Vato's 95 Riv

ok then i guess its normal. thanx
now i noticed this really weird thing, somethings making a noise in the back of the car even when its off. any ideas what could it be?

Not unless you specify what the noise sounds like.

There's another thread on this editboard about this topic, it turned out the noise was the air compressor for the rear shocks.

In Europe the Nivomats are popular self-leveling rear shocks. GM tendes to use regular shock absorbers with a rubber bladder - the chamber formed by the moving, hollow metal part of the shock casing and the rubber bladder can be pressurized with air to level the rear suspension and add somewhat to the damping.

When you turn the RIviera ignition key off, the car's computer lets the air out of this system, then turns it on to fill it to a standard pressure, I think it's 14 PSI or some such. Then it will shut down and stay off until you start the car with the key.

A car equipped with Nivomat self-leveling suspension will make no such noise.

There is a BIG difference in the price of a pair of Nivomats (when they finally quit after 100,000 miles or so) and a pair of the GM air shocks. Good replacements for the GM shocks cost around $60 US the pari ("Monroe" brand by Tenneco). Replacements for Nivomats are much more than that, I think 5-10x the price but don't quote me.

Albertj

yeah thats the sound i hear from mine. i just asked a similar question the other day because it comes on when the car is turned off meaning its letting out the air in the shocks.

ok thanx a lot. i guess its nothing serious, ill deal with it after the sensor problems. im having it checked out right now at a GM center (I found one like 30mins from where i live so thats really good news for me)

something makes noise near the engine, they told me "the main plate" belt is on is making that noise (im not sure what you call that) the one engine turns both belts with, right under the pomp. ill post a pic this evening, if you get what im talking about could you tell me what its called and how much will it cost me to get that shipped to republic of georgia or is there any other cars that use that same "plate"?

Many times that noise is actually the idler pulley bearings. They are known to go bad after 100,000 miles or so. We call it the 'Accessory' belt versus the other one, which is the 'supercharger' belt. Your safest move is to replace all of your idler pullies if you haven't yet.

not sure what "the main plate" means - but....

1) there is one belt for the supercharger, and another for the accessories (the alternator, and the power steering).
24504257 is the belt for the alternator and steering pump for '95
24503551 is belt for waterpump,a/c and supercharger, also '95

2) if you measure the length of the belt you should be able to get it locally by specifying length and number of ribs, or simply taking the belt off and taking to an auto parts store and tell them to sell you a new one like it. They do not stretch much in use, and most parts stores have a way to measure the belts. If in doubt get one maybe 1 cm or so shorter. Or use those part numbers to find them on the internet. For instance, on www.ryderfleetproducts.com that number will bring up a Dayco Polycog belt #5060605. I use Dayco Polycog belts - they are more durable than the standard belts. Only you should be aware that they whine (at least mine do) but not loud.

3) I think is more likely that you have an "idler pulley" making the noise than one of the belts. What you do is take a socket wrench and move the tensioner so that the belt can be slipped off the pulleys. Turn all the pulleys by hand to find the squeaky ones. Maybe it is the alternator or water pump making noise, or maybe just one of those do-nothing pulleys. Anyway - you may have to spin them not just turn them a little to find the ones that make noise. If it is a tensioner pulley making noise, consider replacing the tensioner not just the pulley.

You should have no problem finding the idler pulleys - in the US they are not that expensive even at the GM dealers, but the belts are usually less expensive at parts stores.

Maybe "main plate' means crankshaft pulley.

Albertj[/i]

If you park the car on a spot that is not flat/level it is normal for the car to try and level itself after you shut it off. That may be why you hear that noise after turning the car off.
Same thing when you use a jack to raise one corner of the car. You will hear the compressor run for a few seconds, its trying to level the vehicle.
Not to worry, its normal.

Bert

its not the belts. they are all changed. im talking about the round metal things "rollers" that turn the belts. ok i cant explain any better im just gonna post a video. i couldnt find my camera... ill have the video up soon

OK, got it! The 'round metal things 'rollers' that guide the belts are called "idler pulleys." The big one behind the passenger side engine mount is the hardest to replace, have to remove the mount to get at it.

Many, many engines use those pulleys - one way to replace them is just to remove them and take to an auto parts store - they should be able to match them from stock. For instance one of my idler pulleys is actually for a Ford Thunderbird and another is a steel pulley that the dealer would not/could not tell me what was the part number.

As I mentioned, the bearings in those pulleys go bad. Sometimes they become noisy - which is good, makes them easy to find and replace - but sometimes they just seize. That happened to me twice. One time an idler pulley to the supercharger failed. The car was still driveable but I had plastic shrapnel all over the place - in the engine compartment and on the ground (it failed in the driveway) and the (OEM) belt was destroyed. The other time, my daughter was driving the car and an idler pulley on the accessory belt failed. The car became, for her, almost impossible to steer - only the pulley failed, the belt (a Dayco POLYCOG) was not damaged at all.

The GM dealer you found should have no problem getting them if you can not buy from local parts store.

Also, on the internet are "billet aluminum" pulley kits, try this:

http://www.rjcracing.com/RJC_Buick_Products/RJC_Billet_Alum__Pulleys/rjc_billet_alum__pulleys.html

to get an idea of what is around. Before you buy, check eBay, search on "idler pulley"

Albertj

And if changing the pullies, keep in mind that there are no left hand threads on the 95, upper and lower tensioner or the grooved ideler pulley set. They can be tight, so its always good to have confidence in what direction you are pulling in.

thanx everyone, ok so it was crankshaft pulley and im getting it tomorrow. my friends flying from canada and she'll bring it with her. it cost me 170 $ CAD, is that what the price is for this part?