My engine keeps stalling out?

i have a 1995 buick riv 140xxxxmiles
my cars been dying every once and a while:(
My battery is good,my alternator is good,i changed the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, also changed the coils aswell,for awhile i was thinking i had a bad cat converter but i just replaced it and my car is still dying:(
anybody have a clue what the problem could be?

Is it stalling or shutting off? If it's just shutting off you could have a simple problem like a loose battery cable or bad coil module ground.

When it dies, does it start back up again or do you have to wait or what? Is there any certain condition that you can identify it happening under?

I had problems with my 97 randlomly dieing but it would start pretty much right back up. Once I finally fixed my maf and cam sensor wires, to the PCM, that fixed it. Other than the dieing, it drove pretty good for the most part. That's just one possibility.

Need some more info on the symptoms though

well when it dies it starts right back up again but she does heat up past 205 degrees?

Still need more detail though. What are the conditions when it stalls? Is your SES light on?

Does it also have a long crank time?
I had a stalling/long crank issue with my Park Avenue. It liked to stall as I came to a stop. No codes ever set.
After weeks of testing and or replacing every logical part that the service manual led me too, it ended up being the fuel pressure regulator.

(Which the manual made no mention of being a possible cause)

riv416 wrote:

i have a 1995 buick riv 140xxxxmiles
my cars been dying every once and a while:(
My battery is good,my alternator is good,i changed the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, also changed the coils aswell,for awhile i was thinking i had a bad cat converter but i just replaced it and my car is still dying:(
anybody have a clue what the problem could be?

check the ignition switch. at this age they are an interesting cause of failure.

Not the ignition lock (where the Pass Key system goes thru). The lock connects to the switch, buried in teh steering column. Over time the switch wears out and gives you the only failure I know of, besides the crank sensor, that won't set a code.

Albertj

As you see it could be one of many things. I had a similar problem. My 96 would cut out at cruising speed. I was able to put the car into neutral and re-start it. It ended up being the fuel pump. But I never had the temperature problem that you are having.

the SES light is on and it sometimes dies as im slowing down or it dies once i stop at a red light or stop sign?

Do you hear a hissing sound from the engine when it's on?

actually yes i do?
could it be a vacume hose?

riv416 wrote:

actually yes i do?
could it be a vacume hose?

Yea, it could be a big 'ol vacuum leak.

do i need to replace the hoses?

If it is indeed a vacuum leak you'd have to figure out from where first.

I think some shops do a "smoke test". It's not that expensive, but that normally finds it right away.

cool thanks ill be getting that done then

riv416 wrote:

cool thanks ill be getting that done then

Try to find it on your own first. It never hurts to save a couple bucks here and there.

most of the vac lines are on the driver's side of the engine. Start from the power brake booster (that big black can on the firewall that's holding the master cylinder for the brakes) and trace along its big rubber hose. You will find a black vacuum distribution fitting. The point is to do a couple things.

One - any line that pulls off its fitting easily needs to be replaced. They should not pull off easy. They are either dryrotted or they were replaced before using the wrong size hose.

Two - bend a line around your finger. Any line with little cracks in it should be replaced even though it may not be leaking at the present time.

An easy way to do this is to go to an old-line auto parts store and ask the counterperson to come out and look at your car's vacuum lines and sell you a couple feet of each size so you can replace them. The better counterpersons can usually tell what size lines you have by looking and maybe disconnecting 1 or 2. Also, you may have some lines that have fittings on the ends. They will be obvious. Be sure to pull those lines to see what sizes you will need. Usually one "assortment" pack of fittings is more than enough. A fitting is just a little rubber tube - the vac hose slides onto the fitting nipple and then the fitting slides onto the engine somewhere - onto a vacuum fitting that is larger or smaller than your vacuum hose's diameter.

Then you go home and replace lines one by one. All you'll need is a pair of scissors. However, it might help to have an auto trim removal tool to help get the stubborn lines off. a set like this is OK:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4489

I have one like this, you should be able to find it at a local NAPA (it might have higher price though)

http://www.camarocentral.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=INT-339


Be sure not to bust any of the vac nipples (mostly they are plastic nowadays). The tool will help you avoid breaking nipples.

Good luck

Albertj

Did you find the problem?

bump -

I'm having similar issue based on symptoms.

albertj wrote:

riv416 wrote:

i have a 1995 buick riv 140xxxxmiles
my cars been dying every once and a while:(
My battery is good,my alternator is good,i changed the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, also changed the coils aswell,for awhile i was thinking i had a bad cat converter but i just replaced it and my car is still dying:(
anybody have a clue what the problem could be?

check the ignition switch.  at this age they are an interesting cause of failure.

Not the ignition lock (where the Pass Key system goes thru).  The lock connects to the switch, buried in teh steering column.  Over time the switch wears out and gives you the only failure I know of, besides the crank sensor, that won't set a code.

Albertj