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 Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps

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matt270avian
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matt270avian


Name : Matt
Age : 28
Location : Frederick, MD
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Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 EmptyMon Feb 23, 2015 9:45 pm

Anybody have a suggestion on how to power a second amp? I'd really like to just splice into the existing power wire, but the question is where do I do it?
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AA
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AA


Name : Aaron
Age : 46
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Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 EmptyMon Feb 23, 2015 10:48 pm

Use a distribution block like this one:

http://ebay.com/itm/391049804805

Feed your amps power wires into the smaller inputs. Run the larger output wire to the battery +. Use a connector like this one to tap in to the + terminal:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F6P98Q/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_1?refRID=0ZKE91F3SD9JKJSCZJYN

You'll need some big guage wire and ring terminal for the battery connection.

_________________
'05 GTO 6.0L • 6-spd • 95k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26

'95 Celica GT 2.2L • 5-spd • 165k miles • 0-60: yes

'98 SC Riviera • 281k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180º t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch

^^^ SOLD ^^^ frown

'70 Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe 455cid • 116k miles
^^^ SOLD ^^^ frown
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matt270avian
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matt270avian


Name : Matt
Age : 28
Location : Frederick, MD
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Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 EmptyMon Feb 23, 2015 10:52 pm

AA wrote:
Use a distribution block like this one:

http://ebay.com/itm/391049804805

Feed your amps power wires into the smaller inputs. Run the larger output wire to the battery +. Use a connector like this one to tap in to the + terminal:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F6P98Q/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_1?refRID=0ZKE91F3SD9JKJSCZJYN

You'll need some big guage wire and ring terminal for the battery connection.

I've already got the battery connection, remember bonk

Thanks for the distribution block idea though. I like it. I was also toying around with the idea of getting some of the big power plugs off of an industrial UPS and using them as quick disconnects for power/ground, and then pulling off some molex connectors or something for the remote and speaker wires.
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AA
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AA


Name : Aaron
Age : 46
Location : C-bus, Ohio
Joined : 2007-01-13
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Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 EmptyTue Feb 24, 2015 7:54 am

Oh yeah! I knew that went somewhere.

_________________
'05 GTO 6.0L • 6-spd • 95k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26

'95 Celica GT 2.2L • 5-spd • 165k miles • 0-60: yes

'98 SC Riviera • 281k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180º t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch

^^^ SOLD ^^^ frown

'70 Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe 455cid • 116k miles
^^^ SOLD ^^^ frown
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
DeepFrozen
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Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 EmptyTue Oct 22, 2019 4:22 am

I've read this topic through a year or two ago, but I can't remember if my question was answered in any way.
And the question is: can a subwoofer shatter the rear window? And if yes - how much power/dB/ooomph does it take? I mean, of course there are some extreme subwoofers that can shatter almost anything, but should I worry if I use just some "normal" subs?
Recently I went up from a 12" Kicker CompVR (400 Watts) to an S12L5 Kicker Solo-baric (600 Watts). Both subs are in their original vented boxes, although sometimes I seal the port with a plug to get kinda sealed enclosure sound. I never push my Solo-baric to its limit fearing it may shatter my rear window, and I just can't afford that. I see, that Corey had 1400 Watts fed to his subs, but still...
I've got a great deal on S12L7 (750 Watts RMS) Solo-baric. Should I stop worrying about my rear window and go for an L7 and crank it up?
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albertj
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Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 EmptyTue Oct 22, 2019 10:23 am

Can a subwoofer shatter the rear window.  My guess is possibly.  I will explain.

Auto windows in the USA are tempered glass.  The glass is tempered by annealing it, which involves making it to it's final shape then heat treating it such that stresses are locked into the surfaces.  This is why when you look at auto windows with polarized sunglasses, at just the right angle, you can see a sort of checkerboard or lattice.

Tempered glass is tough but relatively easy to break if you know how.  There are two easy ways to do this.  One is to scratch the glass then impact it.  Scratching puts a big enough flaw in the stressed skin layer of the glass that an impact will cause it to shatter.   Not so easy, a third way, is to have an imperfectly tempered piece of glass put into the sun.  Thermal expansion will bust the glass.  Thing is it's not easy to tell upon cursory visual inspection with the unaided eyes if a piece of tempered glass is so flawed as to be susceptible to breaking merely by being set in the sun.  But it happens.

So, to bust a car window with a subwoofer should not be that tough, you just need very low frequency program material, a loud enough amplifier, the glass mounted such that low frequency energy is reflected not absorbed, and scratches or other flaws in the glass (very fine scratches will do, thank you).

How much power does it take?  It depends on the size (including thickness) and mounting of the glass, the content and  accuracy of the sound program material -- If you do a Google search on "subwoofer broke my rear window" you will see examples.  I have not (nor do I care to) verified those examples.

For more technical information about this consider reading articles you find with a web search "tesla destructive sound wave experiments."

As for such equipment in a car, in my limited experience I have not come across any case in which someone with a car so equipped has been found not-at-fault for a collision.  The opposing insurance company, or the other driver's lawyer(s),  will argue that installation and use of such equipment isn't standard or optional, and interferes with the operation of the vehicle by occupying the drivers' attention and making so much sound such that auditory information needed for safe operation of the vehicle is masked if not obliterated.  It is similar reasoning as to why DVD players in cars aren't (well, are not supposed to be) visible to the driver when playing program material.

Albertj


Last edited by albertj on Wed Oct 23, 2019 9:43 am; edited 1 time in total
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DeepFrozen
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 EmptyWed Oct 23, 2019 8:04 am

Oookay... So, the shorter version of the answer is "yes, it can, but..." smile
In fact, I feel more confident now, but I'll inspect my rear window anyway, just in case.

Thank you, Albert!


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Rickw
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Name : Rick
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PostSubject: Re: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps   Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps - Page 20 EmptyWed Oct 23, 2019 9:57 pm

WOW, This thread made a jump from 2015 to NOW 2019. Good to see that happening.

Even more impressive is the 2 Links Aaron posted for amplifier hook ups are still alive and well.

Don't normally see the same vendors that posted 4 or 5 years ago still selling the same components today.

When I calculated what I needed for the first installation of Amps, Speakers, Cabin size in Cu.Ft. and the head unit I didn't have the luxury of the internet to help. So it took a lot longer to find the correct components and in some cases use products that were made for something else but worked.
And what I did find at a few High End auto sound shops was good advice and some expensive bits and pieces.
But what I did find that even though I hadn't purchased amps, speakers or custom subwoofer enclosure, that these guys would stop what they were doing to answer the technical questions that ultimately caused me to buy some needed components from each of them along with Crutchfield for the head unit even though I wasn't going to use the radios amplifier. Everything coming out of the back of the head unit was in the form of RCA wiring.
Was able to get 10ft long cables up to 20ft long cables that were no name products from an electronics shop that I bought stuff from all the time, so I didn't have to pay the Car Audio shops a boatload of money for the same thing. Just cause they some brand name stenciled on them didn't make them any better than what I could get for a fraction of the cost.
Anyway, I'm thinking of upgrading the sound system in my latest GM vehicle that has a Bose system with a small sub woofer and amp mounted somewhere in the center console.
For a stock OEM system it sounds very good. But I know some upgrades will make it sound even better. Still have 2 Amps, one is a four channel and the other is a one channel for the sub woofer that I also have. It's a 12" woofer in a custom made box for the correct volume based on the MFG requirements.
All I need to do now is look into replacing the Bose Speakers with something better. It should be fun dipping my toes in the water again.
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