, now my interior is very close to new.

Many may disagree, but I still say the 8th gen Riv is one of the best classics to own.

I agree with your comments. I did get the car at a good price and the engine seems strong. Part of the fun for me is the restoration.

Do you suggest a power steering filter Albert?

albertj wrote:

It should be fine.  

You want to use PS fluid because it will take the heat better than say ATF. It gets real hot because most of the time the pump is spinning and the PS is doing NO motion, so the input becomes heat in the fluid. IIRC it consumes at least a few HP. A 1500W space heater equates to around the energy that would get you about 2 HP...

If it means anything to you, I got rid of the "chatter" in my PS by  swapping some of the fluid in my PS reservoir with Lucas. I think the whole system is maybe 1/4 Lucas fluid.  

carguy8888 wrote:

Do you suggest a power steering filter Albert?

albertj wrote:

It should be fine.  

You want to use PS fluid because it will take the heat better than say ATF. It gets real hot because most of the time the pump is spinning and the PS is doing NO motion, so the input becomes heat in the fluid. IIRC it consumes at least a few HP. A 1500W space heater equates to around the energy that would get you about 2 HP...

If it means anything to you, I got rid of the "chatter" in my PS by  swapping some of the fluid in my PS reservoir with Lucas. I think the whole system is maybe 1/4 Lucas fluid.  

Consider installing a filter if and when you install a replacement pump. I admit I've thought about it but in almost 400,000 miles... have not bothered...

I've been siphoning out dirty fluid with a turkey baster and putting in German car power steering fluid which really helped groaning in my power steering. My noise is 95% gone but the fluid is still dirty that's why I was thinking about the filter. Maybe

carguy8888 wrote:

I've been siphoning out dirty fluid with a turkey baster and putting in German car power steering fluid which really helped groaning in my power steering. My noise is 95% gone but the fluid is still dirty that's why I was thinking about the filter. Maybe

You would also need to/want to overhaul the rack, if your fluid is dirty, and with that replace 100% of the fluid; what you see is the detritus of abrasion of the seals. A filter kind of hides the problem. A complete fluid change "pushes the problem west (delays somewhat the day you have to do the overhaul).