Hi i goy my 95 riv modded so that the seats in the back can fold down while i bump. i got 2x12" rockfords p2s and 2x480watt alphsioc amps with a pioneer head unit. It sounds much better now that the seats folded down but it also sounded nice 2 when the seats couldent fold down.

i finally found a set of subs and amp for my car. i bought them used, but they sound great!
2 10" kicker solo-baric's in a closed & carpeted box, plus a Memphis 300RMS 2 channel amp. they are the older round kickers, not the square ones but...
all that for $100 i cant complain.
i just finished setting it all up and wiring it all myself. PITA to squeeze wires under the door sill. the stupid plastic wouldnt pull off so rather than break it, i just shoved the turn-on lead and rca's under it. i also had to drill out some more behind the head unit to make the RCA plugs fit, but its all back together now and it hits HARD! i listen to all kinds of music, but i drive to mostly rap, these subs were long over due.
cost me $140 out the door with wires and all.
with everything i have done to my sound system i have spent almost $450 (new infinity reference 5 1/4's, new kenwood mp2/ipod/xm head unit, new alpine type S 6x9's, and used kicker subs and amp) and installed everything myself. but the actually MSRP of everything adds up to a little over $1000 minus w/e it would have cost to get it installed by "pros".
too bad i cant buy gasoline on ebay
so i think my system is complete, time to make the car faster to offset the extra weight of the subs

Matthew

Got 2 12 inch Kicker CVX's in the box with a 3000 watt Kole @1 ohm

http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/11/61/04/23/dsc00216.jpg
http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/11/61/04/23/dsc00217.jpg
http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/11/61/04/23/dsc00218.jpg
http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/11/61/04/23/dsc00219.jpg
http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/11/61/04/23/dsc00220.jpg
http://i21.servimg.com/u/f21/11/61/04/23/dsc00111.jpg

Dave

The door sill has some screws in it that you have to remove. If you take a knife and slide it under the cover in the middle it should pop up. Then just slowly go down and keep popping it out. Be careful because the piece can be fragile. You will see the screws under the cover. Do you have any pictures of the install?

You have alot of amps in that thing

it's official, the trunk of my car will have nothing but JL Audio products. i already have one 500/1 v2 powering 2 12' power acoustics, thats ok for right now. come jan '08 im going to get a another 500/1 v2 and 2 12w7. of course the trunk will have to be laid out wit dynomat but oh well. i'll post pics once i have it installed.

JL Audio is the way to go. Thats what I run.

Well, I'm getting a $100 gift card for Best Buy and I figured I'd improve my sound system. Right now I have Alpine Type S all around with the stock head unit. I wanted to get an amp to power them and was wondering what you guys would suggest. I don't want to spend too much over the $100 and I'm pretty sure I'll get a couple more gift cards to there anyway. What do you guys recommend?

im new to the audio world but i have been very pleased with my Memphis amp which is powering my 2 kicker 10's. puts out plenty of power and hits harder than many amp/sub combos that have double the wattage.
they are pretty cheap and may not win in the looks department, but they seem to back it up with great output and quality.
are you getting a mono amp and splitting it up, or a multi channel for each speaker?

"Classes of Amplifiers
People sometimes assume that for every portion of the input signal there is corresponding 100% output from the amplifier. However, power dissipation (in the form of heat) and distortion of the audio signal are two key factors in determining the efficiency of an amp. The design of an amp's circuitry determines the class of operation of an amplifier, and each class has its own performance characteristics.

* Class A amplifiers are desirable for the high quality of their sound, but, because of the configuration of its transistors, a pure class A amplifier is inefficient and runs very hot. This is because even when there is no audio signal, the output transistor(s) always have current running through them. The current flowing through the output transistor(s) (with no audio signal) causes the amp to heat up unnecessarily, and "waste" input energy. Most car amplifiers that boast "Class A" circuitry are really Class A/Class AB hybrids.
* By far the most common car amp design, Class AB amplifiers also allow current to run through the output transistors when there is no audio signal, but at a much lower level. A class AB amplifier runs cooler, and therefore, more efficiently than a class A, with low distortion and high reliability.
* Class D amplifiers use output transistors as switches to control power distribution — the transistors "turn off" when there is too much voltage across them. Class D amps boast higher efficiency, produce less heat, and draw less current than traditional Class AB designs. Class D amplifiers produce higher distortion than AB designs due to the high-speed switching on and off of the transistors, but this distortion occurs at high frequencies that are typically removed by a low-pass filter.
* Class T amplifiers provide the sort of sonic advantages of conventional Class AB designs, combined with the high power efficiency and low heat production of a Class D design. Class T amps are able to generate 2-4 times more power than a comparably-sized Class AB amp."
from- http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_glossary.html#class

thats to bad ur only going thru best buy i could tell you about a great top secret audio spot that sells at whole sale prices

Do you listen to music or rap?