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 Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)

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highwaywarrior
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:06 pm

Oh havent taken the snout off at all. I just saw the leak but i will keep that in mind when i do take it aapart to reseal it. Ziptie sounds like a good idea. 98 riviera, idk if i meantioned that lol
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:06 pm

Yes i used a turkey baster and vacuum pumo to take out old oil.thanks man, goingto get the sealent now
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:31 pm

Umm, now that I think about it, isn't the snout sealed? You should be able to take it off the car without leaking any oil anywhere. It sounds like you might have a snout seal gone bad causing oil to get into the rotor pack? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. It's been awhile since I've had my snout off the car....
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:32 pm

I'd just use some RTV, like Ultra-Black. Might as well change the coupler if you haven't done so.

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98 Riviera SC3800  All stock except gutted air box.
1970 Buick GS455 Stage1, TSP built 470BBB, 602HP/589TQ
Best MPH, 116.06 MPH, Best ET, 11.54
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHCda-t_Jls
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LARRY70GS
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:34 pm

Abaddon wrote:
Umm, now that I think about it, isn't the snout sealed? You should be able to take it off the car without leaking any oil anywhere. It sounds like you might have a snout seal gone bad causing oil to get into the rotor pack? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. It's been awhile since I've had my snout off the car....
If that were true, you could remove the snout without draining the oil, and I don't believe that is so.  The kit that ZZP sells with the coupler includes a turkey baster and replacement SC oil.



http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/63-Supercharger-Coupler.aspx (See Option 2)

_________________
98 Riviera SC3800  All stock except gutted air box.
1970 Buick GS455 Stage1, TSP built 470BBB, 602HP/589TQ
Best MPH, 116.06 MPH, Best ET, 11.54
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHCda-t_Jls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfT2tEO4XcU


Last edited by LARRY70GS on Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:41 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:38 pm

Makes sense. Like I said, it's been awhile since I've had it off. I don't remember having to drain the GenV when I took it apart. Hmmmm....guess I'll look at it in the garage when I get home. The snout is in a box somewhere scratch 
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 13, 2013 5:09 pm

Oil is sealed in the snout. You only need the tiniest layer of sealant. I forgot to use any when I put mine back together. It's been holding oil just fine for a few years now.

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'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 13, 2013 5:24 pm

Ok so dont smother it with sealant, got it, just picked it up, but on my way to dc in a rental. Removed supercharger belt and drove it to rent car, feels the same just with no boost lol. Thabks guys for your help
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 13, 2013 5:39 pm

highwaywarrior wrote:
Ok so dont smother it with sealant, got it, just picked it up, but on my way to dc in a rental. Removed supercharger belt and drove it to rent car, feels the same just with no boost lol. Thabks guys for your help
when you go buy the sealant the key word here is  "Anaerobic" permatex makes it.It's a real thin gel.I dont think anything else would be entirely suitable.Stuffs expensive as hell tho!  about $20 bucks for a tiny little 50ml tube.  Permatex #51031 high temp anaerobic sealant. Just a dab will do ya!
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Sat Sep 14, 2013 4:51 pm

It could be possible that someone took your snout off once upon a time and dropped it or something, messing up the machined surface, causing it to leak.
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Sun Sep 15, 2013 3:57 pm

I hope not lol. Looking fo snout removal writeupsas we speak
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 20, 2013 4:02 pm

How did you break the snout loose? I did everything here and shook and pulled, well I can see the supercharger rotors now
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 20, 2013 4:05 pm

highwaywarrior wrote:
How did you break the snout loose? I did everything here and shook and pulled, well I can see the supercharger rotors now
Did you get the bottom middle bolt? If you break the seal it should slide right off as long as all the bolts are out.
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 20, 2013 4:08 pm

Yep, bet it's the hidden bolt!

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
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highwaywarrior
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 20, 2013 4:53 pm

Found it, how much fluid goes in?
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Fri Sep 20, 2013 5:19 pm

~2.5 bottles of GM SC oil.

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Sat Sep 21, 2013 11:23 am

It depends on how you have the car parked. 2 bottles if it is on a level surface, 2.5 if it's on a hill.
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Sat Sep 21, 2013 6:39 pm

I wonder if it would come out if you move the vac line out of the way then grip it with a vise grip(tm) wrench.

I wonder if a cutoff wheel on a Dremel MotoTool would be possible to cut/grind off the bolt head.

I wonder if it is most sensible to just remove th blower (LIM gasket?)

Albertj
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:32 pm

Repalced snout, supercharger fluid still leaking, but not alot, going ro retorque the bolts tomorrow, crap!
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Thu Sep 26, 2013 4:02 pm

Hi everyone. For us noobs, I have a couple of questions:

1. All the info here says to just loosen the belts and remove the alt. How do we loosen the belts? Is there some sort of adjuster on a tensioner? Or do we use the alt to provide the tension? And on reinstallation, how tight do we make the belt?

2. When reinstalling blower snout, what do we torque the bolts to?


Last edited by Yardley on Thu Sep 26, 2013 4:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Thu Sep 26, 2013 4:06 pm

1. The belts are loosened by applying counter-clockwise torque to the tensioner pulleys. See this write-up for more:

http://rivperformance.editboard.com/t725-write-up-replacing-belts-and-pulleys

2. Supercharger oil is available from INTENSE, ZZP, or the GM parts counter. See our vender listing for contact info. I think they provide a kit, but really all you need is a turkey baster or small siphon pump.

3. Not sure, but start with 15 ft-lb. It may be higher.

_________________
'98 SC Riviera • 268k miles • 298 HP/370 TQ • 0-60: 5.79s • ET: 13.97 @ 99.28 • 4087 lb • 20.1 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:30
3.4" pulley • AL104 plugs • 180Ί t-stat • FWI w/K&N • 1.9:1 rockers • OR pushrods • LS6 valve springs • SLP headers • ZZP fuel rails
KYB GR2 struts • MaxAir shocks • Addco sway bars • UMI bushings • GM STB • Enkei 18" EV5s w/ Dunlop DZ101s • F-body calipers
EBC bluestuff/Hawk HP plus • SS lines • Brembo slotted discs • DHP tuned • Aeroforce • Hidden Hitch


'05 GTO • 49k miles • 0-60: 4.8s • 16.9 avg MPG • Nelson Ledges Lap: 1:26
Because fun
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657082/4
Yardley
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Thu Sep 26, 2013 5:27 pm

Thanks! As for torque... anybody have a shop manual with this info? I'd like to not strip the threads on the blower.
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Thu Sep 26, 2013 6:24 pm

Yardley wrote:
Thanks! As for torque... anybody have a shop manual with this info? I'd like to not strip the threads on the blower.
First of all, the snout removal is not a GM recommended procedure, so all the FSM will tell you is how to replace the entire supercharger. Here at Rivperformance, we know better and don't condemn the entire supercharger for coupler rattle, which the stealership would certainly do.

If you must torque them, I'd say 15 ft. lbs max, but I am not one of those people who use a torque wrench for everything. Main bearing bolts, intake bolts, head bolts, sure, but other stuff, I just snug it up. Don't go all Mongo on it, it's just a snout bolt. If you strip one, I will come down there just to smack you one:lmao: 


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98 Riviera SC3800  All stock except gutted air box.
1970 Buick GS455 Stage1, TSP built 470BBB, 602HP/589TQ
Best MPH, 116.06 MPH, Best ET, 11.54
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHCda-t_Jls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfT2tEO4XcU
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Thu Sep 26, 2013 6:28 pm

I found multiple sources saying 15 ft-lb. Mine were torqued to 15 ft-lbs and that seems to have been plenty. Its been a few years and no leaks. Eaton doesnt make service manuals for their Superchargers and a Riviera service manual just says "NOTICE: Servicing of the supercharger unit itself is limited to replacement only. No attempt should be made to disassemble the supercharger as parts damage may result." I believe they need to say that since its not a GM product. I know a couple kids I graduated with who paid ~$900-1200 because they took it to the dealership to be serviced as a "bad supercharger"

Edit: hahaha. As Larry said, just snug will suffice, thats what a gasket is for. No need to go "mongo" on it. lol  Well said!
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PostSubject: Re: Write-Up: Supercharger Coupler Replacement (Series II)   Thu Sep 26, 2013 8:56 pm

Thanks, y'all. Is there a gasket? Or just the gasket stuff that comes with the coupler? Leaks suck. And I ordered the coupler and oil today.

Got my Riv back from the garage today. State inspection and some other work done on it. It is so beautiful. I swapped rear speakers and installed the STB.
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