Eric's calling you out alex...heheh

Karma wrote:

cop probally saw the engine and decided it was too awesome for a ticket.....

pretty much the guy felt sorry for eric

its getting repaired! it really isnt that bad...i've got more pics but wer're getting the back corner of another riv and using the outter wheel house and outter skin...still need to take some centerline measures though but things look promising!

also we'll take this time to redo the LF unibody for a much larger air filter opening by replacing alot of the slightly twisted sheetmetal with steel tube...maybe even a fender with a large air scoop to toss on for the track/etc lmfao

kool

Thank you jesus! Thank you lord!

that'll buff out

dude.....why did u scratch the car?! lol
have u found allready the replacement parts?
on my car the left side was crached tho.
are you goign to do all the rear fender change works urself?
cuting, welding and so on.
dont brake the polstering holders when u start to remove them. the russian guy had messed them..and becose of that they shake and make squeeking noise sometimes like someone forgot a duck inside door...or something...

well i hope u get it fixed soon

well eric's doing all the bitch work, i'll probably be doing the welding

so far so good the outter wheelhouse was damaged but te inner is fine

You guys should do the F-Body brake mod now while you have at least the one side opened up. Maybe some Rancho's or KYB's too. I know if I had a beast of an engine like this one, I'd wanna have some beastly brakes too. Are you sticking with black as the body color?

there's new struts at all 4 corners and as for the brakes thats staying stock as they just barely clear the 16x8 1st gen GP crosslaces...besides it had no problem locking em up at 120mph even with the sticky ass tires...

yeah it's staying black....still havent decided whether it'll be flat black or gloss...

well he's finally got the whole side fitting properly and gapped good....just a bit mre cleaning of the weld joins and that rear 1/4 can finally get welded on

he still hasent decided if it'll just be primer sealed flat black or if he's gonna go all the way with a two stage urethane....

Turbocharged400sbc wrote:

bingo

there's a bit on it earlier in the thread

basics
electrical

solid state NO relay for shift sol B reversal

97-99 80e trans (proper manifold pressure switch assmbly)

plumb in a press switch in the TCC relief passage or completly disable tcc in pcm file (as we have done-the junk trans will help me determine the tcc pressure switch workaround as the 80e doesnt have it and the 65e pcm is looking for it)

switch two terminals in the 65e pcm harness plug, also tap 80e second poer wire into the 65e connectors single 12v supply, leave tcc switch wire cut and left ungrounded.

now plug your oe 65e connector directly into the 80e connector (yes they are the same lol)

highly modify the 65e range switch for a pigtail and mating connectors to the oe harness. looks funky but works great

access to the gear ratio tables and other trans tables

mechanical

for riv's- two aurora axles (or just the inner tulips and shafts) bonnies and ultra's (G H C bodies) should be the same (dbl check)

for riv's the mount brackets that bolted to the 65ehd bolt right up to the 80e points (makes ya wonder whether gm loved the cost effectiveness of reusing the same part numbers as often as possible lol)

you can keep the shitty oe front motor mount but we chose to use neon rubber mounts and make new motor mounts down low and thereby giving full access to the belts al la w bodies

flexplate drilled to 80e 4 bolt pattern, purchace 4 special arp metric converter bolts twelve point ONLY! 6 pt wont let a socket clear the flexplate weight. (see pics)

drill the missing belhousing bolt hole in the middle front bellhousing boss of the 80e (right above the 3800 block starter boss)

small piece of angle iron drilled with 3 holes as the new engine to trans brace

two places on the trans case require it be ground for clearance as so far only PS headers have worked with the 80e and cleared the range selector shaft.

3800 modifications

the lower outter portion of the "bitch bolt" boss has to be cut off (you can still boltup to the 65e trans, but you can leave the bitch bolt in a few turns and remove/install the engine, kinda nice lol)

the 80e "bitch bolt" goes in from the drivers side towards the passenger side, and requires drilling and tapping for a grade 8 3/8thd bolt in the 3800 block at the centerline of the 80e bolt location (measurements are included in one of my pics)

the rear water jacket must be plugged with a 1/4npt plug and the kr sensor relocated to the upper block bolt hole of the oe 65e engine to diff brace (this hole is drilled and tapped to 1/4 npt and kr sensor threaded in

im working on finding an 4t80e for my riv....will any other axles work besides the auroa axles? Like cadillac axles? Or will only the auroa axles fit on a riv?

also, should I be looking for a certain gear ratio? I know these trans come in like 3 or so different final drive ratios.

hey what rims and size d/rs are those?

Turbocharged400sbc wrote:

well eric's doing all the bitch work, i'll probably be doing the welding

so far so good the outter wheelhouse was damaged but te inner is fine

like id let your fat clumsy ass near my car to actually do bodywork!!!!!!

all you got is a big f***** mouth

lol hay ya did pretty good on the welding....hey at least it looks good from 20feet away lmfao

he stopped the body work at this point and is focusing on tossing the new trans side cover on (cracked in the accident) along with the higher stall aurora (4.0L) converter....toss it back together with warrantied struts/other new parts and then as soon as it's all together and the new 295 50 16 MT DR's are mounted it's going to get driven and the alignment checked....
then it's back to bodywork and a nice flat/satin black primerjob....once he's there it's time for some real fun to begin

hell yea, now get some WOT in the car and another WOT with someone looking at the riv


come on, we cant keep getting enough

dreww wrote:

Turbocharged400sbc wrote:

bingo

there's a bit on it earlier in the thread

basics
electrical

solid state NO relay for shift sol B reversal

97-99 80e trans (proper manifold pressure switch assmbly)

plumb in a press switch in the TCC relief passage or completly disable tcc in pcm file (as we have done-the junk trans will help me determine the tcc pressure switch workaround as the 80e doesnt have it and the 65e pcm is looking for it)

switch two terminals in the 65e pcm harness plug, also tap 80e second poer wire into the 65e connectors single 12v supply, leave tcc switch wire cut and left ungrounded.

now plug your oe 65e connector directly into the 80e connector (yes they are the same lol)

highly modify the 65e range switch for a pigtail and mating connectors to the oe harness. looks funky but works great

access to the gear ratio tables and other trans tables

mechanical

for riv's- two aurora axles (or just the inner tulips and shafts) bonnies and ultra's (G H C bodies) should be the same (dbl check)

for riv's the mount brackets that bolted to the 65ehd bolt right up to the 80e points (makes ya wonder whether gm loved the cost effectiveness of reusing the same part numbers as often as possible lol)

you can keep the shitty oe front motor mount but we chose to use neon rubber mounts and make new motor mounts down low and thereby giving full access to the belts al la w bodies

flexplate drilled to 80e 4 bolt pattern, purchace 4 special arp metric converter bolts twelve point ONLY! 6 pt wont let a socket clear the flexplate weight. (see pics)

drill the missing belhousing bolt hole in the middle front bellhousing boss of the 80e (right above the 3800 block starter boss)

small piece of angle iron drilled with 3 holes as the new engine to trans brace

two places on the trans case require it be ground for clearance as so far only PS headers have worked with the 80e and cleared the range selector shaft.

3800 modifications

the lower outter portion of the "bitch bolt" boss has to be cut off (you can still boltup to the 65e trans, but you can leave the bitch bolt in a few turns and remove/install the engine, kinda nice lol)

the 80e "bitch bolt" goes in from the drivers side towards the passenger side, and requires drilling and tapping for a grade 8 3/8thd bolt in the 3800 block at the centerline of the 80e bolt location (measurements are included in one of my pics)

the rear water jacket must be plugged with a 1/4npt plug and the kr sensor relocated to the upper block bolt hole of the oe 65e engine to diff brace (this hole is drilled and tapped to 1/4 npt and kr sensor threaded in

im working on finding an 4t80e for my riv....will any other axles work besides the auroa axles? Like cadillac axles? Or will only the auroa axles fit on a riv?

also, should I be looking for a certain gear ratio? I know these trans come in like 3 or so different final drive ratios.

fittment wise the caddy axles look good they use the same subframe mounts and control arm's knuckles bearings etc, so c2c distances are likely the same

3.11 3.48 and 3.71 fdr gearing is all about your power range and where you want to use it...most guys i would suggest the 3.48 fdr. we went 3.71 so we can at least use 3rd gear through the traps and really hit the launch hard as traction allows.

the riv is together....just got the 295 50 16 MT et street drag radials mounted onto the 1st gen W body xlaces and they clear the strut and spring just fine....bit o rubbing lock to lock and the fender lips are gonna have to be cut....but fuckit....it's a racecar lol
gonna be driving it with the collage of body panels lol should make for an interesting track vid lmfao

IT"S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

going in for the alignment today.....then to break in the new MT's and burn off the old E85/70

and ready for action!



it's not a picasso but it's close lmfao

For crying out loud, be CAREFUL with it this time!!! Good luck, let's see her rip!

How long before we get some track times? lol


with those beefy tires you should be pulling crazy 60' times.

oh god...looks like ....well..don't relly know how to say but...guess its more for racing and kicking some arse on road & track! lol...

but still hope you get the whole car ower painted and those garden water hoses hiden under the front pumper :p

this is the owner>>>>>needed to get it runnin to enjoy it for the summer.....body work be damned. before the 295's that plumbing WAS the only indicator my car was fast

got lots of good VE data.....guestimated at ~3600-3700lbs 24* timing, E85, 14.7 afr TONS MORE fuel with the DP back exhaust removed lmfao the last cell of the VE table is now 1.94 .... gotta pour over the log data and see whats up with the shift points....
btw that first ticket was against an 04+ GP (NA)
only got one decent run with no PE MAF log....yup we're at 511gm/s for the last 8 rows lol the maf is way far off with the exhaust gone....gave up when it started sprinking (4 idle logs with it adding +16 ft's on each!
deffinatly getting it registered as a 95 this fall...time for aftermarket EFI....stock sux



poor dif lol