124,000 Miles. Might need oil pump

Well, the oil pump seems weak to me. When I first start it, it's fine. Once it warms up a bit, at idle the oil dummy light comes on. If I touch the gas a raise the idle 100-150 RPM the oil light turns back off. Plus it ticks a little, sounds like the top end. Had a Camaro with the 3.8 but non-super charged, the guy I got it from drove it accross state, didn't blow the motor, but the ticking, and oil light was the same. Changed the oil pump, about a 2 hour job. And then it was fine. I think the oil pump is about $50.00, I got a friend that can get it from the dealer.

Forgive me if I suggest trying things that you have already done...

Make sure the oil is not somehow diluted and verify it is the correct oil and viscosity. The reason I mention that is it almost sounds like the oil is too thin. Or perhaps the oil pump strainer is clogged with debris.

What RPM is it idling at?

Bert

What viscosity oil are you using?

Unfortunately, oil pressure like you are describing usually means worn bearings, not a problem with the pump.

You should be running 10w30. If you are and still have this issue I have a couple of suggestions:
1) try a mechanical oil gauge that you trust to confirm the problem. Could just be a bad sending unit.
2) try a heavier oil, 10w40 or worst case 20w50. If that cures your problem, it's more likely worn bearings than a bad pump. Only try this method _after_ the gauge test.

Thanks for the help. Got a factory original for 29.99, so I'll try that 1st. Then see if it's the sending unit. It is running the 10/30 I believe, no water in the oil. Idle is at 800 in gear. When it is in park or neutral, the oil light stays off, and oly does it when warm.

My friend is driving the car right now, he had a 1999 Grand Prix. and he says it is severely under powered. Same engine with Super Charger, but he says that car would trow him back in his seat, but mine is not as strong. Could it be a leak in the gasket between the Super Charger and the intake?

96Super wrote:

My friend is driving the car right now, he had a 1999 Grand Prix. and he says it is severely under powered. Same engine with Super Charger, but he says that car would trow him back in his seat, but mine is not as strong. Could it be a leak in the gasket between the Super Charger and the intake?

What makes you think there is an intake gasket leak? Would that cause a problem? Sure it would. But it would cause a lot of other problems and barely run as well. If you suspect a gasket or vacuum leak, with the engine running shoot some carb cleaner around the areas you think the leak is. If you can make the engine race or stumble, you likely just uncovered a vacuum leak.

Does the Riv feel as fast as the GTP? No, it doesn't. It's got a softer suspension and more absorbant motor and tranny mounts, plus it's a couple hundred lbs heavier. So it doesn't "feel" as fast, but on a track it's not far behind. OTOH you can drive the Riv for 300 miles and get out without complaining about back issues.

What octane fuel are you using?

I really don't think an oil pump is going to solve your problem. Go for it, though, if you feel you must. First I would confirm the oil pressure readings you are getting though. It would be a shame to replace the oil pump for the fault of a sending unit.

Also - if you personally did not change the oil last time, change it now with a good 10W-30.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

Also - if you personally did not change the oil last time, chane it now with a good 10W-30.

Albertj

this is an excellent point - I've seen some straaange things happening after a *cough* unnamed chain */cough* 's oil change. My suburban would burn a quart of oil just about every tank of gas with this company's oil in it. Did my own oil change and the burning stopped... and it was funky when it drained out too.

deekster_caddy wrote:

albertj wrote:

Also - if you personally did not change the oil last time, chane it now with a good 10W-30.

Albertj

this is an excellent point - I've seen some straaange things happening after a *cough* unnamed chain */cough* 's oil change. My suburban would burn a quart of oil just about every tank of gas with this company's oil in it. Did my own oil change and the burning stopped... and it was funky when it drained out too.

It also could have been your Suburban routinely got a "short fill" - I know one quick change place that routinely fills the oil no further than the lower half of the shaded part of the dipstick. To "avoid overfilling" they say. Thing is, they use a bulk oil dispensing system. If they can shave 1/2 to 1 quart of oil off each fill then every oil change costs less. Think about it. There is no cost for the oil needed for every eighth, ninth or tenth change because they shaved some off each one. You drive away and you have no idea, except that, dang, you're a quart low much of the time. I respectfully submit that there is a non-zero chance that it wasn't filled completely to start with.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

albertj wrote:

Also - if you personally did not change the oil last time, chane it now with a good 10W-30.

Albertj

this is an excellent point - I've seen some straaange things happening after a *cough* unnamed chain */cough* 's oil change. My suburban would burn a quart of oil just about every tank of gas with this company's oil in it. Did my own oil change and the burning stopped... and it was funky when it drained out too.

It also could have been your Suburban routinely got a "short fill" - I know one quick change place that routinely fills the oil no further than the lower half of the shaded part of the dipstick. To "avoid overfilling" they say. Thing is, they use a bulk oil dispensing system. If they can shave 1/2 to 1 quart of oil off each fill then every oil change costs less. Think about it. There is no cost for the oil needed for every eighth, ninth or tenth change because they shaved some off each one. You drive away and you have no idea, except that, dang, you're a quart low much of the time. I respectfully submit that there is a non-zero chance that it wasn't filled completely to start with.

Albertj

I checked it cold. Dipstick hit all the way up.

albertj wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

albertj wrote:

Also - if you personally did not change the oil last time, chane it now with a good 10W-30.

Albertj

this is an excellent point - I've seen some straaange things happening after a *cough* unnamed chain */cough* 's oil change. My suburban would burn a quart of oil just about every tank of gas with this company's oil in it. Did my own oil change and the burning stopped... and it was funky when it drained out too.

It also could have been your Suburban routinely got a "short fill" - I know one quick change place that routinely fills the oil no further than the lower half of the shaded part of the dipstick. To "avoid overfilling" they say. Thing is, they use a bulk oil dispensing system. If they can shave 1/2 to 1 quart of oil off each fill then every oil change costs less. Think about it. There is no cost for the oil needed for every eighth, ninth or tenth change because they shaved some off each one. You drive away and you have no idea, except that, dang, you're a quart low much of the time. I respectfully submit that there is a non-zero chance that it wasn't filled completely to start with.

Albertj

There was nothing routine about it - I have always been changing my own oil but there was this one time I had them do it... never again. I checked the oil every time I get gas, and it was full after the oil change, and burned a whole boatload of oil, only after that oil change. Before and after that oil change, it did not consume very much oil.

Derek: sounds like it was just minimum-spec oil. It's funny - it's still the case that for what these places charge you can put in better oil yourself.

Albertj