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 High idle and Cruise 'idle'...

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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: High idle and Cruise 'idle'...   Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:39 am

Andysdorm wrote:
I have no idea about the code. Its a 1995 and my OBD1 and OBD2 readers are useless.

Gotta find you a code reader at least. At the age of these cars it really could just be that you fixed the problem (MAF) and it was just time for something else to die. Don't wig out (yet), it will take some doing but it will all work out. My guess is thing to do is look on this site for the names of the OBD 15 readers people use/recommend and check eBay. As for eBay, they publish records of transaction prices. You can type the name of an item and search for info on past transactions. That will tell you what about they are selling for no kidding. Then you can just wait until one comes up for sale and make the seller a reasonable offer. Also you will find a couple folks on eBay who make their living buying and clearing out use equipment. Send those sellers a PM and make them a reasonable offer on the low side for the code reader if they come across one in the next say 30-60 days. They will probably take that offer because it is a quick flip --money now trumps money later--and you will save $$.

Albertj
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Andysdorm
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PostSubject: Re: High idle and Cruise 'idle'...   Fri Sep 09, 2011 5:30 pm

So I took out the back seat an opened the hood just to survey the vista of my bad lands.

I was hoping to remove the negative connection from the battery for 10 mintues to clear out the codes but it is attached by a hex nut and I'm not sure if I'd get zapped by playing around with the naked connection. So I left it alone and put the seat back in.

Looked at the throttle body to determine what kind of hoses come off of it. One of my previous problems was a rare stall of the engine when I was stopped in idle.

This Labor Day weekend I drove the Riv 110miles roundtrip to my GF's house. I didn't use it for 4 days but it didn't seem to have a problem when I resumed driving it.

BUT...I was a little apprehensive when sitting at the stoplight next to my GF's house. It was pretty long and I was very aware of the tach and feeling of the engine, it changed slightly but wasn't as bad as it used to be. The tach remained at 1. I'm just gun shy that it will stall again. But I haven't noticed it since Labor Day even after the CELight it seems to act right.

I've heard the rare stalling issue could be a hose leak, which is believable considering the age. And if you know where it is and have the right tools, it seems easy to fix. Diagnosing the issue is another project in itself. The commonly used method could set yourself on FY'AH!
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albertj
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PostSubject: Re: High idle and Cruise 'idle'...   Fri Sep 09, 2011 7:31 pm

Andysdorm wrote:
So I took out the back seat an opened the hood just to survey the vista of my bad lands.

I was hoping to remove the negative connection from the battery for 10 mintues to clear out the codes but it is attached by a hex nut and I'm not sure if I'd get zapped by playing around with the naked connection. So I left it alone and put the seat back in.

Looked at the throttle body to determine what kind of hoses come off of it. One of my previous problems was a rare stall of the engine when I was stopped in idle.

This Labor Day weekend I drove the Riv 110miles roundtrip to my GF's house. I didn't use it for 4 days but it didn't seem to have a problem when I resumed driving it.

BUT...I was a little apprehensive when sitting at the stoplight next to my GF's house. It was pretty long and I was very aware of the tach and feeling of the engine, it changed slightly but wasn't as bad as it used to be. The tach remained at 1. I'm just gun shy that it will stall again. But I haven't noticed it since Labor Day even after the CELight it seems to act right.

I've heard the rare stalling issue could be a hose leak, which is believable considering the age. And if you know where it is and have the right tools, it seems easy to fix. Diagnosing the issue is another project in itself. The commonly used method could set yourself on FY'AH!

Typically one would don safety glasses (they are like $5 a pair at home centers/walmart/hardware stores) then disconnect the negative connection first and tuck the cable out of the way. Negative terminal is where the electrons come from. As long as you are in there, disconnect the positive cable next and clean both battery terminals using a battery terminal cleaner. Cleaning the terminals is one reason for the safety glasses - usually you need to use a wire brush or if there is corrosion, a saturated solution of baking soda in water. Reasons - wire brush tends to flick fragments. Baking soda tends to bubble and spatter when it contacts acid residue.

Disconnecting the battery is not a big deal if you do it as indicated above. It's when you undo the positive terminal first that you tend to get the most sparks.

Oh yeah - - when you reconnect the battery, reconnect the negative cable last.

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