Im at the point where stock suspension isnt going to keep me on the road for very long, the way i drive, so Im thinking about having some custom rear lateral arms made up eventually. The stock folded steel ones just wont due. Is anyone interested if i can get a race chassis company out here to fabricate a bunch of them. Im estimating probably $200. They will allow us to change the camber a little easier in the back, and should add a little more stability.

Are the suspension parts in the rear the same for 95-99? I know the struts are different, but I wasn't sure about the rest.

Yep, I know where you're talking about. I have one that's loose or something. The one on the passenger side rattles over bumps. Do they have bushings that wear?

I dont know what wears, I just dont like the cheap design.

old post but..did you come up with anything? on the 95 the rear control arm is a nicely done all aluminium. the fronts are steel. is your year the opposite?

I can't see how the rear lateral arms would help you change camber. I believe the camber is dictated by the two mounting points on the front of the trailing arm assembly (in '97 and up that's an aluminum piece).

The lateral link locates the hub side to side,...and can only effect minor changes in toe and the location of the wheels in the fender well.

There's probably a couple routes to go for stronger ones,...one thing is to box them in. They are "U" shaped,...and you can cut a strip of steel the width of the gap in the "U" and weld it onto the arm. Then paint it or have it powder-coated.

The next step might be to find firmer bushings that you can press into them.


But what I find is that 16" and even most 17" tires have many times more flex in their sidewalls than the lateral links possibly could. So unless you're going to 18" - 19" W-rated rubber,....messing wit the lateral links probably won't improve the feel much at all.

Or is the OP really concerned about breaking them?

Adjustable Heim Joint rod ends are available through the 4 Wheel Drive Truck market place and other places for not too much money, that will allow adjustments if necessary for toe.
Welded into round stock, will work.
Also, regular threaded bushing ends, less expensive, with poly bushings, welded into round or square stock will also work very well.

Hmmm.... maybe, duckstu.

What I don't know is if the steel in those suspension members is common nonstrutural (C 645), high strength of some sort () or if a pipe steel (such as A181) will do.

The suspension fabricators should know the answer to this. I do not; although the Lowe's stock steel would probably initially work and might well work long enough to suit my purposes, I am not certain if I want to assume the risk that it does/will not, not knowing the spec.

Do you happen to know anything about the strength specification of the stock steel pipe sold at Lowe's? I'm not saying you're wrong - your suggestion should work initially. I am not excited enough to do it, however, unless you can also show that the strength of the Lowe's stock tube meets the needed spec. Can you? I can't. I imagine that maybe fabbing these things out of a couple of the GM OE sway bars (they are hollow) might well work, if they will take the welding and a press-in bushing can be fitted. Might need to use different tube on the ends than the swaybar tube, depending on the bushings at least.

So anyway, duckstu, if you know something about the strength spec of that Lowe's tube - or can explain to me why it does not matter - please share it with the rest of us.

Albertj

Cold Rolled ASTM 4130 and you can't go wrong.
It's what they make roll bar's and many other things out of.
Common at a metal fab shop