Transmission slow to shift - any ideas???

1st thru 3rd were present and functioning - although I did notice when I chose just to pop it in to 3rd gear and drive like that - it seemed to shift at a later point than before. I read somewhere on here or maybe another site that higher shift points is normal when it's not in 4th/OD. R&R is coming regardless. I'm just awaiting the diagnosis right now.

I really don't think it makes a difference shifting from 1-2-3 when in 3rd lock-out. I don't notice on mine anyway, You may notice a different feel because TCC locks-up in 3rd as well as in 4th, but it's not very noticeable when in OD.

Got the car back yesterday. Seems to shift awesome. They said there was a part in there that was supposed o be pulling 20 lbs of pressure but was only achieving about 12. That was just one problem. Anyway, pretty expensive deal but for the most part, I'm happy.

I have all the parts they changed out and I'll be posting pics shortly but I wanted to throw something out at you guys. I noticed a vibration at startup and it continues up until around the 800-1000RPM range (in park). They did replace the rear mount as well but I'm a little concerned. It's minimal but I have to take it back to be re torqued and topped off so I'll probably bring it up.

It took a little longer to get back because they said the Torque Converter was out of balance. Could this vibration be the same thing? I never noticed it before the tranny rebuild. Could the new mount do this? What say you guys?

It's the rear mount causing it, IMO. As our cars age, the interiors tend to loosen up, and things rattle more easily. Replacing the old, squishy rear mount with a solid new one allows some extra vibration to enter the cabin. There is some evidence the aftermarket mounts are a bit firmer, too. Best thing to do is hunt down the source of the noise and tighten or insulate the area of concern.

That's what I was thinking. I can't wait to post some pics of the parts I have - leads me to believe that the best course of action with the 4t65e transmission is to rebuild prior to that 4th hub going out. There's alot of parts I could have saved if I didn't let it go like it did.

playa wrote:

price quote $1900 to R& R and additional costs if hard parts need replacing like gears, shafts, butt lube.

Damn! I've been hoping thing will be cheaper in Oregon... I've been holding out on replacing the top on the Wildcat until I get up there.
(Well, at least the electricity isn't 30 cents/KWh)

So I return to the shop tomorrow and I found a couple things that concern me. Some are worse than others but I need confirmation of what I'm seeing before I bring these up.


Tranny lines. Obviously they're supposed to be mounted somewhere.



This shows what I believe should be a bolt but alas, there is nothing. Located topside at about the 1 oclock position of the transmission case. Should there be a bolt there?



Again, tranny lines left unfastened



This has me a little concerned. Front Transmission mount, lower bolt. Should there be a nut there.
I still have a vibration at about the 1500-2000 RPM range and at 65MPH, a pretty significant and continuous shudder. What do you guys think?

front mount looks OK

check rear mount and there are 2 more - a 'can' on the front of the engine and a transmission mount on the bell housing some wheres. I don't have pics.

I am thinking the mount on the bell housing usually does not get changed out and probably finally dies.

I am thinking the rest of that loose stuff needs bolted down.

Those look like power steering lines. The line running around the subframe is the PS "Cooler". The tab you showed on the transmission - not exactly sure which one you are showing, but there are two alignment holes that do not have bolts in them. There should be 5 visible bolts from the drivers side, the sixth bolt comes in from the passenger side behind the motor. If they were going to leave one out, it would have been that passenger side bolt commonly referred to as the "Bastard Bolt" because people don't know it's there, and can't pull the transmission after thinking they have removed all the bellhousing bolts.

The PS Cooler lines just thread into the subframe with those sheetmetal screws you see. Not a huge deal but you could even hold them up with a tie wrap just to ensure they don't drag on the ground. (not likely to happen)

Thanks for the correction - I was in a hurry while posting because I had to get an answer before I left the next morning. I don't know. Sometimes a person can convince themselves there's an issue even though it's exactly how it should be.
Anyway, took it in. Mentioned the vibration. The couldn't really duplicate it so I guess I'll let it ride and see what happens. Still planning on changing the front mount and maybe swapping the wheel bearings (they've never been done yet).
I think part of my issue is that when I went to pick the car up the first time, I noticed foam hanging down in the front and found out they'd forgot to put the skid plate back on. Let that be a lesson, first impressions are so important. Pics of the parts still to come.