Ignition Switch problems....

I just joined this board for info re: my starting problem. I have narrowed it down to the IGNITION SWITCH in the steering column. I believe the switch is worn and intermittently prevents the car from going through the "checkout sequence" (i.e. airbag, security, lights flashing, etc.). If I press the key into the column, SOMETIMES, I can get it to catch. If the sequence simply begins, the engine will start. Otherwise, it will crank and not start. There is no combo of temp / humidity / that points to anything else. I've had the car looked at, but electrical probs scare all but the most brave / crazy.

The ignition switch is indeed hard to diagnose. Sometimes it'll start and run fine, sometimes it won't start at all. It's not that hard to do and worth trying if you have intermittent no-starts.

Ok my ignition lock is not working right its 100 @ advance auto for a new on but they say I have to reprogram my computer cause iwe. Have chips in our keys how do I do this reprograming of the theft system r whateva Blown when I hit a hard bump the key flips back off and the steering wheel locks up almost got in a bad accident three days ago HELP

first thing i would do is take apart the steering column,and poke around,see if you find anything out of the ordinary.seems weird that it would lock up after hitting a bump while driving. sounds like its maybe a broken pin or something like that.

Your sentences kind of run together, but I gather that they think you need a new Ignition Lock Cylinder, and not a new Ignition Switch...

However, you don't have to reprogram your security system (in fact, you can't...) You just need to get new keys for the new Lock Cylinder that have the same resistor-pellet in them as your old keys. There are probably codes stamped into the keys, but any GM dealer or qualified locksmith can simply use an ohmmeter to check your old pellets and then cut new keys from the appropriate blanks. Mine, for example, are 2350 ohms...

Also, if the PASS module has never been replaced, the dealer can probably look up your key-pellets by the VIN. Either way, be prepared to show proof of ownership before they'll give you new keys.

Years ago, you used to have to go to the dealer to have keys cut.
You can price around a bit by calling the dealer first and ask them how much to cut your keys to the new lock cylinder. I don't know what they get to do it anymore.

Then call a couple of locksmiths that do the GM pellet keys, to match the resistance of your current keys, probably most of them by now and get prices.

You can also ask the locksmiths if they can get the replacement cylinders as well and if so, you may save a few bucks, but again, I'm just not 100% sure.

Rickw wrote:

Years ago, you used to have to go to the dealer to have keys cut.
You can price around a bit by calling the dealer first and ask them how much to cut your keys to the new lock cylinder. I don't know what they get to do it anymore.

But remember, the cylinder doesn't determine the pellet, it's the PASS module... So they still have to find the correct original resistor-blank before they cut it.

Eldo wrote:

Mine, for example, are 2350 ohms...

Also, if the PASS module has never been replaced, the dealer can probably look up your key-pellets by the VIN. Either way, be prepared to show proof of ownership before they'll give you new keys.

2350 ohms and mine is 890K ohms.

Quite a bit of difference. I didn't know they had that broad a range on these. Learn something new everyday.

I still haven't programmed (successfully) the spare key fob I bought off Ebay after buying the car.

I can't find it with the limited Search function we have here, but there was a thread that had ALL of the pellets on it - I think there were about 14 different R-Values...

I also remember researching it at the time, and the resistor-values were Mil-Spec - like less than 3 or 4 % variance...

I stand corrected mine is .890K or 8900 ohms.
Much different now that I saw the decimal point, Duh!!!!!

Rickw wrote:

I stand corrected mine is .890K or 8900 ohms.
Much different now that I saw the decimal point, Duh!!!!!

Well, you're closer, but .890K is 890 Ohms... 8900 would be 8.9K

Eldo wrote:

Rickw wrote:

I stand corrected mine is .890K or 8900 ohms.
Much different now that I saw the decimal point, Duh!!!!!

Well, you're closer, but .890K is 890 Ohms... 8900 would be 8.9K

How can that be. Doesn't the K = 4 decimal places.????

Never mind, I'm too tired to think straight, I guess.

You are correct Sir.

And I know how much you love to hear that.

Rickw wrote:

How can that be. Doesn't the K = 4 decimal places.????

Never mind, I'm too tired to think straight, I guess.

You are correct Sir.

And I know how much you love to hear that.

Yes, yes I do...

But to answer your question, K=1,000, ergo THREE decimal places...
1,000 meters = 1 Kilometer, 1,000 ohms = 1 KOhm, etc...

Hey, I don't tell YOU what to do with annular nozzles in a turbojet, do I??

And I know it's in the wrong thread, but here's one for both Rick and I to reminisce to:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlUigSXxgG8

Eldo wrote:

And I know it's in the wrong thread, but here's one for both Rick and I to reminisce to:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlUigSXxgG8

How did you know I wear a Blue "Double Breasted" Blazer when I go out and wear a rug when on the Cruise Ship, just for the Ladies.
Oh Baby Good By.........


The chicks just dig it.

Eldo wrote:

But to answer your question, K=1,000, ergo THREE decimal places...
1,000 meters = 1 Kilometer, 1,000 ohms = 1 KOhm, etc...

I never asked A Question.

I figured out the 3 decimal places and announced how stupid I was without your help.

But thank you anyways.

See You In September......

Eldo wrote:

Hey, I don't tell YOU what to do with annular nozzles in a turbojet, do I??

You don't have to tell me what I would do with a burner can right now.

Rickw wrote:

Eldo wrote:

Hey, I don't tell YOU what to do with annular nozzles in a turbojet, do I??

You don't have to tell me what I would do with a burner can right now.

Pure envy... I wish I could have been involved in the heyday of jetliners, etc...

thanks fellas i be so tired sometimes working 13 hour days but i will mess with it on saturday when iam off ill keep you guys posted

Sorry for diluting your Topic somewhat.
Rick

its kool you guys help meout a lot

i have a 98 Riv. one day my car wouldn't stay running because the key would not hold in place. i decided to replace the ignition lock and ignition switch since i had to open up the dash anyways i figured it was best to do both. it fixed my problem and everything works but they key notification sound.. when i open the door, i hear the ding / beep telling me that there is a key in the ignition and its not. when i did the install i did hook up both the wires that were on the ignition lock, but they were both black and not labeled. Did i install them backwards or is there some thing else i might have missed?

walkin wrote:

i have a 98 Riv. one day my car wouldn't stay running because the key would not hold in place. i decided to replace the ignition lock and ignition switch since i had to open up the dash anyways i figured it was best to do both. it fixed my problem and everything works but they key notification sound.. when i open the door, i hear the ding / beep telling me that there is a key in the ignition and its not. when i did the install i did hook up both the wires that were on the ignition lock, but they were both black and not labeled. Did i install them backwards or is there some thing else i might have missed?

...my initial guess is take the clamshell off (the cover to steering column) and check your splices for an "open"

...my second guess is that you did not use the riviera-specific ignition switch and it won't work right until you do - see rockauto.com for part number and to do price comparisons - 26050290 is GM's # for the keyswitch and 26030594 for the electrical switch. These were specific to the '95 - '99 Riviera and Olds Aurora. Other keyswitches and electrical switches that fit the Saginaw columns may *fit* but the electrical switches will not *work* unless you have a factory manual *or* the old switch's wiring to go by to rewire them, and a wiring terminal kit.

So.... you wanna tell us what you actually did?

thanks for the website, i haven't seen that one before. i bought the parts from Autozone.com
keyswitch
Switch

they were both listed for my 98 Riv. as far as "splicing". i didn't splice into anything. the 2 wires coming off the ignition cylinder had small male ends on them. i traced them down to the connector on the inside of the firewall that was attached with the ignition switch. i pushed the old wires connected to the old cylinder out of the connecter and then push in the new ends from the new cylinder into the connector.

both wires were black and had no markings on them so i assumed it didn't matter which order they went in. i just assumed that they were there so when the key was put in the cylinder, it completed the circuit and when the key is out of the cylinder, the circuit was open. as far as i remember there wasn't anything specified in the FSM on which wire was which.

the car runs fine and everything works, just the chime comes on when the door is open and there is no key in the cylinder so i would assume that the cylinder is for the Riv and not another car. i took the keys that came with the cylinder and had new ones cut with the correct pellet that matched my old keys.

one thing that did happen is the place i had the keys cut, hey cut 1 that had the correct pellet and one that had a pellet that didn't match my car. when i tried to start it with that one it seemed like it disabled the system. i had to wait 5-10 min and then i could start it with my other key. i dont remember if the chime was happening prior to that...

do you know if the chime is a separate speaker or does it play through the stereo speakers?

The black wires off the keyswitch don't matter AFAIK.

Did you actually replace the other switch, too?

All I can say is go back and check your work, If you do not have an 'open' it may be one or another wire is accidentally shorted to ground. check for chafed wires near the steering shaft and at the tilt-wheel joint.

I know it's a pain but really it sounds like you gotta check.

Albertj