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 Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps

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c0reyl
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 6:15 am



So I just got this Soundstream TA1 3000d

3000 watt RMS at 0.5 ohms and I have two Alpine Type R subs wired at 4 ohms each both wired into the amp at 2 ohms with about 1400 watts RMS from the amp. Why would I lose 600 watts RMS when the subs can handle 1000 watts RMS each just fine? Even a little more in the sealed box they are in?

The answer I guess is because a: it's less stress on the subs and amp (but you need an insanely powerful amp to push high power at higher impedance) and and I think some member on here told me it's more efficient do to having a higher BL (motor force)

Now I made this entire sound system for sound quality more than spl so I could care less about the extra few hundred watts.

And it doesn't seem much louder than my old ported box set up with two alpine type e and a 400 watt alpine monoblock amp, but the type e have like 91 db efficiency vs my 87db now, and ported boxes are louder.

But after hearing this setup.. I could never go back to a ported box lol. These subs are the lowest hitting subs I've ever heard in a vehicle.

My mirror fell off, and then my window and sunroof relay started unplugging itself lol

I don't know where the -3db cutoff is, or how many decibels it is but it definitely has decent response lower than human hearing. I'm not saying it's going to have a -3db of under 20hz that would he retarded. Not only that but a 20hz wavelength is 56.6 some feet and the vehicle isn't big enough to take advantage of it really. But I've felt bass I couldn't hear for sure.



My question is: does our 25hz chassis frequency have anything to do with why these seem to pound so deep? The only other sub I've ever heard that hit this deep was my Velodyne ULD18 which had a -3db cutoff of just 13hz. But I can't really discern because my car subs pound a lot harder.

I really don't get it. I mean logic dictates that there's no way a car sub in a car this small should ever hit that low?

but yeah if you want sound quality and hitting deep? It's all about build materials of the subwoofer, a good sealed box and the best darn quality amp you can find in my opinion. Soundstream claims a frequency response of 10-220 hz well under 1% total harmonic distortion 3000 watts RMS at 0.5 ohms.

Even though my mid bass is lacking in the doors, and my component speaker amp is garbage, and the DAC quality in my pioneer head unit is garbage, and the timing is all screwed up by a miniscule amount in the front because the speakers aren't coax and there's something like a 4ms lag between the swivel mount silk dome tweeters and the front woofers... and I still consider it a crap sound system until all of that is rectified... I have yet to hear a better sounding car sound system.

probably because most people that put money in their system are idiots.

oh! I need a lot of dynamat meow!

And I might take out the rear deck again it's rattling like hell lol and I need silicone on the rear license plate, and my trunk rattle sounds like a 90's beater Honda!

I don't know if it's even possible to make it rattle free frown

Edit:


lawl
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stan
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 6:05 pm

Wiiiiiiiiiii....
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c0reyl
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 6:10 pm

Lol what does wiiiii mean?
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jbird
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 10:57 pm

I'm still a newbie but I've seen enough of Stan's "Wiiii's" to know that

it's a good thing.
Seems like Stan approves/is maybe excited/& is saying, "Go Corey".

Or, something.. happy

Jbird
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c0reyl
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:04 pm

Sweet! Haha I gotta clean up the car bad before I take a shot of the sound system in the trunk.

I've had pneumonia for 3 months I just found out moved back a thousand miles and my interior is a mess!

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stan
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:20 pm

stan wrote:
Wiiiiiiiiiii....

just like the video game Wii ,only my version is Wiiiiiiiiiii hahaha....
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c0reyl
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:22 pm

My mirror is a nunchuck wiimote!
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stan
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:24 pm

YES...wiiiiiiiiiiiiii
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c0reyl
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:28 pm

Lol are you sober :o

But it was still funny
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:34 pm

ofcourse NOT Corey....drinking here Budweiser $8 a bottle 40oz hahaha at A'Dam Good Sports Bar haha lots of hot girls
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c0reyl
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:36 pm

Lol BRB gonna show up and bring music to the party and make a parking lot rave :p

I've always wanted to do that lol
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:45 pm

Corey bro......you coming? haha
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:47 pm

Lolol if it was close maybe,

But I've had all this codeine cough syrup lol, not just cause I wanted purple drank but I actually need lol Lolol

The sizzurp! !

Man I wish I was at a bar instead of home.
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Fri Jan 02, 2015 12:04 am

ohhhh Hooters and all the bars likw that haha
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Fri Jan 02, 2015 12:05 am

Hooters has good wings man!
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:45 pm

Anybody have a suggestion on how to power a second amp? I'd really like to just splice into the existing power wire, but the question is where do I do it?
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Mon Feb 23, 2015 10:48 pm

Use a distribution block like this one:

http://ebay.com/itm/391049804805

Feed your amps power wires into the smaller inputs. Run the larger output wire to the battery +. Use a connector like this one to tap in to the + terminal:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F6P98Q/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_1?refRID=0ZKE91F3SD9JKJSCZJYN

You'll need some big guage wire and ring terminal for the battery connection.

_________________
'98 SC Riviera 268k miles 298 HP/370 TQ 0-60: 5.79s ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 4087 lb 20.1 avg MPG Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley AL104 plugs 180 t-stat FWI w/K&N 1.9:1 rockers OR pushrods LS6 valve springs SLP headers ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts MaxAir shocks Addco sway bars UMI bushings GM STB Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus SS lines Brembo slotted discs DHP tuned Aeroforce Hidden Hitch


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matt270avian
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Mon Feb 23, 2015 10:52 pm

AA wrote:
Use a distribution block like this one:

http://ebay.com/itm/391049804805

Feed your amps power wires into the smaller inputs. Run the larger output wire to the battery +. Use a connector like this one to tap in to the + terminal:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F6P98Q/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_1?refRID=0ZKE91F3SD9JKJSCZJYN

You'll need some big guage wire and ring terminal for the battery connection.

I've already got the battery connection, remember bonk

Thanks for the distribution block idea though. I like it. I was also toying around with the idea of getting some of the big power plugs off of an industrial UPS and using them as quick disconnects for power/ground, and then pulling off some molex connectors or something for the remote and speaker wires.
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AA
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Tue Feb 24, 2015 7:54 am

Oh yeah! I knew that went somewhere.

_________________
'98 SC Riviera 268k miles 298 HP/370 TQ 0-60: 5.79s ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 4087 lb 20.1 avg MPG Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley AL104 plugs 180 t-stat FWI w/K&N 1.9:1 rockers OR pushrods LS6 valve springs SLP headers ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts MaxAir shocks Addco sway bars UMI bushings GM STB Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus SS lines Brembo slotted discs DHP tuned Aeroforce Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO 49k miles 0-60: 4.8s 16.9 avg MPG Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
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