I have posted some pics in some other threads. I decided to start a thread with progress pics of the build.

First some background: I picked the rivi with this build in mind. I have always liked the style of the car, and thought it would make a great platform for a great sound quality system. The car is a daily driver and I also compete in both the IASCA and MECA sound quality organizations. I have a couple of world championships with my previous car (chrysler 300m) now hopefully I will rack up a few more with this one.

I am trying to have the car done by early August. This will give me enough time to get to shows and qualify for the world championship show in October.

Anyway, on with the build:

First I had to strip the interior down to the metal and apply sound deadening material. I also welded the speaker enclosures in place at this time.





I also lowered the steering column to have an unobstructed path for the speaker.





I installed seats from a Jaguar s-type. I also relocated the seat rails further back and a little closer to the middle of the car.

Stock seat slid all the way back, and new seat also slid all the way back.



Here is the new back seat.




I also installed a steering wheel from a cadillac cts. The buttons have been rewired to operate the pioneer dexp9 deck and the lcd screen that displays the gauges, navigation, and dvd. The center is just "roughed in" it will be covered in black leather to match the seats.



Back to the dash. Now I started laying out framework for the basic shape of the dash.








Now for a little fiberglass on the top of the dash.




Display for gauges. I am using a Magden m.1 computer that reads data straight from the obdII plug and then displays that data as gauges. I can choose a gauge from almost anything that the obdII has information for. I can also change the layout, needle colors, and text colors.





Here is the console from a mercedes E class that will be incorporated into the lower dash. It will also be re-done in black leather to match the seats and steering wheel.




Now for fiberglass on the lower part of the dash and the transition to the center console.







Next is the panel on the front of the dash that contains the air vents (vents are from a jaguar xj). This panel will eventually be painted "wood grain" to match the steering wheel and door panels, which I still have to make. This panel will also hide the transition from the black grill material on the top of the dash (next on the list to make) and the black leather that will be on the bottom of the dash.







Next on the list is the trim panel around the gauges and the grill to cover the entire top of the dash and hide the speakers.

More to come......

i came.

simply..... amazing!

Beautiful work. Can't wait to see the finished pictures. Since I'll never be able to hear it.

very impressive work. i know how hard it is whit the fiberglass..
so you will cover the dashboard and all the other parts whit black lether?
what will you but under the lether?
will it stay soft or hard?

i guess you will modifie the door covers tho? to line up whit the new dashboard.
cant wait to see more pictures of your work.

and btw nice steering wheel. did it fit in whitout any mods?

There will be a thin layer of foam under the leather to add a little softness.

The door panels, rear side panels, rear deck, and the entire trunk will all be completely fabricated using the same method as the dash.

The steering wheel did have to be modified. I had to use a 15 ton press to remove the center of the wheel. Then I bolted on an aftermarket steering wheel adapter.

Awesome!

looking good

The amps are almost finished being built. I should be able get them next weekend. The car should be back from being painted in about three weeks. Then it is time to return to the audio system.

Here are some pics of the amps being built. They are four zapco reference 200.2 amps (after modifications about 250 watts per channel) stuffed into two reference 650.6 heat sink chassis. Each 650.6 chassis is about three feet long. The amps were put into the larger heat sinks to help dissipate the extra heat created from the amps being converted to class "a" bias.






All that is left for these is to attach the covers and end plates.


These amps are for the tweeters and midbass drivers. One amp for each speaker.
I also have a reference 1100.1 ( about 1100 watts) for the sub.

wow! u and palermocory should have much in common!

HOW IN THE HELL DID I MISS THIS THREAD.......... ROTFY

I finally got the gauges to match the deck that will be going in the dash.

That looks incredible.
Can't wait to see the finished product. Excellent work.

nice sqrivi.Bro,don't forget to insert one of these HUD devices in.

link

or

link

and many more but do your eBay research first and teach us how to do it.Goodluck.