Write-Up: Custom Rear Adjustment Links

It's a bit of a struggle to read, but the concept is sound enough for us to use.

That trailing arm link you posted is for an arm that the Riv doesn't even have. We have Lower Control Arms in the rear, Grand Prixs don't. That's why it's called a "Trailing Arm".

I know we don't have it, but shouldn't the idea be the same for us to use? The only foreseeable issue is the length, the trailing arms are probably shorter than the adjustment links.

matt270avian wrote:

I know we don't have it, but shouldn't the idea be the same for us to use? The only foreseeable issue is the length, the trailing arms are probably shorter than the adjustment links.

They are wayyyy shorter. They only go from where our LCM mounts at the body, then to the knuckle. So, literally only the length of the LCM.

So we couldn't just grab 2 of these (longer ones):

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/countylinereg%3B-adjustable-top-link-cat-1-extra-long

or

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/countylinereg%3B-adjustable-top-link-cat-2

Since they come with pretty much everything needed except the bolts?

As long as bolt hole size and what-not is the same, I don't see why not. I just went out with a tape measure....it's roughly 23" from the center stud to the tie rod. The only problem I see with trying those is the angle that it will be at on the tie rod side. Our lateral arms have a bend in them to fix the angle problem. If the angle/travel of that ball socket isn't enough, the rear toe would go extreme negative with extended suspension travel upwards. Like going over a hump.

I've developed an occasional clunk in the rear. I jacked up the rear and couldn't find any obvious culprits, other than these end links. Everything feels tight and I can't reproduce the clunk by shaking stuff.

So these end links are no longer available anywhere?

I'll PM Turtleman and see if he's willing to make a set of rods but it doesn't sound like it. Unfortunately, I can't ream or weld like robotennis61.

Jack the R wrote:

I've developed an occasional clunk in the rear.  I jacked up the rear and couldn't find any obvious culprits, other than these end links.  Everything feels tight and I can't reproduce the clunk by shaking stuff.  

So these end links are no longer available anywhere?

I'll PM Turtleman and see if he's willing to make a set of rods but it doesn't sound like it.  Unfortunately, I can't ream or weld like robotennis61.

I think the rear arms with links are still available from rockauto...

I wouldn't have thought to look for them under "control arm."

There's "Genuine GM," that doesn't have the end link, for $156 and $164 dollars.

Then there's Dorman for $25 each - Link

Then there's Mevotech for $24, with a different design end link.  I don't know how this is supposed to work - Link

Turtleman's looking into it though so perhaps that's the route I'll go with.

The Mevotech link is maybe a mistake on RockAuto's part, I think it's the style used on the later G- and H- body GMs (Lucerne). I'd ignore it. I bet the Dormans are fine.

I got the Dorman's in today, interestingly enough they are a one piece design, with no adjustability at the end link. Given all the horror stories of aligment techs breaking the end links, I think the Dorman may be an "improved" design. It looks a little beefier than the GM part. It's wider, but I haven't compared the depth yet. I think this is the reason why we can't get the original GM part anymore - it's a bad design and this is the upgraded replacement design.

I'm getting ready to put the new adjustment links on. I'm going to have to set the toe to a base useable amount so I can take it to an alignment shop. Is there a special tool for getting at the head of the cam bolts? It's too tight for a regular socket wrench.

New links are almost on. The FSM says to tighten this nut down to 88 ft/lbs, then half a turn, but the amount of squash in the boot is alarming me already, and the nut hasn't begun to tighten up yet. Does this seem right?

Being this is a non stock part, I think stock torque specs go right out the window. Tighten it down so there is no play and call it done.

Here's what the Dorman looks like when it hasn't been cinched down -



I started cranking down on the driver's side and noticed that the nut was spinning the ball joint instead of screwing onto the threads.  The tip of the ball joint has a hex head, so I was able to put a socket on that and tighten the nut down with an adjustable wrench.  I didn't have this problem with the passenger side.

I tightened the driver's side until the boot began to deform -



I would have liked to have had at least one thread visible under the nut, but this is where it's at -



This appears to be a lock nut.   I doubt it will back off, and if it does I imagine I'll get a few clunks of warning before it comes off.  I'm not too worried, but I'm not happy either.

I backed the passenger side off, and here's where it is now -



I don't like the way it's deformed.  Maybe I should knock the link out and try to fix it, but I may have to drop the back of the suspension support to get the link back in the control arm again.  

Anyway, I carefully marked the positions of the cam bolts before removing them, and put them back into the same place -



The Dormans may have been ever-so-slightly longer than the length the stock adjustment links were set at.  Say, a 1/16" or so.  I may have a little more toe-in now, but I'm hoping it will be the same amount of toe-in on each side.  This adjustment can't be too exacting at any rate, given the way the suspension support floats around on those rubber bushings.  Robotennis was right, the toe is going to constantly be changing as the car goes down the road.

...Robotennis has a visceral practical understanding of suspension geometry and operation. It's uncanny.

That's what happens when you do things instead of just talking about it.

Jack the R wrote:

That's what happens when you do things instead of just talking about it.  

I appreciate that he shares with us.

After a fair amount of miles put on the robo racecar adjustment link solution, I have no complaints about it really. I'm not running it on the new riv yet - stock stuff is still fine since that car's not rotting like the old one was, but i'd definitely go for it again. I would probably get fancy and get the aluminum heims though since i'm noticing the steel ones have lost their tightness anyway between the ball and the housing.

Or did. I suspect he's moved on and his Riv has been crushed for a while now.

turtleman wrote:

After a fair amount of miles put on the robo racecar adjustment link solution, I have no complaints about it really. I'm not running it on the new riv yet - stock stuff is still fine since that car's not rotting like the old one was, but i'd definitely go for it again. I would probably get fancy and get the aluminum heims though since i'm noticing the steel ones have lost their tightness anyway between the ball and the housing.

How did it affect the ride?

I didn't notice any difference at all but as a disclaimer i don't think i'm too handling-conscious

Why would you do it again if you can't tell the difference? Because it looks fancy? It does look fancy, I can't argue with that.

Jack the R wrote:

Why would you do it again if you can't tell the difference?  Because it looks fancy?  It does look fancy, I can't argue with that.

I do think it would make a difference if you get the solid control arm bushings and maybe solid or at least harder insulators for the rssa like robo did. But for me i just prefer it as a replacement option to the stock style. With a lot of these oem parts supplies dwindling, i'm inclined towards making very available universal parts work out.

Is it possible to just replace the outer link with a spherical ball joint? The bushings in my stock inner adjustment links look like they're still good.