THANX HOPE THIS SITE WORKS OUT !!!

Just got my self a "98" super rivi.... 128K
stock horse power, boost, 1/4 mile times

I don't know much about these cars... usually a nissan person,...
curious about performance mods....??
boost controler?
intercooler.... front mount?
pulleys...
intakes....
computer chipping??
bigger injectors..
throttle bodies...
ect... hope someone can point me in the right direction...

Welcome! This is going to be a bit different from a Nissan.

Performance mods: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/Supercharged-3800-Tech-c2/Series-II-FAQ-f19.htm

Boost controller: No need. SC pulley size and your mods determine boost.

Intercooler: available from $800 range.

Pulleys: the one on the SC is key. Modular systems available for $120. 3.5" is a good start.

Intakes: we build our own!

Computer chip: they can be custom tuned, or you can do it on your laptop for not much more.

Bigger Injectors: not needed until you are running a 3.0" SC pulley, which is a ways down the road.

Throttle bodies: stock is pretty good up to a point. Another one that comes later on.

Read through the FAQ link above. Let us know if you have any questions!

Welcome to the forum!
Post some pics in the showroom.

wow thanx a mill.. will get pics up soon ... both to mod and 99rivman... ive read that stock hp is 240?? what are track times i can look foward too?? but thanx again...

As is, you should run a 15.5 sec 1/4 mile. With a few inexpensive parts and small adjustments, a flat 15 is very possible. It depends on your car's condition, your level of driving skill, and the weather. Our engines like cold air!

If you have the money, desire, and technical know-how, there's no reason why you can't have a reliable & daily driven 2-ton luxury coupe that runs low 13s.

Oh, and if you haven't noticed, the torque delivery is ultra-flat and very abundant, so it's not hard to surprise cars that are "supposed" to be faster than you on paper.

Welcome to the site! Goodluck with all your mods.

ok thats great... much appreciated.... just read about the gutted air box... extra (5hp) was to take about 1hr...and a lil more sc whine... done...
i did it with out breaking any part of the baffles ....and only like 10mins... took longer to find the right socket..LOL>..
so a good set of slicks for the track and i should see an easy 15sec.?? cool...

Aaron,

you said a few inexpensive parts and small adjustments... what do you recommend... ive read about this fwi?? is that like a fuel pressure regulator?? and who do you recommend for me to get a tune done around indianan?? as i dont have a laptop .. or a scan??

With slicks, you might be in the 14s, but I don't recommend them unless your only purpose for the car is racing. A couple of other things that don't take much time and $ are Autolite 605 copper spark plugs and a 180º t-stat from your local auto parts store. You can also do some track prep by lowering front tire PSI and removing some weight from the car (jack/spare), although I like to race "fully loaded" . FWI is a type of CAI (cold air intake). More on that here:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/Supercharged-3800-Tech-c2/Series-II-FAQ-f19/What-are-CAI-FWI-t29.htm

Welcome to the forum!
Post some pics in the showroom

AA wrote:

FWI is a type of CAI (cold air intake). More on that here:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/Supercharged-3800-Tech-c2/Series-II-FAQ-f19/What-are-CAI-FWI-t29.htm

You will get much more s/c whine with this.

are there aftermarket axles in case of breakage..LOL
i know dot approved slicks would help greatly...but i was just checking... thanx for the super fast responses from all you guys here...

welcome to the big riv family!

there are plenty of 3800 vendors but very few of them carry parts for our rare rivs, so if you snap an axel you will be buying gm replacement (very unlikely, as ours are much more duable than those on imports )
if you want to to some research on aftermarket engine parts then look at some of the GTP/w-body seller like zzperformance, intense and w-body store.

fwi.. got it.. thanx... has anyone experimented with use of other intakes for other cars, that would work as well??my goal one day is a dd in the low 13's ... anyway rob harlan fwi?? worth extra money or dyi fwi??
and you think the 180t-stat and 605 autolite great start??
As far as knock goes.. when does it become noticeable...before afc's become an issue or should i invest in one now...
where is the best place to start for the s/c pulley that will be noticeable...

thanx Mr. riviera...

superivi wrote:

fwi.. got it.. thanx... has anyone experimented with use of other intakes for other cars, that would work as well??my goal one day is a dd in the low 13's ... anyway rob harlan fwi?? worth extra money or dyi fwi??
and you think the 180t-stat and 605 autolite great start??
As far as knock goes.. when does it become noticeable...before afc's become an issue or should i invest in one now...
where is the best place to start for the s/c pulley that will be noticeable...

Rob only made 2 intakes I believe. He has one and Aaron has the other.

180* tstat and autolites are a must if your going to be modding so might as well get them done now. Change out the wires too if they haven't been changed recently.

Knock shouldn't be audible. If it is thats a problem. You should by a scanner as every car is different on knock.

A good way to drop the pulley sizes is to start at 3.6 or 3.5 and work your way down from there. Depending on how your car responds you can keep dropping it.

where do you recommend i get a scanner?
do you know of anyone that has used 3.5 or 3.6 pullys

there are quite a few different scanner choices depending on what you want it to do.
autotap is popular or DHP has a powertuner that will let you both scan and tune! $400 powrtunre. autotap is ~250 IIRC

several people have the 3.5 and 3.6 pulley mods but your size will depend on how much boost you want and what else you plan on doing.

i know you are all excited with your new ride and new found source, but
please take the time to read the FAQ and some of the mod posts in the
series II section.

Matthew... i want to go fast..LOL
but who doesnt...
scanners and tune?? wow... one thing at a time... plugs wires t-stat... and first mod (gutted air box)!!

superivi, there are good reasons to buy a scanner as your first mod, but no one wants to pay for one when a quick 20 hp can be had with a pulley swap. Like Matthew said, take things slow for now until you learn more about your car. That way, you won't have to worry about something breaking, or if it does, at least you'll know why it did.

Welcome to the forum, I think you'll like it here.

I bought my 98 last summer, and my first mod was to gut the airbox and swap in a drop-in K&N air filter. Otherwise stock, I hit the track this spring and clicked off a best of 15.33 @ 90.37. Not bad times with poor traction most runs.

This summer I've added AL605 plugs, 180 t-stat, and a 3.6 Pulley Boys modular SC system. Back to the track under terrible weather conditions, hot and humid, and couldn't do better than a 15.4, again with traction issues most runs. I have an LS1M scanner and had no KR issues when stock, haven't checked since my latest mods. At the track I ran a mix of a couple gallons of 92 plus 3 gal of 100 octane. 1/4 tank of gas is as much as you want.

This MORNING, I spent a couple hours porting my extra front exh manifold (thanks AA) and I can hardly wait to swap it on. Needs cleanup/paint first though. The stock front has unbelievable restriction at the openings, ridiculous casting flash to clean out. Alternatively, you can get a "PowerLog" front manifold from ZZP. It is a compromise between the stock cast iron manifolds, and going to headers. The rear exh manifold is a much less restrictive steel piece. I may do a Powerlog next year, but wanted to try a ported front first.

BTW, the LS1M is not in current production, but can be found used. It's a scanner/data logger only, no tuning. Great for checking on KR.

Another must-do: Replace your SC oil asap, unless you KNOW it has been changed in the very recent past. Common thinking these days is every 30k miles or so. Factory service schedule shows no change interval...

Good advice Dave. Maintenance before Mods.