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 FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On

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stydel311
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:11 pm

This seemed like a good thread to post in rather than starting a new one.  I'm having some issues with my traction control system. The people that had my car before me bought it knowing the abs and traction control lights were on, and they replaced the brake control module to fix it (about 7 years ago at 100k). The car now has a little over 146,000 miles on it.  Last winter (bought the car in November of 2014, so this was the first winter) the tc and abs worked fine, however, this spring after the snow was gone the traction off light randomly came on while I was driving on the highway.  After that it would come on randomly and has slowly gotten to the point now where the light comes on everytime after the car is started.  Even if I spin the front tires on wet pavement before the light comes on (usually takes 5 minutes or so of driving) the traction control still doesn't work.  I stabbed the brakes on wet pavement and the abs came on fine.  I had a shop pull codes with a nice scanner and they got C1274, they found it means there is an issue between the magnasteer actuator and the brake control module.  The sheet they gave me said: "DTC C1274 can be set once the electronic brake control relay is commanded ON. A malfunction exists if a voltage drop greater than 2.5 volts exists across the Magnasteer actuator driver," and the possible diagnostics are to check the wires between the actuator and the controller and to check that the magnasteer actuator isn't bad.  IF the wiring is fine, haven't checked it yet, is it possible to check the actuator with a volt meter?  And if the actuator turns out to be bad are there replacements available?  I do have access to another Riviera in a junkyard if need be.
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stydel311
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Fri Aug 19, 2016 2:41 pm

stydel311 wrote:
About a month ago I was driving through town and the abs light came on, so now both the abs light and traction off lights are on (abs definitely doesn't work anymore). I pulled the abs light since I didn't have time to work on it. I'll get it scanned tomorrow but I'm wondering if anyone has any guesses as to what caused the abs to come on now. The original code was C1274 like stated earlier. Just to double check, is the EBTCM the computer mounted on the side of the strut tower on the drivers side?
Moving this from my other topic into this one. I got codes scanned an in addition to C1274 PMV Pressure Switch Circuit, now it pulls C1215 Suspect Valve Malfunction, C1256 Left Rear Outlet Valve Circuit, and C1237 Left Rear Wheel Speed is 0. I will go check the wiring to the left wheel sensor, are the other 3 codes indicators of a bad EBTCM?
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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Fri Aug 19, 2016 5:34 pm

stydel311 wrote:

stydel311 wrote:
About a month ago I was driving through town and the abs light came on, so now both the abs light and traction off lights are on (abs definitely doesn't work anymore). I pulled the abs light since I didn't have time to work on it. I'll get it scanned tomorrow but I'm wondering if anyone has any guesses as to what caused the abs to come on now. The original code was C1274 like stated earlier. Just to double check, is the EBTCM the computer mounted on the side of the strut tower on the drivers side?

Moving this from my other topic into this one.  I got codes scanned an in addition to C1274 PMV Pressure Switch Circuit, now it pulls C1215 Suspect Valve Malfunction, C1256 Left Rear Outlet Valve Circuit, and C1237 Left Rear Wheel Speed is 0.  I will go check the wiring to the left wheel sensor, are the other 3 codes indicators of a bad EBTCM?

Perhaps you could fix the wheel sensor and/or its wiring, clear all the codes, then see.

Also and hopefully it is not too late - change/flush the brake fluid. When it's brown it is moisture laden and the ABS does not like that. It should be no darker than clover honey (IMHO). You can use a synthetic fluid (may be sold as DOT 3, DOT 3/4 or DOT 4) to slow down the darkening. The brakes will be firmer with a DOT 4 fluid in. Crappy fluid will mess up the ABS/Trac system.
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stydel311
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Sun Nov 20, 2016 4:31 pm

I took the wheel off this afternoon, hooked up the volt meter and got up to 4 millivolts when spinning the wheel.  So, after assuming that the sensor in the hub is working, I followed the wire for it up to where it looms together with the wiring for the other side and goes into the connector clipped to the metal plates by the 2 other connectors.  I couldn't get both hands under the car to get the pin out of the top and take the connector apart to look at the terminals.  The wires coming out of these connectors loom together and go up through the floor to under the back seat, but after that they go into a loom of about 50 wires.  I did find that the ground under the back seat on the drivers side was nasty so I fixed that.  Currently still have the battery disconnected to make sure everything is reset.  I would like to get that connector that's clipped to the metal plate apart to see if there is a break in the wiring between the sensor and that connector, otherwise the break would be between there and (I'm assuming the sensors are hooked up to the EBTCM) the EBTCM.
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stydel311
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Mon Nov 21, 2016 9:29 pm

Wiring from sensor reading 0mph has continuity all the way up to the connector on the EBTCM, also has same resistance readings as the other side. Is it possible that there is something internally wrong with the EBTCM?
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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Tue Nov 22, 2016 3:28 pm

stydel311 wrote:
Wiring from sensor reading 0mph has continuity all the way up to the connector on the EBTCM, also has same resistance readings as the other side.  Is it possible that there is something internally wrong with the EBTCM?

Yep.

Abaddon please weigh in - but IIRC the FSM says swap in a known good EBTCM to test at this point. I do not know if the EBTCM can be opened and repaired in the field. I have heard of rebild services such as this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ABS-EBCM-COMPUTER-MODULE-REPAIR-KELSEY-HAYES-325-KH-325-BUICK-RAINIER-04-05-/282050213985?fits=Make%3ABuick&hash=item41ab80b861:g:8oMAAOSw6btXR2X9&vxp=mtr - but I have not had to use their (or any other) service so I can not say really.

Albertj
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chitown_riv98
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Sun Jan 01, 2017 1:45 am

stydel311 wrote:
Wiring from sensor reading 0mph has continuity all the way up to the connector on the EBTCM, also has same resistance readings as the other side.  Is it possible that there is something internally wrong with the EBTCM?

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have the same problem
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stydel311
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:04 am

chitown_riv98 wrote:

stydel311 wrote:
Wiring from sensor reading 0mph has continuity all the way up to the connector on the EBTCM, also has same resistance readings as the other side.  Is it possible that there is something internally wrong with the EBTCM?


Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have the same problem
I swapped in a different ebtcm from eBay yesterday that was supposedly working, I was thinking there was something wrong on the circuit board of the original ebtcm so that it wasn't getting a connection internally to the pin on the connector for the rear sensor. Both lights are still on however but I haven't had a chance to get it scanned to see if it's the same codes, so it could be getting sensor signal but the light is on for some other reason. I did open up the original one (it's a pain, it's all sealed together) and reflowed all of the solder joints but it made no difference.
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chitown_riv98
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Sun Jan 01, 2017 7:07 pm

stydel311 wrote:

chitown_riv98 wrote:


stydel311 wrote:
Wiring from sensor reading 0mph has continuity all the way up to the connector on the EBTCM, also has same resistance readings as the other side.  Is it possible that there is something internally wrong with the EBTCM?

That's too bad, I've been trying to get the light to shut off with our success my self and was getting tempted to replace the EBTCM


Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have the same problem

I swapped in a different ebtcm from eBay yesterday that was supposedly working, I was thinking there was something wrong on the circuit board of the original ebtcm so that it wasn't getting a connection internally to the pin on the connector for the rear sensor. Both lights are still on however but I haven't had a chance to get it scanned to see if it's the same codes, so it could be getting sensor signal but the light is on for some other reason. I did open up the original one (it's a pain, it's all sealed together) and reflowed all of the solder joints but it made no difference.
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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Mon Jan 02, 2017 10:08 am

I watched the following, and wondered if your test was really telling you what you think it was telling you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qap4m_FR2J0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0HrG7sujvA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujc6pjftZ_w

I don't know what voltage the brake computer is expecting to see, and I don't know if the wheel sensors are magnetic or Hall Effect. I don't know if you ran your test key-on or -off nor do I know if the test was with sensor in circuit or disconnected. So - I'm sorry but I can't help you more with this, don't have the data.

Albertj
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Abaddon
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Mon Jan 02, 2017 3:53 pm

Don't measure the mV of the WSS. Instead, measure the resistance of the sensor itself. It should be somewhere between 850 and 1350 Ohms. Any higher or lower, the WSS is bad.

BTW, the mV reading for a functioning WSS is 100mV.

Proper resistance of a length of wire is .4 Ohms, give or take +/- .1 for temperature.
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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:28 am

Abaddon wrote:
Don't measure the mV of the WSS. Instead, measure the resistance of the sensor itself. It should be somewhere between 850 and 1350 Ohms. Any higher or lower, the WSS is bad.

BTW, the mV reading for a functioning WSS is 100mV.

Proper resistance of a length of wire is .4 Ohms, give or take +/- .1 for temperature.  


Well, if the WSS is sending 4 mV when it's supposed to send 100mV...
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Abaddon
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PostSubject: Re: FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On   Tue Jan 03, 2017 12:10 pm

albertj wrote:
Well, if the WSS is sending 4 mV when it's supposed to send 100mV...

Correct. However, I'm willing to bet that the resistance is way off as well. I'm yet to see a WSS with the proper resistance reading and a wrong mV reading. Just easier to go right to Ohms instead of spinning the wheel.
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