As far as repairs are concerned, it doesn't get any easier than this.

Tools Needed

- 7mm socket or wrench
- 5.5mm socket or wrench
- Possibly a Phillips screwdriver

The BMCM is located on the passenger side floor in the heater box. You will start by removing the 2 screws with the white arrows. They will be either 7mm or Phillips head. After removing the screws, that panel pulls straight down.


Now you can see the Blower Motor and the BMCM (white arrow). There are two 5.5mm screws holding the unit in. Simply unplug the 2 connectors, and remove the 2 screws. It will then slide down and pull out.



Reverse the procedure and your done! Very, very simple, yet pricey repair.

Great write up!

When I pulled the car out of a 2 year storage the fan was stuck on high whenever the battery was connected, fried.

Being pressed for time and $$ I found a caddy blower module on my used parts shelf, plugged it in, it worked even though there was one additional pin.

Next problem was mounting ,close but wrong shape, I took the bench grinder to it figuring I had nothing to loose, well it fit minus one bolt.

Perhaps I could save someone $$ with my experience.

If I knew....

Several years ago I was collecting blower modules from the junkyard for a used caddy,it was unmarked on a shelf, likely to be mid to late 90s, this is one of those GM pieces that seems to be everywhere at the junk yard , I used it because it looked similar.

I think i said this in another thread, but i replaced mine from a 97 Olds Aurora from a local junk yard for $10. It works great i didn’t notice any extra pins or anything different, but maybe they made them more durable or something.

It's a transistor - that appears to work as a motor speed controller for the blower motor. Printed on the component:

M (Motorola)
S141042
MEXICO
9637

You'll need to identify it as NPN or PNP or other transistor type, then match or exceed the rated wattage and provide an equal or better performing heat sink.

I opted to buy the part from a yard for $30 - has lasted over 150k miles so far.

I recently had the blower motor on my 1997 Riviera stop blowing. I did some research and found out it's often the blower module (which I've had people also call a resistor pack), and that the part was about $220 and impossible to find.

I grabbed one out of a 1995 Riviera at a scrap yard, changed it out, and still no love from the blower. I did some more research and found out some places that list compatibilities show that the part for a 95 is different from a 97. So what I'm trying to decide now is if the two should interchange, or if maybe the one I got from the scrapyard is bad, or if it could be something else entirely. Before it went out, it went on and off intermittently, if that helps. A garage checked it out and said there's just no power going to the blower motor, but finding out more would be $60 for a diagnostic.

Just bought this, and in the past month I've had to replace both front wheel bearing assemblies, the belt and the oil sending unit, so I'm hoping to be able to do this myself without any more high costs. Any help would be appreciated!

Part number for 95-96 is 12368388, 97-99 is 52470336, indicating they are different modules. Even if the 95-96 part fits, I would not expect it to work correctly. When I had this problem (intermittent HVAC operation), I replaced with a used module from the same year, and this fixed the problem.

Guys, I said earlier in this thread a module out of a late 90s caddy has one more pin then needed, needed trimmed but seems to work EXACTLY as the correct unit. 10,000 miles and counting since I did this in my daily driver a 98 riv.

jsm, you describe a failing motor not a failing module, rap your motor with a hammer handle a few times to stimulate things, cycle the key and try again.

Good point, Ed.

jsm, do you still have your 1995-96 module? Can you take a picture, or give any information from the device case? We may be able to compare to the newer part in order to confirm what Ed is saying.

Thanks for all the tips so far, guys. I went ahead and just bought another salvage replacement, this one from a '97 Aurora (exactly the same part number and everything), and still no go. So I'm trying to decide where to go from here.

Ed, I'm going to give that a shot tonight, but I had a garage look over it just a little, and they said it's definitely an electrical problem of some sort (I guess they tested the motor). I've been using these guys through three different cars now, so I'm trusting them to not get it wrong - though I'm going to feel pretty dumb if I'm wrong.

Did you bother to check the 10A HVAC Blower Motor Fuse in the IP fuse block??

Yep. The garage said they had, but I checked just to be safe since it's an easy thing to look at. I checked the one that's on the inside, on the driver's side of the car. That's good, unless there's another fuse or relay I don't know about.