Write-Up: Outer Tie Rod End Installation

for step 4 is a quicker and easyer way, and maybe even safer.
Just hold on the tierod. keep up pulling pressure on it and hit whit a hammer there where the arrow shows.
cos the head is made like a cone it will pop up easely if it gets a bit vibration. (have done that way for ower 7 cars and all came out easely even that they had alot rust on them)

I agree, that will work if you can get enough room to swing the hammer under the steering knuckle. Sometimes the tapered shank is really stuck in there. The reason I use the jack method is because I once tried the hammer and couldn't get it to pop. They also make a fork tool for this, but it can damage the tie rod end, so no good for temporary removal.

nice timing on this thread. i think i damaged my driver side tie rod when i was swapping knuckles for my fbody and suspension install. the driver side makes a nasty clunk/pop when i am going over bumps in turns and then again when i am straightening out the wheel.
does anyone know what the differences are between the 98 tie rods and the 96 tie rods? they have different part numbers and prices (98's being cheaper). i have 97+ steering knuckles, but the 96 steering rods still. which part do i need?

not sure if it is a typo or not, but rockauto has outer tie rods for 97+ riv's for 1.72 each they say they only have 15 left (i just bought 2, and i hope they fit!) the acdelco ones are $50 each.
hope i dont get then installed and they break on the first bump

I would think the '97 would be the right one, so that it fits in the hole in the knuckle. The tie rods could be different sizes, but I don't think so. I'll measure the dia of mine when I get a chance (this week).

This may sound odd but I don't believe my outer tie rod has a jam nut or else they have become completely welded together. Is that even possible?

It has to have a jam nut, or else the tie rod would be loose, in a constant state of adjustment. The rod does not tighten against the inner tie rod end (inside the boot). The only thing that keeps the alignment is the jam nut being tight against the outer tie rod end.

At least this is how the '98 works. '97 might be different?

my 96 works like that. the only forseeable problem would be if the 96 vs 97+ had different threads on the steering rod.

If there is a hex at the end of the tie rod end, try turning it - hard. Per the instructions, be sure to use vise grips on the flat of the tie rod. Apply heat to the tie rod end/nut if needed.

I think the jam nut was just stuck really bad on the end of the tie rod because there is a hex fitting on it. It just looks like that fitting is a part of the tie rod itself. I'll put some vice grips on the tie rod while trying to break the hex piece loose again.

Thanks for the writeup Aaron!!

You might also try turning the hex nut without putting the grips on the tie rod. This would allow the nut and the rod to break loose from the tie rod end together, which is okay. Good luck!

ok got the tie rods in today. they fit with no problem. (ordered 98 outer tie rods for my 96 with 97 knuckles)
for 1.72 each i'm glad that's done. it did not fix my clunk noise, but at least it ruled tie rods out. my old ones were in bad shape leaking grease all over the place.

all i had was hd marine grade grease, will that be ok?
i also discovered the place that did my alignment didnt tighten the bottom bolt on the passenger strut so the strut moved a little bit around the lower knuckle. it is so hard to find a mechanic that doesnt screw up.
i made certain to mark the steering rod and place the new tie rods as close as possible to where they were. i cant afford another alignment and the place i went to doesnt have a warranty on it. it drives straight and hopefully it will be OK.

so are the rear tie rods the same as the fronts? no parts place lists rear outer tie rods, but my 96 has grease-able outer bushings.

I would take it back anyway and demand they do the job right, warranty or not. There's no way for you to know if the alignments on or off - until your tires start showing uneven wear.

Rear tie rod ends should never need changed, imo. They don't really move much, so it would take a long time before they became loose.

AA wrote:

Rear tie rod ends should never need changed, imo. They don't really move much, so it would take a long time before they became loose.

you're probably right. it's just me being anal about replacing parts i dont really need to.

Did tie rod ends today. Big pipe wrench came in real handy to break those stubborn nuts loose. Used a pickle fork to seperate the ends.

I marked the location of the nuts and put them back exactly where they were originally and counted turns and matched everything up and it still ended up out of line. Note to self and everyone else, always get an alignment or atleast get it checked after replacing tie rods.

Got a set of 2 for $25 shipped on ebay. They have grease fittings so as long as I keep them greased they should last a good while.

What grease should I use for the tie rod ends? Will any grease do or do I need to get something special?

I use a "multipurpose" grease - use the same for all chassis lube. I believe a marine grade would also work, but it does not need to be high-temp, such as for wheel bearings.

I'm looking at replacing my tie rod ends and another set of front wheel bearing hubs... if I can swing the extra scratch will go with the better brand on both. Used the cheaper imported hubs last time because it was less than half the price, Then everyone told me, I read posts and wondered how long it will be before I have to do it all again...the answer: 3 years...almost to the month for cheap vs Timken hubs.

My question to the group: what are the symptoms of a bad wheel bearing as opposed to a bad inner tie rod end or ball joint, or even a bad strut? Both my front wheels wobble went jacked up, so I will be doing the tie rods this time with hub bearings but can anyone describe the noises they have experienced when any of this stuff goes bad? Is there one brand of tie rod ends better than another?

The subtle differences our cars front end design make noise diagnosis a slight challenge.

Bad Hub/Bearing:

Sound: deep growl from loaded wheel during hard cornering, or sometimes a creaking from the wheel area (can be misdiagnosed as brakes or cracked rim).

Feel: not easy to feel, unless it's very bad. You'll surely feel it if the wheel flies off (this once happened to me!).

Test: with car raised, rock each wheel 12-6 o'clock. Looser side is the bad hub.

Bad Strut:

Sound: strut not usually audible unless very bad, will rattle. Strut mount/bearing can make a "bump, bump, bump" sound as you turn the wheel at low speed.

Feel: if the strut is bad, the car will bounce/porpoise, as with a bad set of shocks. If the strut mount/bearing is bad, the steering may give a "bump, bump, bump" popping feeback through the wheel.

Test: with car on ground, lift the front bumper and drop. Front end should compress, then rebound only once. Of more movement, struts need replaced. With car running, turn the wheel on slick surface like wet grass. Bad strut mounts can be felt as popping through the wheel.

Tie-Rods & Ends:

Sound: none, maybe a slight "clink" when turning the wheel.

Feel: high speed vibration possible. Steering is "loose", less responsive when straight.

Test: with car raised, rock each wheel 9-3 o'clock, watching how the opposite wheel responds. Both wheels should track EXACTLY the same. If not, watch the tie rods on both sides. You can see if the outer ends are bad. Typically, the outers will wear out before the inners. If loose and no slop evident from the outers, suspect the inners, or the steering rack.
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Note: when getting a fresh wheel alignment, a good tech will inform you of a bad hub or tie-rod issue. Some will even refuse to do the alignment until a repair is done. This is sort of like a free inspection, as they won't charge you for the diagnosis, but only try this if you really need the alignment and know the tech is honest.

This approach may be better suited for those with a life-time alignment purchase (offered though Firestone and other tire sellers). A few times per year, some shops offer the life-time alignment deal at a sale price (about $130-140).

Thanks Aaron, that's the answer I was looking for...wobble is 9 - 3 o'clock so will start with the tie rods and still have beer money...maybe it's not end of cheaper hub lifespan after all. Keep up the good work!

The rubber boot on my rear tie rod ends is falling apart. I checked the usual places, but they only list ones for the front.  I noticed GM sells new rubber boots for about $12. Is it hard to just replace the boots or is there somewhere I can buy new ones? Thanks.

98riv wrote:

The rubber boot on my rear tie rod ends is falling apart.  I checked the usual places, but they only list ones for the front.  I noticed GM sells new rubber boots for about $12.  Is it hard to just replace the boots or is there somewhere I can buy new ones?  Thanks.

You just pop the outer tie rod end off, then pry the boot off. Add some grease (if not grease-able), and slide the new boot on. Re-install the end to the knuckle....done. As long as you don't loosen the jam nut, you won't mess up your alignment.

Abaddon wrote:

98riv wrote:

The rubber boot on my rear tie rod ends is falling apart.  I checked the usual places, but they only list ones for the front.  I noticed GM sells new rubber boots for about $12.  Is it hard to just replace the boots or is there somewhere I can buy new ones?  Thanks.

You just pop the outer tie rod end off, then pry the boot off. Add some grease (if not grease-able), and slide the new boot on. Re-install the end to the knuckle....done. As long as you don't loosen the jam nut, you won't mess up your alignment.

What is the correct torque spec? 88 lb in. then an additional 3/4 turn or 88 lb in. then an additional 1/2 turn

Incase anyone needs it, the part number for the rubber boot is 26049394.

Frick, I think i have some bad outer tie rods..