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 I/P 2 fuse

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Rivillac
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Rivillac

Name : Kevin
Location : NC
Joined : 2011-06-06
Post Count : 102
Merit : 13

I/P 2 fuse Empty
PostSubject: I/P 2 fuse   I/P 2 fuse EmptyMon Jun 06, 2011 9:41 pm

Hello, all.

I just bought my Riviera, and the only problem I have been having is the I/P 2 fuse pops as soon as the radio is turned on. I tried bumping up from a 10a to a 15a, it only seemed to make it pop faster.

It seems that the only three things powered by this circuit are the radio, the steering wheel controls, and the power antenna, I have isolated all three of these things and even with each individual item isolated, the fuse still blows.

My question: Is there anything else powered by that circuit that could be shorting out and popping the fuse? My next course of action is to trace wires under the dash and look for a short, or pull the head unit out of the dash to check it, however I can't seem to get the link to function on the dash removal write-up. Any help on that front would be appreciated too!

Thanks for your input!
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albertj
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albertj

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Location : Finger Lakes of New York State
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I/P 2 fuse Empty
PostSubject: Re: I/P 2 fuse   I/P 2 fuse EmptyMon Jun 06, 2011 11:01 pm

Rivillac wrote:
Hello, all.

I just bought my Riviera, and the only problem I have been having is the I/P 2 fuse pops as soon as the radio is turned on. I tried bumping up from a 10a to a 15a, it only seemed to make it pop faster.

It seems that the only three things powered by this circuit are the radio, the steering wheel controls, and the power antenna, I have isolated all three of these things and even with each individual item isolated, the fuse still blows.

My question: Is there anything else powered by that circuit that could be shorting out and popping the fuse? My next course of action is to trace wires under the dash and look for a short, or pull the head unit out of the dash to check it, however I can't seem to get the link to function on the dash removal write-up. Any help on that front would be appreciated too!

Thanks for your input!

suggest you look for chafed wires in the steering column and in the wiring to the antenna (and any hint that your Riv was wrecked and repaired/rebuilt). You can use a voltmeter to check the hot line to the antenna for shorts to ground with the power off.

my wild guess is a problem in the line to the power antenna or a problem in the antenna itself. The radio tries to raise the antenna whenever you turn it on whether you need it or not. An internal short in the antenna motor would take your fuse out each time you turn on the radio. A short to ground in the hot line to the antenna would take the fuse out each time you turn on the radio.

Albertj
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Rivillac
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Rivillac

Name : Kevin
Location : NC
Joined : 2011-06-06
Post Count : 102
Merit : 13

I/P 2 fuse Empty
PostSubject: Re: I/P 2 fuse   I/P 2 fuse EmptyMon Jun 06, 2011 11:12 pm

Quote :


suggest you look for chafed wires in the steering column and in the wiring to the antenna (and any hint that your Riv was wrecked and repaired/rebuilt). You can use a voltmeter to check the hot line to the antenna for shorts to ground with the power off.

my wild guess is a problem in the line to the power antenna or a problem in the antenna itself. The radio tries to raise the antenna whenever you turn it on whether you need it or not. An internal short in the antenna motor would take your fuse out each time you turn on the radio. A short to ground in the hot line to the antenna would take the fuse out each time you turn on the radio.

Albertj

I should also have mentioned that during the brief times I have been able to get the system to function, all three components worked as they were suppoed to. I even completely disconnected the antenna with the same result.

I believe you're right about checking for chafed wires. I just need to figure out how to get the dash apart without ME blowing a fuse! headbutt

Thanks!
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albertj
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albertj

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Location : Finger Lakes of New York State
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I/P 2 fuse Empty
PostSubject: Re: I/P 2 fuse   I/P 2 fuse EmptyMon Jun 06, 2011 11:21 pm

I just read your other post. Did not know the windshield washer switch was inop.

Given that I'd be looking in the column for chafed wire, easy way to do that is start from the pedals and work up, it's obvious how to pull the knee panel under the dash once you are down there. It also could be coincidence that you have a bad wire to antenna and a broken multifunction switch in the column, the MF switches are not cheap.

As far as getting the dash apart there are instructions on this site but thinking about the troubleshooting you might want to get a manual. Try eBay.

Albertj
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LARRY70GS
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LARRY70GS

Name : Larry
Age : 63
Location : Oakland Gardens, NY
Joined : 2007-01-23
Post Count : 1686
Merit : 111

I/P 2 fuse Empty
PostSubject: Re: I/P 2 fuse   I/P 2 fuse EmptyTue Jun 07, 2011 6:34 pm

[quote="Rivillac"]
Quote :

I believe you're right about checking for chafed wires. I just need to figure out how to get the dash apart without ME blowing a fuse! headbutt
Thanks!

I believe the link to taking the dash panel off no longer works unless I'm missing something. They make you pay for the instructions now. http://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm/stereoremovalBuickRiviera95_99P.htm


In any case, I'll try and describe it as best I can.

First step is to remove the filler panel under the dash ledge. It is held in by little plastic anchor clips. If you look at the anchor clip, there is a small center pin. Use a small phillips screw driver or awl to push the pin in one click. Then grab the clip, and it will pull right out. To install the anchor clip, push the small pin from the back side 2 clicks so that the pin is now above the flat side of the anchor clip. Install the anchor clip in the filler panel, and push the pin flush with the head. Very simple once you do it.

Now pull down on the filler panel, and pull it rearward, and it will come out.


Now open the doors. There are side panels that pry off. The driver's side is easy. The passenger side is held in by one 7mm screw that you can only see if you open the glove compartment. After removing that screw, the panel pries off like the driver's side. Just be gentle, both panels have plastic tabs that can break.

Behind each panel is a 7mm screw that holds each end of the dash by a strap. Remove these.

If you look up at the top of the dash, under the top ledge, right where the front edge of the filler panel was, there are about seven 7mm screws across the length of the dash, that need to be removed. After that, push up on the dash ledge, and the dash panel will pull out. It helps if the steering column is tilted all the way down. Remove any electrical connection from the back of the dash panel, and you can remove it completely.

One thing to remember. The dash panel has tabs on top that must go BEHIND the tabs for the upper dash ledge. It is easy to put them in front. It will bolt up but the holes in the filler panel will not line up for the anchor clips.

Hope you can follow that, and it helps.

_________________
98 Riviera SC3800  All stock except gutted air box.
1970 Buick GS455 Stage1, TSP built 470BBB, 602HP/589TQ
Best MPH, 116.06 MPH, Best ET, 11.54
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHCda-t_Jls
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Rivillac
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Rivillac

Name : Kevin
Location : NC
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Post Count : 102
Merit : 13

I/P 2 fuse Empty
PostSubject: Re: I/P 2 fuse   I/P 2 fuse EmptyTue Dec 20, 2011 11:07 am

I forgot all about this. Just wanted to pass along that I fixed this problem when I took the console apart to clean the cupholders and found a penny in the CD player. It had obvious arc marks where it had been creating shorts. Took it out and haven't had a bit of trouble since.

The moral of the story: Don't store change in your CD player!
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