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 Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement

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matt270avian
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matt270avian

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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptySun Nov 01, 2015 10:31 pm

charlieRobinson wrote:
I tested the module. Pulled the pump out and tested it and it worked fine.

Wired it back up and the Riv is running again. 2nd time this has happened no idea why. everything is perfect when i pull it and dissect it.  drunk

I can't remember if you did a rewire or not. If you didn't, maybe do one? If you did, maybe that's to blame?
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Jack the R
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptySat Oct 26, 2019 11:48 am

Does anyone think replacing the entire pump and housing assembly is worthwhile? There's a big difference between the $37 fuel pump Rock Auto sells and the $195 AC Delco pump and housing
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albertj
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptySun Oct 27, 2019 8:34 pm

Jack the R wrote:
Does anyone think replacing the entire pump and housing assembly is worthwhile?  There's a big difference between the $37 fuel pump Rock Auto sells and the $195 AC Delco pump and housing

Only things I can think of are (1) be sure to clean or replace the fuel level sender and bend the arm the right way - details in the service manual and (2) replacing the pump alone is not a bad idea, as likely as not you'll get a better pump.

That said, the Carter pump that the GM dealer installed in my Riv more than a decade ago is  still running fine.  I did have to promise the parts guy not to run with less than 1/4 tank ha ha.

If you believe what Tom Taylor says in his fuel pump writeup the cheapest pumps RockAuto sells should perform satisfactorily.  If that is the case it'd require a side by side bench teardown to figure out the difference.
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Jack the R
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptyMon Oct 28, 2019 5:42 pm

It looks like Intense's Walbro with the venturi setup is the one to get for the L67 - Link

Turtleman switched to a racetronix, but I don't know which one.

edit - Turtleman's racetronix was a modified Walbro 255. I can't tell if this is still available or not.
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Jack the R
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptySun Nov 03, 2019 10:46 am

An exchange I've been having with Turtleman, very enlightening -


Quote :

Turtleman - Up until the FGT transformation i was using the racetronix as sold by prj. Twas a walbro 255 modified with the venturi feed port. Served me very well. I don't know what current availability is on them.


Jack the R - What are you running now?

Turtleman - Now I'm using the Deatschwerks 400. You can get them with the venturi feed too.
It's a larger body so very tight fit in the bucket - I had to remove the rubber isolator.
It sucks nearly twice the current as my walbro did so need to make sure the wiring can handle that. Mine legit takes like 30 amps under full boost

Jack the R - I've ordered Intense's Walbro with the hotwire fuel harness they sell. I think it's supposed to be the Casper Electronics fuel harness. Is that what you're using? I found a Bonneville thread that said the Casper harness was the best one.

Turtleman - Uh well I think the riv is a totally different animal in terms of fuel pump wiring than a w-body.
We have that PWM module in the trunk that runs the pump. The w-body has like a resistor circuit to step down power (that tends to fail).

I haven't seen one of these casper harnesses up close but I'm figuring the part of the harness you can probably use is the part that plugs into the actual in-tank assembly and then I'd splice the other end of those wires to that module we have. (likely somewhere near the connectors underneath the car close to the rear driver side seat where the harnesses pass through)

You'll see that the wires coming out of the PWM module are heavy gauge good wires. Where it goes wrong is the ground that feeds that module and mainly where those wires transition to the outside of the car (at least on the 95-97) it goes through a connector and then it's shit wire to the pump. You'd be basically wanting to eliminate that portion of the wiring. 98-99 Wiring is a lot more concise.

Jack the R - I read about the Casper harness in a Bonneville thread. As far as I know it runs an extra wire up to the alternator to pick up extra juice for the pump. I'm going to hope they make a generic harness that will work across H, W, and G platforms and not specific harnesses for H and W. We'll see when it gets here.


Turtleman - If the wiring harness runs a new wire all the way to the alternator then it effectively eliminates the PWM speed controller in the trunk since it works on the positive side. I wouldn't wanna do that in a street driven car since it would then run the pump at full speed at the time. It would shorten the life of the pump and maybe heat the fuel up a little. Not the end of the world but there's no reason at all to get rid of it. It's very reliable unlike the w-body garbage.
If you want the benefit of that wire upgrade and keep the speed controller, I'd run the new wire from the alternator or a main power artery (i'd just go to the battery since it's close) to the relay for the fuel pump instead of to the pump (like the new harness presumably comes), and then basically replace the two fuel pump wires going from the speed controller in the trunk to the pump, and finally, run a new dedicated ground supply for the speed controller. That would take care of all wiring improvement matters.

I wish I could find some new terminals for the speed controller so I could insert brand new terminals on my own wire run but I don't know where to get any. So I just solder or crimp to new wire. Soldering is difficult because of the large 12ish gauge wire coming out of the speed controller. You need a lot of heat to get good wicking. I just used like a barrel crimp.

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Jack the R
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptySun Nov 03, 2019 10:50 am

My next question is, will the Walbro work with the existing wiring harness? I want to upgrade the wiring but I may want to drive the car while I'm figuring out what I need to do.
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Jack the R
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptyWed Nov 06, 2019 2:36 am

My God, that lock ring! How does GM get away with doing this crap? You gotta push it down and turn it at the same time, like an aspirin bottle. The special wrench is $300! But you can get it on eBay for half that used. I'm seeing some "universal" ones on Amazon for $25, maybe one of those will work. I'm not having a lot of luck banging mine out with a brass drift. Not too pleased here.
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Jack the R
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptyWed Nov 06, 2019 8:24 pm

I've fallen back on the "pry up the tabs" technique, but I can't get to the tab under the fuel lines. Did anyone get that one?

One thing that has helped was grinding a notch into my brass drift so it doesn't pop off the lock ring so easily.
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turtleman
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptyFri Nov 08, 2019 12:34 am

Every time I've done mine, I used a flat screwdriver or flat punch and hit the ring around from like the side with a hammer. Works fine for me dunno
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Jack the R
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptyFri Nov 08, 2019 1:22 am

I finally got mine, I just had to upgrade to a bigger hammer.

Here's what I ended up using -

Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Y59fyudc

Brass drift with notch ground into the end.

Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Y2ak7hef

Heavy hammer.

I had four of the five locking tabs bent up a little too. I don't know if that's necessary or not with the big hammer. It was still pretty tough to get out of the indent with the big hammer.
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albertj
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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptyFri Nov 08, 2019 12:23 pm

That looks like a genuine B. F. Hammer.
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Jack the R
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Jack the R

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Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 Empty
PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement   Write-Up: Fuel Pump/Tank Sending Unit Replacement - Page 7 EmptyFri Nov 08, 2019 3:10 pm

albertj wrote:
That looks like a genuine B. F. Hammer.

I don't know what that is. I think it was home made.
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