Write-Up: Installing Intercooler (IC)

update:

Well, its still not done but getting closer.

1. Started off by replacing the AC condenser and changing the oil and all the antifreeze that got into it when the intake came off. We also got the water pump installed and the plumbing to and from the intercooler radiator run. For now, we are T-ing into the radiator overflow tank. Might get a separate tank for the IC if sharing the radiator overflow tank causes a problem. If anyone is aware of a problem it will cause, let me know.
And does anyone have an idea for how to fill this IC system with coolant? Just funnel it into a upper hose?

2. A problem that took up quite a bit of time was replacing the SC belt. The one intense sent me (for the G-body with 2.25" IC and 2.6-2.8" pulley) was 71" and was half an inch shorter than the one I already had on there (71.5"). The one that was already on there wouldn't fit as it, so obviously I didn't even try the new one. Bought a 72.5" one at autozone cause its all they had around that size. I got the 2.76" pulley put on there. I think any smaller would require snout machining.
We completely removed the the passenger side motor mount, but that didn't work. PITA. so we had to remove a spacer in the bracket that attached the motor to the motor mount. I will be pissed if we have to do it all over again for a new, longer accessory belt. Im sure we will, EVERYTHING has been the hard way with this project, everything.

got pics, will try to post them up.

might try to finish this up on friday:
still got:
1. fix fuel line and finish IC plumbing
2. replace alternator - possibly have to buy a new, longer belt
3. replace/reroute vac line setup
4. put car back together and tune!

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more to come, gotta get to work

I would buy it for that price.

Its going to perform very well. anyway.

Drew , Did you have any clearance issues with the install?

TonySmooth89 wrote:

Drew , Did you have any clearance issues with the install?

haven't tried to shut the hood yet, lol. Probably will have to remove that black hood liner on the underside of the hood though.

in the last pic in my previous post you can see how the rear IC core adaptor sits right behind the alternator bracket. this is causing some hose kinking issues.

and Eric, awesome run!

adjustable FPR with fuel pressure gauge electric sender


ac condenser carnage!


water pump installed


passenger side motor mount removed for new SC belt


new AC condenser in


cutting and smoothing for radiator plumbing


T off of radiator overflow tank into water pump


transmission cooler will sit in upper passenger side of AC condenser


half of plumbing done


new SC belt on


overflow tank line crimped off until plumbing complete


all for this week

great install man keep up the great work

How secure does the upper support/hood feel with those cross-bars gone from the front?

Nice work, Dreww. How many total radiators are you running on this car? The Bugatti Veyron has 10...

deekster_caddy wrote:

How secure does the upper support/hood feel with those cross-bars gone from the front?

dont really got it all back together yet, but I had already removed one of the crossbars for the trans cooler install and noticed no difference.

AA wrote:

Nice work, Dreww. How many total radiators are you running on this car? The Bugatti Veyron has 10...

just 4 (main radiator, AC condenser, tranny cooler, and new the IC radiator"

Thanks for moving this, didn't wanna steal ewolfs thunder.

got the alternator belt back on. could only get 2 of the 3 bolts back into it though. The lower bolt wouldn't line up. May have to make a bracket or something later. Belts seemed fine when we turned over the car, but gotta have it running to be for sure.

The plumbing is complete and the pump works and pumps great. Its wired to key hot so it will continue pumping even without the motor running.

Couldnt get the car to start. Think Im flooding it. I dont have my gf's laptop and didn't have the battery hooked up until today so I couldnt tune it. I knew we would get this far and I wouldnt have the tuner when I need it. I need to tune in the 42.5lb injectors. Im guessing with the extra flow and the fact that the 36lber's were very old and dirty (and probably lacking flow), Im flooding the motor. It ALMOST will start. My friend said all he could think of it 1. flooding or 2. a timing issue which is unlikely since we didn't touch it.

all vac lines lines and harnesses are reconnected. Just gotta look for leaks after startup and put the bumper back on.

will have pics later...gotta get to work again

You don't really need to tune the injectors yet, but you should change your IFR table before you go much further.

I think these cars have a 'clear flood' mode where if you hold full throttle and then crank they won't give any fuel. (Just be ready to let off!)

The IFR is what I need to modify. I only have one setting, so apparently I need to drop them by about 18%, or the difference in the flow rate of the 36lb. vs. 42.5lb.

hood liner removed


belts on - you can see where the bottom alternator bolt doesnt line up


plumbing of IC core






front transcooler mounted


also, the o-rings in one of the fuel lines gave out, causing a huge fuel leak. I believe the only fix is to buy a entire new plastic line from the fuelrail to the metal line. We did a temp fix with rubber fuel line. We thought it was the return line because it was the one that came off the rail, not the one going into the new FPR. but fuel shot out of the line when the key came out. Weird how the FPR is at the END of the fuel rails, instead of the beginning.

got it started finally. fuel pressure gauge doesnt work. im sure its the sending unit thats plugged into the new FPR.

also, the lower npt fitting in the ic radiator is leaking coolant.. so i gotta drain and then rethread it.

all in all minor problems. didnt even get a SES light. should be road testing on saturday.

got it done!!!

took it out for a test run with my mechanic....didn't do any WOT runs from a dig, but we did get on the highway and from about 70-80 I feathered into near WOT.
It still need some tuning, and running real rich, but the car flew too 120 and pegged the speedo. It was still pulling - HARD at 120 but I had to shut it down for my exit.

occasional SES light (whats code 1441) but it resets and doesnt come back for the entire drive.

I did see knock, like 2* max, and I was running it hard in 3rd gear. My fuel in the tank is about 3 months old and with that and needing to tune the fuel down, Im sure I can get rid of that little knock.

couple of pics.

incognito


the 2x4 is to keep the hood latch from flexing so the hood will close




and the new Daily driver - no more towing for the riv

Apparently I had the adjustable FPR hooked up backwards on my riv (doh!). When I got it setup right, my fuel pressure gauge began working and my fuel trims starting settling in much better. now they typically stay between +/- 5 like they should. The LTFT lock in at 0.0 as well at WOT.

I ran my friends impala a few time from a dig to see the performance difference. Before it took about an 1/8th mile to begin passing him. His takeoff is very fast, faster than a vette, and that 5,000+lb car doesnt lose traction like my riv does. This time, I was burning away from him after 100yrds. And from then on he was disappearing in my rear view mirror. VERY noticeable difference in performance.

My takeoff seems weak still, but Im sure I lost some low end power and I think I need a new throttle body - my xmas gift to myself. Ordering a northstar soon. an extra 10mm on the throttle body should help open up power faster.

ran it on a very cold night, about 35 degrees. Now ZERO kr and boost was about 13 psi on my mechanical gauge. The aeroforce usually reads higher but I was using my 2 parameters for LTFT and KR readings.

Awesome drew! How is the 4t60 taking all that extra power?

Nice work drew! Congrats!

TonySmooth89 wrote:

Awesome drew! How is the 4t60 taking all that extra power?

so far so good, knock on wood.

read alot about the 65's giving up but not the 60's. Probably because not many have tried to mod out a car as old as the one's with the 60's in it. Im hoping it holds up better than the 65's have though.

dreww wrote:

TonySmooth89 wrote:

Awesome drew! How is the 4t60 taking all that extra power?

so far so good, knock on wood.

read alot about the 65's giving up but not the 60's. Probably because not many have tried to mod out a car as old as the one's with the 60's in it. Im hoping it holds up better than the 65's have though.

Yeah i read something to the effect of the 4t60e being more stout but more prone to heat related failure. Hopefully its true.

TonySmooth89 wrote:

dreww wrote:

TonySmooth89 wrote:

Awesome drew! How is the 4t60 taking all that extra power?

so far so good, knock on wood.

read alot about the 65's giving up but not the 60's. Probably because not many have tried to mod out a car as old as the one's with the 60's in it. Im hoping it holds up better than the 65's have though.

Yeah i read something to the effect of the 4t60e being more stout but more prone to heat related failure. Hopefully its true.

My 4T60 got really hot when I got on it. I would recommend anyone who modifys a 96 and has no plans on upgrading to a 4T65E like I did get a Trans cooler.

I think if I had added one right after my rebuild it may have lasted longer.

already got the trans cooler. And even after repeated WOT runs from a dig, the trans didn't get nearly as hot as when I was towing with the riv.

Nice Truck!
More pics of the Riv and all the mods,please.

Bert

well I put the northstar on today. Not a huge difference, but noticeable.

the car is running real lean right now on idle and crusing, but doing pretty well a WOT. So I might have to do some tuning on the idle and cruising MAF.

I did some runs around the neighborhood from a dig and from like 10mph or so. Lots of spinning and the trans is starting to slip. I guess Im getting to that point but I should be okay as long as I dont do alot of drag racing from a dig, which I usually dont do. I saw 13+psi of boost in first gear. Im sure I would see 15+ in 2nd or 3rd.

i noticed the amount of room around the nose of the car, lots of room to mount a big a2a for turbo! that thought has also crossed my mind as well..... anyone done that here?

Noel have a look here https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/twin-charging-t1710.htm
oh and welcome to the site.