A few issues with my '96

I have a '96 supercharged riviera with a couple of problems, I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction. About a year ago the rpms started going nuts going up and down, and if I was driving slow enough it would turn off. I replaced the ignition control module, after getting the code from the cars computer. It drives better but I'm wondering if driving with it that way for a while caused these other problems. I hear this rattling noise when I turn the riviera on and when I turn it off as well, I've been reading these forums and it seems like it's the coupler? The other problem I'm having is that it seems as if the supercharger isn't well... Supercharging, the whine that the supercharger used to make isn't very noticable If at all. Any suggestions? I hope driving with the bad ignition didn't do real damage to my '96, I love this car.

Following the instructions in the supercharger thread, slip the drive belt off and turn the pulley by hand. If there is play, the coupler needs to be replaced. That thread also has sources.

It may not fix the rattle you hear - a rattle could be muffler heat shields or any number of other things - but it is something needing to be done if there is appreciable play.

Albertj

96rivsc wrote:

ISupercharging, the whine that the supercharger used to make isn't very noticable If at all. Any suggestions?

Have you lost power as well? If so, it could be a vacuum-control problem with the Boost Control Valve or Boost Control Solenoid (sometimes BCV & BCS when searching.)

if i did its not very noticable. i'm about to order a new coupler and sc oil, i hope that helps. im ordering off zz performance. is there a difference between the gm sc oil and the zzp sc oil?

Don't forget the Anaerobic Sealer for the nose

96rivsc wrote:

if i did its not very noticable. i'm about to order a new coupler and sc oil, i hope that helps. im ordering off zz performance. is there a difference between the gm sc oil and the zzp sc oil?

-If you're not losing power, then I suspect you're just getting used to the whine... I hardly ever notice mine any more.

-Yes, GM packages the oil in 4 ounce bottles, while the blower requires 6 ounces...

Per the ZZP site::
This is OEM replacement oil measured to be the perfect amount to fill one m62/m90 supercharger. This won't require you to buy 2 four ounce bottles of GM oil when you only use 6 ounces.

By the way, buy the green coupler - it's superior.

Abaddon wrote:

Don't forget the Anaerobic Sealer for the nose

Funny how ZZP sells snouts, bearings and couplers, but doesn't sell the sealer...

Ok sounds good. just ordered the coupler along with two bottles of GM supercharger oil. I can pick up the sealer in town at a kragens or something right? im not a great mechanic, but seeing my riviera under the weather makes me want to become one haha. thanks for the help, i appreciate it.

I was able to buy a small tube of the sealer at Advanced Auto parts for a couple of dollars.

I got Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker. one small blue tube was just enough to do the snout with a little left over. It's the same as recommended by GM. Just put one thin continuous bead around the CLEANED surface is all you need. Do Not use too much, not necessary and good luck, it's an easy job to do.

BTW, I think it may have been Intense that sold a Kit that included everything needed.
But I can't remember who anymore. Failed memory.

Rickw wrote:

I was able to buy a small tube of the sealer at Advanced Auto parts for a couple of dollars.

I got Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker. one small blue tube was just enough to do the snout with a little left over. It's the same as recommended by GM. Just put one thin continuous bead around the CLEANED surface is all you need. Do Not use too much, not necessary and good luck, it's an easy job to do.

BTW, I think it may have been Intense that sold a Kit that included everything needed.
But I can't remember who anymore. Failed memory.

whole kit including needle bearings is available from darossillc.com (that is where I got mine)

Albertj

96rivsc wrote:

Ok sounds good. just ordered the coupler along with two bottles of GM supercharger oil.

Is it too late to modify your order? I know it's not a lot of $$, but you didn't really get it...
The ZZP oil is the same stuff, but at a better price in the correct-sized container.

probably is, it was 16 for 8 ounces or 10 for 6. oh well, i got bigger problems again. i replaced the ignition control about 3 weeks ago and it had been driving fine since, but as i was coming home just now the rivi started to jump on me again. not as bad as before though, before it could swing up and down 2000 rpm without a warning. any ideas on what it might be? i have a lifetime warranty on the ignition control so i can go swap it out if its a faulty ign.

No SES light?

not since i swapped out original ignition control.

I got my coupler from zzp and it came with the sealer, the oil ,and a big syringe with a rubber tube to put it in with.you just have to click on that option when you buy it.

96blackriv wrote:

I got my coupler from zzp and it came with the sealer, the oil ,and a big syringe with a rubber tube to put it in with.you just have to click on that option when you buy it.

Yes, but they are options that are only on that page - and they call it 'silicone'...

I could look on the tube and see exactly what i is but so far its not leaking.Overall i'm impressed with the service i've got from zzp.

Ok so on Monday I replaced the coupler and supercharger oil. I sealed it with the anaerobic sealant. I did the whole job at a friends house, so I was only able to let it sit for two hours. When I got home a bit later I had a leak, it's dripping underneath the sc. The puddle is small but consistent. Did I drive too soon? I'm gonna buy more sc oil from the Buick dealership in town today but I'm wondering if I should use anaerobic sealer again and let it sit longer or go with some rtv?

Did you torque the bolts to the correct value? I've had mine off twice and used no sealer at all - no leaks. Very odd. Did you drop or damage the snout somehow?

That 1 bolt on the snout that bolts to LIM....ya' know that only one the faces down. If you by chance tightened that bolt first before tightening the rest could cause the snout to not seal correctly. You should leave that bolt loose and tighten it last.....

When we were takin off the snout we didn't see a bottom bolt and tried to take off tha bout bout moving it up and down thinking it was just hard to shake off. We finally took out the last bolt and it came off easy. I'm pretty sure we didn't do any damage to the snout. When we first sealed it and screwed the bolts back in it sat on my friends driveway for two hours without a drop. I drove it home( about a 2 and a half mile drive) then wen to the gas station in a differen car, came home and noticed the drip.

Quote :

When we were takin off the snout we didn't see a bottom bolt and tried to take off...

You think maybe the sealing surface could have gotten bent here?

I sure hope not. We tried but we didn't use any leverage or stick screwdrivers in to wedge em apart. Basically we tried wiggle it up and down to get it free. But it was barely moving. I'm gonna take the snout off again today and reseal it with rtv (the write-up author used rtv)but I'll take pics of the snout and post em to see what you guys think

With the snout off, take a thick metal ruler and hold it against the flat surface on the snout that seals against the blower. Should be able to tell if it's bent.

ok im gonna do that when i take the snout off and take pics of it. Dont you think if the surface was bent it would of been leaking oil during the two hours it sat on his driveway? i filled the sc with oil right after i screwed the bolts back in

Did you torque the bolts to the correct value? (torque wrench)