motorvac A+

I just went over to my buddy's school and used the Motorvac on my engine and it worked great!


For those of you who are not familiar with it, it hooks up directly to your fuel rail and you run your engine from the fuel / cleaning solution for 30min to an hour and it cleans rails, injector, valves big time, combustion chambers, head ports, basically everything that the fuel touches.

My engine has 158k miles on it and I complained about a problem of slight hesitation from idle to load, the engine would have some difficulty holding a steady speed under feathered gas, and it would, on a seldom occasion, die. I suspected my tps of having a bad spot but since I did the motorvac, response has been perfect hot and cold in all conditions so far.

costs 12 bones for the bottle of solution if you have the advantage of the facilities to do it or it typically costs 100 to have it done

Sounds cool. Maybe i'll try it sometime

This is like the top engine clean you can have done at the dealer, right?

Its basicly the same as doin the sea foam in the booster hose !! But the sea foam cost less than payin for sum1 ta do a motor vac !!!

What is better for your engine?

Question should be , what is better on ur pocket book. Nah, I used to do the motor vacs all the time for Goodyear and they say(motor vac) it makes a 75% noticeable differance !!! Wich imo is true.

between a good seafoam job motorvacing, the motorvac will do a much better job on the fuel rails and injectors than seafoam can since you can't inject seafoam right into the fuel system. A coworker of mine who works as a tech at a chevy dealer said they use a motorvac there and he has unsiezed injectors with it. as for top end, intake and everything, they should yield similar results. the motorvac runs for over a half hour so that works well because its a more prolonged cleaning and the potency is constant. (the solution/gas is actually hooking straight up to the fuel lines like its your fuel tank, whereas the seafoam is being bogged in through the most convenient vacuum hose and theres little control in its path)

If you don't have access to a motorvac for free, the seafoam is probably a better result : dollar bill ratio but do the motorvac if you can

Just did a motorvac treatment on my GF's regal (around $52 cdn or $42 US at canadian tire) and it made a tremendous difference. I had never had one done before on an L67, but have had great results with other cars.

The car has much smoother response, and the driver's information centre's AVG MPG has been steadily been going up since. It's gone up around 2.4.mpg since the treatment. It's probably not ultra-reliable, but it's the best I have considering my GF does not monitor gas mileage. The car also idle's smoother. Note that the car only has 80000 miles, but it was owned by an old person before (whom I suspect used regular) and my GF is not a spirited driver. I'm fairly certain there was considerable carbon build-up in the engine.

I strongly recommend the motorvac treatment. I feel it is by far superior to seafoam. Hell, it even cleans your spark plugs.

Aside from that, I've been driving her car for about 4 days, fixing it up before I leave for another 5 months. I suppose that only makes sense if you know we live 200 miles apart (we aren't posted at the same base). The riviera definitely should have had a DIC and the firmer steering. Aside from the motorvac, I have done the following:

-installed GMPP handling kit which consists of a front and rear swaybar, tubular control arms and a STB. Involved a LOT of swearing as most of the bolts were rusted in place. VERY nice improvement. For those of you who haven't already, go out and buy a set of addco swaybars and a STB for your riv
- Tranny fluid change. I doubt it had ever been done.
- PS flush. I noticed the PS was behaving erratically on the drive to my place. With seemingly random effort feel. It also groaned more than I deemed normal. I thought it might not have had the rack recall that affected that year regal, but it had been taken care of. When I noticed the PS fluid looked like Guinness, I changed it. Problem fixed. The steering is velvety smooth and quiet now. If you've never changed the PS fluid on your car or don'T know if it's ever been done, stop reading this post and go do it. Now.
- Brake fluid flush. I hate this job. But it made a very nice difference. The old fluid was in pitiful condition. Also worth your while if you've never done it.
-cleaned the k&n filter (I did this after noticing the increase in MPG by the way)
-got rid of the stupid SES light. P0171. I reset it and it hasn't come back.
-rain-X'd the windshield. Go buy rain-x. NOW.
-Wash (underneath too)
-Wax
-Cleaned the inside. My GF has the bad habit of having a messy car, or rather of treating it like a storage unit. At some point, she obviously carried a plant, that spilled over as it was full of potting soil in the back.
- conditioned the leather seats
-ground off some rust and painted the not obvious places with black rust-proof paint. Did a few touch ups to 2 places where the paint flaked off and left bare metal with a colour-matched rattle can. I only let it dry for 4 hours though and had to drive home and now it's outside (-10 tonight) hopefully the paint will still cure and it'll still be a 5 footer. I just don't want it to rust until I get back and have more time to fix it properly.

All in all, I probably put 20 hours on the car this week.

Jason, did you happen to pull a plug after the cleaning? I was surprised to find them with a lot of yellow material coating the surfaces. Emailed the regional rep, who said it's leftover cleaning chemical that should burn off. Haven't rechecked it yet to see if that's true.

No. I don't think I'll have time to look before leaving. But please let me know how your plugs look next time you look.

Motorvac locations: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/info-reference-f50/motorvac-locations-t4129.htm