Picked up badly neglected '99, need direction on everything

Hey guys. This is Dave in Charleston, SC. Just picked up a badly neglected '99 Riv for practically free. I am a mechanical engineer and longtime shadetree mechanic, and no stranger to pulling needy cars back from the brink, but this thing is a mess and I'm not even sure where to begin.

The good:
Engine runs strong, drives great, free of knocks and leaks (except valve covers)... 135k miles
Body is mostly free of rust, mild surface rust at base of B (?) pillars
Do not believe it's ever been wrecked

The meh:
Transaxle replaced 60k miles ago (PO accidentally threw it in reverse on the interstate.. no joke)

The ugly:
Seemingly a million electrical gremlins
Fusebox melted at AC and Horn fuses, so neither works (PO said alarm was going off intermittently, so he yanked fuses)
Power locks not working at all
Keyfob not working and only one set of keys
Passenger power window switch not working
Sunroof collapsed in and making gear-grinding noise-- is there a rebuild kit somewhere?
Trunk full of water--- sunroof issue?
Appears to be parasitic drain on battery. It is dated 2007, but it was holding a charge fine until parked 4 months ago.
No front brakes at all-- rears are trying their best-- Planning front rotors and ceramic pads, any suggestions?
Interior filthy and carpet trashed
Drivers door panel hanging loose for some reason

Any general wisdom or pushes in the right direction are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
Dave

For the electrical gremlins, check the flexible coupling in between the body and doors. Pull it back and look for broken wires, very common. That being said, troubleshooting anything electrical on these cars is very difficult without a factory service manual. Fortunately, they are usually available at a reasonable cost on E Bay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-Oldsmobile-Aurora-Buick-Riviera-Factory-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-Set-/151443915793?hash=item2342c2c411&vxp=mtr


The trunk typically leaks right at the seam where the hinges attach on either side of the trunk opening. I sealed it effectively with clear silicone after a thorough cleaning and drying.

Welcome to the site

x2 on what Larry said (all of it). I had the same trunk leak....a little urethane sealed it right up (upper left hand corner). There are a few wiring schematics posted around here for the issues you've mentioned.

The door panels have "hooks" on the lower part of them to hold it on. They lock into the lower door, and are bolted at the top by 10mm bolts. There's one behind the trim piece of the door handle itself, and don't exactly recall where the other one is. There's also a Phillips head screw right where the door panel meets the dashboard.
Chances are, someone didn't know how to take the door panel off and just pulled. BIG no-no

If the fuse box is that messed up, you need to take care of that before you search for a parasitic draw IMO.

Thanks guys. agreed on fuse box, will hit Ebay and/or scrapyard. Just wish I knew what caused it to melt in the first place, and which circuit (AC or horn/alarm). Glad to hear trunk is an easy fix, have done that same fix on other vehicles. Need to cover up sunroof till I can tear the headliner out to find the broken part... sagging in about 3/4 inch. Will check harnesses at doors.

Any good writeups on sunroof repair?

14years wrote:

Thanks guys. agreed on fuse box, will hit Ebay and/or scrapyard. Just wish I knew what caused it to melt in the first place, and which circuit (AC or horn/alarm). Glad to hear trunk is an easy fix, have done that same fix on other vehicles. Need to cover up sunroof till I can tear the headliner out to find the broken part... sagging in about 3/4 inch. Will check harnesses at doors.

Any good writeups on sunroof repair?

Well, instinct would point me towards the A/C circuit considering it has the most draw, but i suppose that if the horn was just blaring for 30 minutes it could heat up some wires real nice Who knows. You're probably the first person here ever posting an issue like that.

Nothing really on the moonroof. You can use the "SEARCH" tab in the header to help find posts.
I have the FSM pictures of the moonroof if you think they'd help you get a grasp on things before you start shredding the headliner. I can post them up tomorrow...

FSM clips would be great, thanks! I will pick one up eventually.

14years wrote:

FSM clips would be great, thanks! I will pick one up eventually.

I'd pick up the E Bay one,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-Oldsmobile-Aurora-Buick-Riviera-Factory-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-Set-/151443915793?hash=item2342c2c411&vxp=mtr

That's a screaming deal.

Yes, an FSM should be acquired.

Sunroof Glass Panel Replacement

Removal Procedure
Caution: When working with any type of glass or sheet metal with exposed or rough edges, wear approved safety glasses and gloves in order to reduce the chance of personal injury.

 1. Remove the three screws from the trough and shield assembly.
 2. Slide the trough and shield assembly to the rear.
 3. Cycle the glass panel to the vent position.
 4. Remove the 3 screws (1) from each side of the glass panel.
 5. Remove the glass panel.

Sunshade, Lifter Arm, Trough and Shield Replace

Sunshade Removal Procedure



 1. Remove the glass panel. Refer to Sunroof Glass Panel Replacement.
 2. Cycle the unit to the vent position.
 3. Slide the trough and shield forward.
 4. Slide the sunshade (1) forward.
 5. Lift and turn the front edge of the sunshade (1) in order to disengage the clips (3).

Sunshade Installation Procedure



1.   Slide the trough and shield (1) forward.
 2. Flex the sunshade (2) in order to clear the stops (3).
 3. Keeping the unit centered, slide the sunshade (2) to the rear.
 4. Slide the sunshade (2) forward.
 5. Install the glass panel. Refer to Sunroof Glass Panel Replacement.

Lifter Arm Removal Procedure
**Refer to above callout

1. Remove the glass panel. Refer to Sunroof Glass Panel Replacement.
 2. Cycle the unit to the rear until the lift pin is clear.
3.Remove the cover plates (4) on each side.
 4. Remove the 3 screws (8) on each side.



5. Cycle the unit (1) rearward in order to expose the openings in the track (2).
 6. Remove the front lifter guides (3) from the track (4).
 7. Cycle the unit forward in order to release the lifter arm from the trolley.

Lifter Arm Installation Procedure

1. Install the lifter arms (5).
 2. Install the cover plates (4).
 3. Install the machined screws (8).
 4. Cycle the trough and shield assembly (1) to the full rear travel position.
 5. Install the glass panel. Refer to Sunroof Glass Panel Replacement.

Trough and Shield Removal Procedure

1. Remove the glass panel. Refer to Sunroof Glass Panel Replacement.
 2. Cycle the unit to the rear until the lift pin is clear.
3. Remove the cover plates (4).
 4. Cycle the unit forward in order to expose the openings in the track (7).
 5. Remove the lifter arms (5) by sliding the arms to the rear.
 6. Lift out the arms through the openings in the track (7).
 7. Cycle the trolley forward.
Do not disengage the cable from the transmission.
8. Pull the trough and shield assembly (1) forward.
 9. Lift out the trough and shield assembly (1) through the opening in the track (7).

Trough and Shield Installation Procedure

1. Install the guide shoes of the trough and shield assembly (1) into the opening (7) in the track.
 2. Engage the guide shoes of the trough and shield assembly (1) in the slot on the track (7).
 3. Center the trough and shield assembly (1).
 4. Push the trough and shield assembly (1) into the housing until the assembly is seated.
 5. Install the lifter arms (5).
 6. Install the machined screws (8) in order to secure the cover plates (4).
 7. Cycle the trough and shield assembly (1) to full rear travel.
 8. Install the glass panel. Refer to Sunroof Glass Panel Replacement.


All "missing" pictures are the same picture with 8 callouts on it, which is why I didn't bother to post the same pic in all procedures. These are all how to get the glass/rail/lifter assemblies out, and can be done without removing the headliner. The motor/transmission assembly requires headliner removal. If it's grinding, I'd assume there's something wrong with the cable. Maybe later today I'll post that part of it all....

14years wrote:

Hey guys. This is Dave in Charleston, SC. Just picked up a badly neglected '99 Riv for practically free. I am a mechanical engineer and longtime shadetree mechanic, and no stranger to pulling needy cars back from the brink, but this thing is a mess and I'm not even sure where to begin.

The good:
Engine runs strong, drives great, free of knocks and leaks (except valve covers)... 135k miles
Body is mostly free of rust, mild surface rust at base of B (?) pillars
Do not believe it's ever been wrecked

The meh:
Transaxle replaced 60k miles ago (PO accidentally threw it in reverse on the interstate.. no joke)

The ugly:
Seemingly a million electrical gremlins
Fusebox melted at AC and Horn fuses, so neither works (PO said alarm was going off intermittently, so he yanked fuses)
Power locks not working at all
Keyfob not working and only one set of keys
Passenger power window switch not working
Sunroof collapsed in and making gear-grinding noise-- is there a rebuild kit somewhere?
Trunk full of water--- sunroof issue?
Appears to be parasitic drain on battery. It is dated 2007, but it was holding a charge fine until parked 4 months ago.
No front brakes at all-- rears are trying their best-- Planning front rotors and ceramic pads, any suggestions?
Interior filthy and carpet trashed
Drivers door panel hanging loose for some reason

Any general wisdom or pushes in the right direction are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
Dave

General wisdom:

Sunroof drains go thru A pillars. Based on my experience and my recall of what I've read, the trunk leak is usually the goofty body seams in the vicinity of the lower mount points for the trunk gas struts.

There is a standard parasitic drain on the battery. Part is the receiver for the keyless entry. Part is the system that automatically turns off the lights if you leave 'em on. Part is the clock in the radio. Part is the air suspension. That's why the standard battery is so huge.

You can make replacement hooks for the drivers door panel out of sheet steel stock, went on a metal brake, and cement/poprivet them to the door panel. The door panels become brittle over time so you may need relatively large backing washers or plates on the backside where you rivet.

As for the brakes, at 150,000+/- miles and 300,000+/- miles I overhauled my brake system. That means I replaced the MC, calipers, soft lines. Replaced the hard lines, back to the ABS motor, at about 250,000. Test your abs motor, be sure to change the brake fluid every year or so, so that it does not get too wet (if the fluid is coffee colored it is wet). If the fluid does not get wet then you probably won't have abs issues.

The horns are under the front fenders, behind the inner fender, and corrode. When hey corrode they short and all kinds of stupid stuff happens. I suspect you will need to replace them. The factory horns are cheap enough. What I did: I got three replacement horns from the local pick-n-pull junkyard (off a couple Cadillacs) and one off eBay - making a four-note chord that sounds like a freight train although not quite that loud (its loud and intense for a car).

You can get a great replacement carpet from Auto Custom Carpets in Anniston, Alabama. They do not show the Riv carpet on the web site but if you phone the plant you can likely get them to make you one. That said, you probably don't need one. use one of the household carpet shampooers, but instead of the carpet shampoo use a cleaner like Purple Power concentrate (get it at an auto parts store) in the shampoo well. It will leak (it will quit leaking when you switch back to regular shampoo) but it will clean just about anything but a burn out of the carpeting.

Passenger window issue may be the motor, not the switch.

You may need to repair the horn pad, when they wear out they blow all the time. There is an article on this site about how to do that repair.

Many of the electrical gremlins will jsut go away when you recharge or replace the battery. in any event be sure to use the factory-spec Group 79 battery. If you need to save $$ go to a junkyard and get one.

Albertj

Just an FYI, there is sunroof info here ...

Write-Up: Sunroof - Diagnosis and Repair

I'm pretty sure from what I looked at the '95 and '99 are pretty much the same, but maybe not?

Just thought I would mention it.

Guys, thanks for all the info. I have been on a lot of car forums going back 18 years, and in just two posts this has been the best of all of them. Great community and people here. Hope I can contribute something back soon. When I get around to dissecting the sun/moonroof, I will do a writeup with photos. I just drove the car around the parking lot-- have never driven it on the street, and holy crap I am impressed so far even with virtually no brakes.

I was wrong earlier-- it does not appear to be a horn fuse that burned up, apparently the horn relay toasted itself. The AC relay is there and working fine. I will get a new relay and see what the deal is with the horns. I have rebuilt horn pads in a couple of 80's Fords-- not my favorite thing to do but hopefully it's just a corroded horn.

Another thing I just noticed-- the driver side mirror is reddish and distorted, like the reflective backing is peeling off. I'll add that to the shopping list....

14years wrote:

Another thing I just noticed-- the driver side mirror is reddish and distorted, like the reflective backing is peeling off. I'll add that to the shopping list....

That is another common problem. The auto dimmer effect goes bad in the driver's side mirror and they turn reddish. The easiest fix is to by a redi-cut mirror glass and epoxy it over the stock glass. I did mine years ago. The mirrors are also heated and that still works. I guess it conducts through the glass effectively.

http://www.burcoinc.com/products/online_catalog/