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BackfromtheDead
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PostSubject: Rear Hub assembly   Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:30 pm

Hey everyone, I'm in the process of replacing my rear hub assembly.
I've removed all the bolts but the hub will not budge from its fitting.

Are there any tricks or tools needed to pull it out? I've soaked it in PB several times...
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Rickw
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:36 pm

I would say a hub puller is in order or a BFH, just be careful with the BFH.
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AA
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:06 pm

Big Friggin Hammer.

You can also apply heat with a butane torch to the hub.

_________________
"An intercooled, supercharged, 280 HP Buick Riviera with neck-snapping acceleration and precise handling that proves GM can make something really interesting and competent, if only they would build more than one at a time."
- John R. White, Boston Globe

"I think that in any racing engine, the nearer you are to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be."
- Keith Duckworth, Cosworth Engineering

'98 SC Riviera • 238k miles • 298 HP/370 LB-FT • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.5 avg MPG


3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180º t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco F/Rsway bars • ES links/bushings • GM strut brace • Enkei 18" EV5s • Dunlop DZ101 tires
F-body calipers • EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • slotted discs • ATE superblue fluid • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch
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Rickw
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:16 pm

Or MAPP Gas, on a butane head. It produces a hotter flame for stubborn parts.
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BackfromtheDead
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Tue Nov 17, 2009 12:29 am

im not sure you can use a puller for the rear since theres no spindle... ill try wailing on it with a hammer tommoroww.
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Ironclad-454
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Tue Nov 17, 2009 1:37 am

A little heat will go a long way, just be sure to have a fire extinguisher near by just in case.
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BackfromtheDead
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:27 pm

well i got it off with the big hammer/ crow bar combo...

the hub isnt wobbly at all but when i rotate, it has a slight bit of friction.

is there anywhere i can take it to make sure its bad?

also the sensor wires where sliced clean.

could that be the reason my abs/trac control went out?
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Rickw
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:22 pm

BackfromtheDead wrote:
well i got it off with the big hammer/ crow bar combo...

the hub isnt wobbly at all but when i rotate, it has a slight bit of friction.

is there anywhere i can take it to make sure its bad?

also the sensor wires where sliced clean.

could that be the reason my abs/trac control went out?

The only thing you can do if the hub/bearing is off the car is to rotate it and feel for friction.
While it was on the car you could use a dial indicator and measure end play as well as feel the bearing for rotational friction.
The broken wires will give you an ABS/Trac Cont. light.
Be aware after you install a new bearing and hub with ABS sensor the light may or may not go out depending on if there are other broken wires at any other wheel or another bad sensor.
But, you have to start somewhere.
Why would you remove the Hub and Bearing if you didn't intend on putting on a New one.?????
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BackfromtheDead
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:22 pm

i just want to make sure im replacing the right one. no need to spend $70 to replace a good part.
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Rickw
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:30 pm

Then splice the wires and re-install it and se what happens.
It can't hurt...It's only labor. No cost yet.
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AA
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:49 pm

After prying and beating on it with a BFH, I sure wouldn't want to put it back on my car. The old part can be considered a bad hub now, imo.

One way you could've checked the hub was to lift the car and rock the wheel up & down before you took it off. The wheel will usually feel loose if the bearing has gone bad.

_________________
"An intercooled, supercharged, 280 HP Buick Riviera with neck-snapping acceleration and precise handling that proves GM can make something really interesting and competent, if only they would build more than one at a time."
- John R. White, Boston Globe

"I think that in any racing engine, the nearer you are to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be."
- Keith Duckworth, Cosworth Engineering

'98 SC Riviera • 238k miles • 298 HP/370 LB-FT • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.5 avg MPG


3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180º t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco F/Rsway bars • ES links/bushings • GM strut brace • Enkei 18" EV5s • Dunlop DZ101 tires
F-body calipers • EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • slotted discs • ATE superblue fluid • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4 Online
albertj
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Thu Nov 19, 2009 3:46 pm

BackfromtheDead wrote:
i just want to make sure im replacing the right one. no need to spend $70 to replace a good part.


You need the $70 less than you need the hassle - and by doing it yourself you can afford to get Timken or SKF wheel bearing assembly.

Especially after you beat on it with a hammer. I killed an ABS sensor by taking off a brake rotor hat with a 4-lb sledge. The bearings don't like to be whacked.

Albertj
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nigelf
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:42 pm

I just did both my rear bearings... both were stuchk like welded!!!

the way i got them off was to use a 1/2 inch socket on the bolts...

There are 3 holes in the hub 2 small ones and one larger the socket will pass through that and if you undo the bolt then leave the socket on the bolt remove the extension rotate the hub until one of smaller holes are over the socket. now put the extension through the hole and undo the bolt . it will act as a puller as it will push the back of the socket against the rear of the hub and force it from the mount. Do a little on each bolt until it comes off. It takes a few mins but works a treat.

Nigel
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Rickw
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Thu Nov 19, 2009 9:10 pm

Nigel,
Why did you do both your rear hub/bearings.?
PM or were both bad at the same time.?
What MFG bearing did you use.?

I'm asking all these questions because i think I'm going to do something that goes against the grain of my whole being, that is replace parts without knowing if that will solve my vibration issue.
I'm so frustrated, i think I will just start accumulating parts and start changing one thing at a time until it is solved, up to and including the Steering Rack.
I'd like to find a Non-Magnasteer unit.
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nigelf
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Name: Nigel
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Location: Fishkill NY
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PostSubject: Re: Rear Hub assembly   Fri Nov 20, 2009 7:20 am

Rick,

Yes i changed both, the rear drivers side ABS was erroring and giving an ABS light.

In my mind anything to do with wheels i do to both sides like brake pads rotors and hubs. It just seems logical if one side is worn the other side cant be much different as they both travel a similar distance.

the bearings i have taken off could still be used as a tester. If you want send your address and i will post one or both to you. Im not sure but will test then later tonight as i dont think any thing is wrong with them .. the bloomin ABS light is still on!!!!

as a pair they came out at 113 dollars from ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270399384133&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AEOIBSA%3AGB%3A1123

very good price and delivered quickly.

if you want any more info please let me know

Regards
Nigel
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