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 Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)

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BMD
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Sun Aug 22, 2010 5:44 pm

Abaddon wrote:

--- Use the silicone grease on the spark plug boots (comes with wire set). This will keep the boots from seizing themselves onto the plug and ripping the wire out next time around.

--- This is not mandatory, but using a little bit of Anti Seize on the plug threads is a good practice. This helps keep the threads clean and free of corrosion. Also aids in removal (the next time).


Good call Scott.
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LARRY70GS
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:40 pm

Dielectric grease in the boots is a good idea. Anti seize on the plugs can interfere with heat transfer from the plug to the head. The plugs for our cars are tapered seat. 1/16th of a turn past finger tight is all they need. People over tighten them.

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AA
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:13 am

I use a torque wrench on mine. Never used anti-seize, never had a problem.

Also have never used dielectric grease in the boots, and wires have lasted ~100k+ miles. Not a bad idea, though.

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highwaywarrior
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 2:42 pm

Best way to get the rear fckin sparkplug wires off? Anyone?
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 2:57 pm

highwaywarrior wrote:
Best way to get the rear fckin sparkplug wires off? Anyone?

It is VERY COMMON for the plug wires to fuse themselves to the plugs. Using dielectric grease inside the boots helps this. You may need to buy new wires because trying to get them off results in damaging them. The new ones are very reasonably priced at www.rockauto.com. Get the stock wires, they are excellent.

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98 Riviera SC3800  All stock except gutted air box.
1970 Buick GS455 Stage1, TSP built 470BBB, 602HP/589TQ
Best MPH, 116.06 MPH, Best ET, 11.54
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfT2tEO4XcU
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Abaddon
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 3:07 pm

If you're replacing them, just get a razor blade and split the boots down the length of the spark plug
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highwaywarrior
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 3:19 pm

They are not even a month old, im just trying to change from sto k pkugs to autolite 104, before my uley etc get here today....
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highwaywarrior
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 3:21 pm

They are not even a month old, im just trying to change from sto k pkugs to autolite 104, before my uley etc get here today....
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highwaywarrior
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 3:23 pm

Pulley*
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highwaywarrior
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 3:26 pm

I guess what im asking is, do i twist pull, squeeze... haha dirty mind
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Abaddon
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 3:45 pm

Try and twist them to break them free. DO NOT just pull....
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 4:12 pm

highwaywarrior wrote:
I guess what im asking is, do i twist pull, squeeze... haha dirty mind

...when you are twisting and pulling, be sure you have a grip on the terminal inside the boot. If not you're likely to rip the wire (if you need to reuse the wires).

...the rear plugs are supposed to have heat shields over the boots. You can grab both the heat shield and the boot and pull, the end of the shield near the engine will help you with the removal by pulling at the base of the boot.

...finally - if your rear wires do not have heat shields on the boots you are probably in for getting a new set of wires. The heat shields are about $7 each at a dealer. They are aluminum tubes with a permanent dielectric coating (looks like orange lacquer) on the inside and a little spring at the bottom. HOWEVER, at your local pick-and-pull if you are getting other things the yardguys will as often as not just let you have the things - You can get them off pretty much every transverse mounted GM V-6 engine off the cylinder bank nearest the firewall. Don't sneak them out of the yard, just declare them when you cash out. As often as not they will shrug and smile. Six of those suckers would be $35.- Clean them with anything you'd use to clean raw aluminum. I used a Brillo(R) type pad and warm water, let them air dry. Other cleaners should work too, I've used carb cleaner on the outsides of greasy ones. Inside I just wipe them out dry (usually just dust in there) or a shoprag doused with a little dry gas (Alcohol).

While you are at it pull some spare fuses - they are $3 - $5 a tin at the part store and again usually the yard guys will let you have them for nothing. Also if the yard prices are cheap enough and you have a place to keep them, you might want to grab a coil pack and the ignition module. Just remove the 6 bolts that hold the three coils on and the whole shooting match comes off. If you have a high mileage riv you will likely need those parts eventually.

Finally, you may need to use a little crocus cloth/wetdry sandpaper to clean the terminals on the coils. One terminal of each will likely be corroded from use if they were not protected by tune up grease in the first place. It will only take you a moment to check, and could save you a lot of aggravation.
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highwaywarrior
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 4:53 pm

I got them off... lol funny thkugh the front three were ruined... the douche who put them all on didnt use dielectric grease.. the bsvk three were relatively easier once i removed the engine hoist mount and the mount for engine cover.
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highwaywarrior
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PostSubject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)   Fri May 17, 2013 4:54 pm

So i will be getting.new wires anyway. Thanks guys
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