Help! coolant in the cylinders

ok in an earlier post i made i cracked my throttle body which in turn leaked coolant everywhere including inside the supercharger which in turn got into my cylinders. I got a new TB and i installed it, but i cant get the car to start. I took the front plugs out and they have a mix of gasoline and slimy coolant in them and i cant get to the rear plugs. I don't think a lot of coolant got in, but i really dont know. Any ideas on how to get the the car started and burn that coolant out? or any ideas on what i should do?

you have to be able to get to the rear plugs. remove the serpentine belt. attach a long ass breaker bar to the crank shaft pulley(harmonic balancer) remove one plug at a time and turn the engine over. you should see coolant seep out the plug hole when the piston reaches TDC. roll up a paper towel and stick it in the plug hole and sop up as much coolant as you can. repeat till you have removed as much coolant as is mechanically possible.
another way would be to stick a long 1/4 hose into each cylinder and suck as much coolant as possible from the block. PIA but it works!
p.s i know you love your riv but please dont swallow her fluids.

First, DO NOT TRY and RUN IT to burn the coolant out. If there is enough coolant in the cylinders to have fouled the plugs you have to remove all or most of it first.
You have to get ALL the plugs out, drain the oil and put in fresh oil and a filter.
Crank the engine over with plugs removed to try and get as much coolant as possible to blow out of the cylinders.
Or better yet do as Robotennis mentioned.
Anti-Freeze does not make a good lubricant and can ruin the top end and the bearings of the engine quickly.
After blowing out the cylinders by cranking, use an oil can and put some oil in each cylinder, let it sit for a while (allow the oil to penetrate and lubricate the top of pistons and rings). Then crank engine over again to blow out of the cylinders what you can.
Put in fresh spark plugs and try to start it.
If it runs, only run it until it gets up to temp and change the oil and filter again.
After the second oil change run it until reaches normal temp, shut it off and pull the dipstick to make sure you have good clean oil on the stick. If it looks good drive the car for about 100 miles and then change oil and filter again just to be safe. Each time you change the oil inspect what comes out and look for water/coolant in the oil, it will be obvious as oil and water do not mix well.

rick ,that is a beautiful tech explanation. certainement how its done.
truly rick, you are one of our centuries great explainers

robotennis61 wrote:

rick ,that is a beautiful tech explanation. certainement how its done.
truly rick, you are one of our centuries great explainers

I won that award this year

OK, I got all the plugs out of the car. I turned it over quite a few times and had very little coolant run out. I could smell the gas also. I put in new plugs and made sure everything was hooked up right. All wires are connected and the TB is hooked up. I tried starting it and it wanted to at first but wouldnt.. I feel like its so close but i cant get her to turn over. It turned over once but only for a few seconds. I now have drained my battery and i am recharging it. I also disconnected my battery before I tried starting it just to reset the computer. Any other ideas?

Try injecting some carb cleaner or brake cleaner into the vacuum port under the SC Snout while someone else is cranking the motor and see if you can get it run on that stuff.
If all is OK, it will run on brake clean, run lousy but it will run and possibly help you to blow out what's remaining in the cylinders. Also, remember that anti-freeze in the catalytic converter can contaminate it and render it useless, if enough coolant was allowed to pass through the exhaust.
Don't forget to change your oil and filter ASAP as well. That stuff that's in there is contaminated and not good for the engines bearings, etc.
When you try to run one of these engines on brake clean, you need to modulate the amount of fluid your spraying to keep it running for a little bit. You don't want to run it too long on that stuff, but long enough to verify the engine runs.
Don't forget to hook up the vacuum hose you had to remove to gain access to the vacuum tap in the LIM when you are done.

ok, well heres an update. Bfor i saw rickw's response i got it started by using about an ounce of sea foam in the vacuum line and it started up perfect who knew. Well anyway to make my day WORSE and this whole ordeal, i let the engine warm up to temp for about 10 min and i started spewing oil all over the ground. wtf? By then i was freaking out and stressed out and was about to light this car on fire! I decided to take it to a shop against all my will and let them look at it. Well they just called me and said i spun the harmonic balancer and messed up the crank seal. I just installed a brand new HB in april 2009 so i dont know what happened. I guess im just going to let the mechanic fix it.

Is the HB bolt TTY? Torque To Yield, or 'replace after one use'.

wow , the only way i know of to spin a HB is to forget to replace the woodruff key upon installation. might you have forgotten to put it back?