FAQ: HVAC Blower motor only works part time, or stays on

Good advise, Jim. Come to think of it, the blower control module wouldn't be affected by impact, as it's a solid state device. Therefore, this is probably a connection or motor issue - if it's determined the impacts definately coincide with changes in status.

I actualy pulled mine from an Olds Aurora 1997, Paid $10 for it and now works great.

AA wrote:

1997-1999 uses the same part. The part is unique to only 97-99 Rivieras.

1995-1996 uses a different part, with is also used on 1992-1993 Rivieras, and these other vehicles:

BUICK LESABRE CUSTOM (1992 - 1996)
BUICK LESABRE LIMITED (1992 - 1996)
BUICK PARK AVENUE (1992 - 1999)
BUICK PARK AVENUE ULTRA (1992 - 1998)
CADILLAC ALLANTE (1992 - 1993)
CADILLAC DEVILLE (1992 - 1995)
CADILLAC DEVILLE TOURING (1992 - 1993)
CADILLAC ELDORADO (1992 - 1993)
CADILLAC ELDORADO SPORT 1993
CADILLAC ELDORADO TOURING 1993
CADILLAC SEVILLE (1992 - 1993)
CADILLAC SEVILLE STS (1992 - 1993)
OLDSMOBILE 88 ROYALE (1992 - 1996)
OLDSMOBILE 88 ROYALE LS (1992 - 1996)
OLDSMOBILE 88 ROYALE LSS 1995
OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY (1992 - 1994)
OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY ELITE (1992 - 1996)
OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY TOURING (1992 - 1993)
PONTIAC BONNEVILLE SE (1992 - 1996)
PONTIAC BONNEVILLE SSE (1992 - 1996)
PONTIAC BONNEVILLE SSEI (1992 - 1993)

Eh. Think of the Blower Motor like a Starter.....sometimes it needs a good kick in the ass to get it moving again

amaidendevil wrote:

i hit a bump to hard an ac quit blowing i kicked under dash and worked again and cut car off it wont work again so i kicked it works now well now i kick it and nothing so i take panel loose and hit blower with hammer it worked nice and strong so is my blower bad or something else

I had the same problem with my 95 in 2009 and purchased a Siemens blower motor from the local autoparts store for $50.

I reused the original rubber gasket and spliced the wires. The original motor was loaded with rust. I have had no problems since I replaced the old motor and have been able to keep my hammer in the toolbox.

lionfish wrote:

I have had no problems since I replaced the old motor and have been able to keep my hammer in the toolbox.

Hammers don't kill motors, people kill motors...

When hammers are Outlawed..........Only Outlaws will have Hammers.


This has been a public service announcement.

Well, somebody got it...

So last night i shut my car off, keys in my hand and heard the blower motor still running. pulled every fuse that had to do with the hvac, and still running. The only way to stop it was to unhooked the battery. Looking for some help on what to do.

Probably the blower control module, or possibly a stuck relay. See page 4 of this thread for a similar instance. See write-ups index at top for instructions on fixing this.

95rivy wrote:

So last night i shut my car off, keys in my hand and heard the blower motor still running. pulled every fuse that had to do with the hvac, and still running. The only way to stop it was to unhooked the battery. Looking for some help on what to do.

I had the exact same problem, theres 2 ways to shut it off, first theres a harness under the dash on the passanger side you can pull it'll be the one on the housing where the fan i. Second way is pulling the fuse, the rest of your fuses are under your back seat theres a big fuse for it and will stop it. Now to fix this go to a junk yard and pick up the HVAC resistor board or go pull one. The harness i just told you about goes to this small board, it should be dirt cheap at a junkyard and its in several different GM models. Or you can order one new from rock auto i beleave they are $150 though.

well i have heat again yeah..that was the easiest fix i ever did..got the resistor out of a Olds Aurora 1997..funny because it took longer for the junk yard to pull it out than me changing out mine..i think maybe 5-6 mins. thanks for all the info on how to fix my heater problem. i dont think i would have figured that one on my own...

that's what were here for buddy. don't forget to have your eprom chip reprogrammed for the 180 t-stat.

oh i didnt know you needed the eprom chip reprogrammed for that..where can i get that done?

While the PCM reprogram is nice, you don't absolutely need it to benefit from using a 180º t-stat. They are two different mods that help with performance in similar and in different ways.

95rivy wrote:

oh i didn't know you needed the eprom chip reprogrammed for that..where can i get that done?

AA is right. i had mine reprogrammed for the 180T and found it to work better than the 180T by itself. but i don't have to deal with the bitter NY winters so..but Sinisterperformance reprograms them,either send him the one in your car or have him make you one with a core charge. he can also tune the eprom for a CAI or anything else you can do to a 95 S/C.......

Hey guys,

I am having an issue with the '95 Riviera that my dad and I have. Out of the blue one day at work, I shut the car off, but the HVAC fan continued to run even with the ignition off. The fan was just blowing air in at the lowest setting that it could. I left the car sitting there with the fan still going for about 30 minutes, then went back out to check on it. The fan was still going, so I pulled the HVAC blower fuse under the rear seat. After putting the fuse back in and trying to replaicate the problem 3 more times (each time the fan continued to go after the car was turned off), I am having a hard time trying to figure out what the issue is.

Obviously something is out of whack and probably needs replacing. I'm assuming a relay is probably bad or is stuck or something. Does anybody have any insight that they can share? I'd appreciate it!

Keep it Riv.

- Zach

Do you think that an aftermarket accessory you may have installed was what led to this? That is, did you make some change and then this started? If not, have you checked the underhood and underdash wiring for evidence of rodents?

Albertj

This is on the 95, which is absolutely stock and is staying that way. Though, I did replace the driver's side window motor just a bit before this happened. So, that may be a good call! I haven't checked any wiring. I will do that tomorrow, but the possibility is slim to nil that any rodents got into the car, as we haven't had any rodents around the house in what seems like an eon. I'll take a look at everything tomorrow, though. I am thinking now that it may even be the blower module.

Blower module is a good idea to check..

By the way - - I currently have my HVAC head apart (on my '98) replacing the resistors for the fluorescent display. Why? Well, I re-soldered them some time (some years) back, which worked OK but the display started dimming again. Pulled the thing & opened it - not only has the coating started to flake off a couple of the resistors but the solder joint's gone bad again and a little of the PC board trace has delaminated in one spot. I got some same value (120 ohm) but higher wattage (5W) resistors that will fit and should take the heat such that I won't have to do this (thankless) job again. I was toying with putting LEDs in place of the eye-ease-green instrument bulbs but not sure about color or polarity.

Albertj

That happened to me. The BMCM fried and the blower would never shut off. Had to pull the fuse from under the rear seat until I replaced the BMCM.

Abaddon wrote:

That happened to me. The BMCM fried and the blower would never shut off. Had to pull the fuse from under the rear seat until I replaced the BMCM.

Any idea why it fried? Weather? Cussedness? Phase of the moon?

Abaddon wrote:

That happened to me. The BMCM fried and the blower would never shut off. Had to pull the fuse from under the rear seat until I replaced the BMCM.

Ditto. Odds are you just need a new blower control module. rockauto has them.

Thanks guys. I checked all wires (also discovered the plastic covering everything under the dash is not the same in the 95 as my 98, nor are the screws) in the engine bay and under the dash and everything looks good to me that I can see.

Albert, I actually fixed the HVAC display unit in my 98 about a year ago using the method that (I think) you did a write up on (may be mistaken) and it's worked great for me so far so props for that! I only replaced lights in it. It hasn't started dimming (yet, lol). But seeing as you're having problems with it, I guess I should be keeping an eye out for some issues.

I'm looking at Rockauto... I guess they're calling it the blower motor resistor?

Well here she is. When you're as big as I am, it's just a pain in the ass trying to get the 2 little screws out that are holding this thing in! The unit has no physical "damage," just a bit of dirt, and a black streak about .5 inches long, shown in the third pic: