Gah, help with this Intense FWI! (Updated with lots of pics)

So I've taken everything apart, and I'm kinda stuck.

The IAT sensor... that's that little electronic plug that's stuck in the stock airbox, right?

Because apparently I'm supposed to use this new sensor mount, which is this odd looking cylinder sticking out of the coupler. The new IAT hole does not go through to the tube, I imagine I'm supposed to drill it out so that it does.

I was thinking of installing this tube through the stock airbox, to keep my stock look (it will take a lot of dremmeling to get the tube through that bottom part.

Then, maybe I could use the stock IAT hole again, but it wouldn't give the "correct" reading for my FWI tube, right?

Anyway, I'm working on this while daylight is going away, so respond as soon as possible. Here's the picture of the IAT plug and the new coupler that came with the Intense FWI. The engine bay pic shows where the IAT is, and where it "needs to go" - obviously that little cord ain't stretching that far. Anyway, take a look.

Would this help?

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/for-sale-f22/oem-modified-iat-sensor-10-shipped-t866.htm#9131

Well, I need to get this together tonight. The idea, however, is great...

I'm still wondering - if I took the IAT cord out of the split loom if it would reach upward towards a downward-pointing cylinder.

But Aaron...

Do you think it absolutely needs to be installed to where the air is flowing?

What I mean is, would a higher temperature reading cause a loss in performance?

Like I said, I'm trying to route this tube through the stock airbox... the only thing the stock airbox would be there would be for appearance.

Hm... and what epoxy would hold up in an engine bay?

I need a definite recommendation for this one....

Buapo wrote:

Hm... and what epoxy would hold up in an engine bay?

I need a definite recommendation for this one....

JB weld

RTV silicone black

Well, I've used RTV - that would hold, and wouldn't go bye-bye in the engine bay? If so... yay.

Oh, and I decided against.using the stock airbox idea, mainly because the bend is a tad too sharp, and it's even more of a pain in the ass than getting that damn 9" filter to fit into the fenderwell! When people said that it's a tight fit - they weren't fucking kidding! I think the benefit of the 9" cone is going to be much greater than the time I would have saved with, say, a 7" filter.

And, I'm really proud of this - I figured out a way to mount the troublesome "fenderwell horn" so you can still use it, and free up the space for the cone filter (and the 9" one at that).

Here's some pics:

Here you can see the horn tucked away in it's stock position.


And here's where I re-mounted it. It's facing to the "right" rather than down.

The wire for the horn was nice and long, so I just pushed it towards the front bumper where there's some extra room. I used the SAME MOUNTING HOLE that the horn was mounted vertically and used it to mount the horn horizontally behind the stock location.

I should also add that I took pliers to bend the mounting tab a little bit so it would seat flush against the... uh, hole.

The result - I still have a nice horn! I thought the "half-horn" was really wimpy - sounded like a Honda or something.

GP's and Bonnies don't have the same iat shape and therefore they fit great in that FWI hole on the coupler.

Going to shave yours or do you need one? I'm sure I've got one laying around that could fall into the mail for you.

The idea is to put the IAT sensor where it senses the actual ambient air temp that's coming in the intake. Too close to the TB can make it soak up heat from the engine. Too far away (outside the intake), it's unrealistic because the air coming into the filter could be a different temp. I think the ideal spot is as close to the air filter as possible, doesn't matte if up or downstream, but close to it. It does not even need to be mounted tightly. I've seen some installs where the IAT sensor just lays next to the filter in the air box.

I've seen JB weld crack before, but have never seen RTV fail as long as it's used as an adhesive or seal, and not as a structural support. RTV silicone has very high resistance to temperature extremes. I used it as exhaust sealant on my header pipes and crossover!

I agree a little with locating it where the correct temp air is... The air going into the TB is right before the TB. Plus..the pcm learns where it can add or subtract timing etc based on learned info.

not sure when it will be back in stock but ZZP has a 18" extension for the IAT
http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=184

also this is a little off topic, but how does this work?
http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=183
i didnt think the IAT could change timing :/

I thought that was the whole purpose of the IAT sensor - more aggressive timing at cooler intake temps. That's the theory behind putting a resistor on the IAT sensor lead, anyway.

So much for a quick and easy install.... it doesn't help that I lost the same tools over and over again.

I decided to say screw it and just cut off that coupler. It's just rubber, after all, so who cares.

I just want this thing together, I'm sick of looking at it....

Funny you should have this thread up. Today I made up my own little 4" experiment with some (don't look) dryer vent. Seeing if I like the upgraded ductwork over my 3" FWI. I'm having trouble justifying the value of FWI in this engine compartment. If you look to the right of the ABS head, the 'fenderwell' is just drawing it's air from the engine compartment anyhow (albeit near the bottom of the engine compartment).

I'm starting to think behind the headlight is as good as anywhere else, plus it gives you the option of removing the headlight assy at the track for easy ram air.

It's finally on... good lord, what an ordeal.

I'll get some pics up really soon.

Alrighty, here's the pictures.


Here you can see that I cut the grommet off there, and got the Riviera's IAT sensor in there. I took off the little gasket that was on the IAT, because that allowed the two "hooks" to do their job holding the IAT inside the tube.


In this pic you can see the IAT. It should be noted that this picture is a preliminary mounting... it popped out later on, so I took that gasket off which helped it stay in there, PLUS I used the silicone everyone was taking about to seal it in there. It's nice and solid now.


This picture illustrates the biggest problem I had - getting the damn hose to turn like I wanted it to. With the kit as is, those aluminum couplers sticking out are too long to get the bends that you need. We don't have any good cutting tools here, so I had to use a metal hacksaw and trim them down by hand - pain in the ass for sure, but it worked.

I should mention that I got sick of taking pictures of my progress because I was getting pissed off. Even after a quick "fitting," I noticed that the IAT plug wire was not long enough. Well, it was, but it was tighter than hell. So I went to the hardware store and bought the little splices, some 18 stranded wire, and extended it myself. Wrapped the whole thing in electrical tape, so it should be good - looks stock, too.


Here it is installed, after all the cutting, silicone-ing, and wiring. I was having a hell of a time getting that intake tube to stretch over the aluminum coupler, so I put a little K&N filter oil on the inside (not much, I used a paper towel to get most of it... it was barely oiled but just enough). It slipped on, I clamped it down and that was it.


There's the bastard filter - it really takes up all the room in there! I'm glad I've got the 9" in there.... it makes me feel all happy and warm inside. The rubber lip of the filter actually comes up THROUGH the intake hole! I was surprised at this.

The final step was cutting the intake tube again, which was scary because I didn't want to screw that up. Worked perfectly.

Overall, I'm pleased. It wasn't designed for the Riviera, and it shows - but with hardly ANY adjustments, Intense could easily market this for the Riviera.

I'll say this - I highly recommend their intake tubing, it's fantastic - as far as the kit goes, I'd say it would be better to assemble everything else yourself. It will take longer, but you'll save more money.

If anyone has any questions about this, lemme know. And thanks for everyone's help, once again!

I should also mention that I took it out for a ride, and it's strange - I can actually "feel" the car breathing better! Everything, the sound, the performance increase, it all feels nice and solid.

Buapo wrote:

I should also mention that I took it out for a ride, and it's strange - I can actually "feel" the car breathing better! Everything, the sound, the performance increase, it all feels nice and solid.

Wait until the pcm learns about the new incoming air. You won't want to go back to a gutted air box. There is a big difference between a gutted air box and a CAI or FWI. Enjoy the new power and sound.