Write-Up: Riv Dash and Door Removal

the dash pad?
if so there are 7 plastic fasteners under the lip that you have to get out. last time i bought new ones the parts guy told me to get them out you push the center in more and then itll pull out and you can reset and reuse them. then you take off the a pillar trim and i think it slide out after that

No, above that. The part you see from the windshield looking in. (If that's what you're talking about I didn't understand, sorry)

You take off that piece of plastic trim under the baseball brim on that dash pad as described by josh, there are a few screws that you will have to take out (5? itll be obvious which once once youre in there), then you pull off the pillar trim ( it just pops out if you pull/pry carefully), then the whole thing just kind of pulls outward from the dash. There will be a couple electrical connectors under there, and some real nasty semi-dissolved foam stuff.

Ah alright. The only thing I didn't have was the pillar trim pulled. I already knew you would have to pull the lower half out. I was expecting the foam just from what's come off of that black piece. Have to clean the mess it makes every time I take the dash off.

I've had it out maybe 15 times now in between swapping between 3 radios (OEM to single din, then again to put in the SWI, then again to fix an issue, then to swap in a new dash that was in better condition, then again to put the old one back with the woodgrain kit, then once more to put the OEM back in, single din back in, then the 7", then running the amp wires, then ONE LAST TIME to fix an issue with the wiring). That's just what I can remember.. Not to mention taking it off and putting it back to make fitment adjustments for the double din.

I can see why people just take the car to a shop to remove and replace the radio. I tried to read all the posts concerning this topic but it does not seem to be helping much. I went ahead and started tearing into my dash and now I wish I had not. Too much plastic that I like to break. I don't really see the big picture so I do things out of order. How do you get that main piece of dash, the one that goes all the way across and surrounds the instruments, separated from the piece above it? If you have an answer please treat me like an idiot and go slow. I need help!

Once you get the torx screws out, just pop out the dash starting at the bottom. Do not forget that there are 2 screws holding the dash in by the side, one under the fuse panel cover and the other behind a trim panel in the same place on the right side. To get the right side panel off there are a couple screws holding it in. Another thing to remember is that there are 2 plugs that go into the dash. The one that connects to the light switch should just pull out, and the one connected to the traction control switch has a tab that can easily be pressed in with a small screwdriver. The easiest way I have found to get the physical dash OUT is to flip it over and pull the bottom up first. Once you do it once you can do it over and over again in minutes.

jbeganny wrote:

I can see why people just take the car to a shop to remove and replace the radio.  I tried to read all the posts concerning this topic but it does not seem to be helping much.  I went ahead and started tearing into my dash and now I wish I had not.  Too much plastic that I like to break.  I don't really see the big picture so I do things out of order.  How do you get that main piece of dash, the one that goes all the way across and surrounds the instruments, separated from the piece above it? If you have an answer please treat me like an idiot and go slow. I need help!

That is one of the least favorite things I like to do, but I've done it several times. Here is my method:

1.) Remove the left and right dash covers. You will have to open the doors fully to gain access. The dash cover on the left should just pull off, It's held on by three metal friction clips that fit into holes in the dash and knee bolster. But be careful, there are two tabs located at the top that are easily broken. So pull from the bottom first. Also, this is the end cover with the fuse access door. That makes it a bit more fragile than the one on the Right side.

The Right dash cover comes off in a way similar to the Left side, except that there is a small screw that has to be removed from the bottom of the cover first. You can access that screw by opening the glove compartment and looking in the lower Right corner of the glove compartment door near the hinge.

2.) Behind each of the dash covers is a screw that attaches the dash fascia to the underlying structure via a metal tab. Remove each of these screws and set aside. It might be worth noting that bagging, and marking connectors and screws as they are removed is a good practice you may want to do.

3.) Next is the removal of a black valence that is located just under the dash tray and above the dash fascia. This valence is held on place by 8 (I think 8) black plastic connectors. In order to remove these connectors you'll need a small Phillips Head screwdriver or similar instrument that will allow you to poke the center rod in the connector.

Poke the center rods in so that they click once. The connectors can then be pulled out from the edge of the flange of each connector. Set aside the connectors. The valence can then be removed. Be sure to support the weight of the valence while removing it. Set it flat in a safe place where it won't get stepped on.

4.) After you remove the valence the torx screws that attach the dash fascia to the underlying structure, are exposed. Remove the screws and set them aside. The next bit can be a little tricky, so pay close attention.

The tabs that hold the dash fascia to the underlying structure are behind the tabs of the upper dash shelf because they share the same torx screws to attach. You have to lift each of the upper dash tray tabs up enough to allow you to pull the dash fascia tabs in front. This will free the top of the dash fascia from the structure.

Note: When you replace the dash don't forget that the fascia tabs are placed behind the shelf tabs or it won't go back together right.

5.) Lower the steering wheel to its lowest position. Pull the bottom of the dash fascia away from the bottom structure. It's held in place by metal friction clips that fit into holes in the dash. Disconnect the headlight switch cable and the trip reset switch cables. Be aware that cables are held in place by locking mechanisms.

6.) Remove the dash fascia from the car by turning it so that it is free while supporting it's weight, sliding it to the right and out the open passenger door. Set it aside, on a flat surface where it can't be stepped on.

7.) There are three screws that hold the radio in place, two on the Left, and one on the Right, but be aware that there is another screw below the radio that holds the center console air duct to the structure that should be removed as well. The air duct tab can interfere with the removal and replacement of the radio, but once the screw is removed the tab can be slid down just enough to allow the radio to slide in or out freely.

8.) Installation is the reverse of removal. But remain aware of air duct alignment and that the fascia tabs are placed behind the upper dash tray tabs before you replace the torx screws. Also the connectors that attach the valence should be reset by pushing the rods two clicks back, so that there is a small button above the connector flange. Then when you insert the connectors through the holes to reattach the valence, push the buttons in one click with your finger so they are flush, to lock them in place.

Good luck.

-Rob

Wow Rob,......I just wish this was a picture write-up. ( for us,the lame people).Thanx.

stan wrote:

Wow Rob,......I just wish this was a picture write-up. ( for us,the lame people).Thanx.

If I replace my radio "again" I'll be sure to take some pics. But you know what? I just realized that there is a pretty good write up at the start of this thread, and it has pics! The order and terminology is changed a little, but it should be enough to give you a pretty good idea of what to do.

Best of luck. -Rob

Rob bro, I don't remember but do u have a touch screen LCD nav system?...or it was a new head unit.

stan wrote:

Rob bro, I don't remember but do u have a touch screen LCD nav system?...or it was a new head unit.

I just purchased an OEM reconditioned head unit that simply does not play CDs. I didn't know it was defective until after I installed it. That was about two weeks ago. I got my money back, but was left with a decision. I could replace the CD mech with a new old stock CD mechanism that would fix my OEM unit for $100, or I could buy an aftermarket head unit with all kinds of modern features. I did not relish the prospect of tearing into my dash again for no good reason, so I want to be sure before I make a move.

It's not a simple choice for me because I want to keep my Riviera as close to stock as I can. And while the OEM radio has real limitations, it was designed for this car and in my opinion it just looks right. Recently I decided that as long as I keep the old original radio, and limit the radio modification to something that can be easily reversed to original condition by myself or the next owner if desired, I can put in a modern head unit.

That said, it's not easy to find a head unit that I'd be happy with. There are many choices, and money is also a consideration. I also don't want something that looks too out of place. In other words, something heavy on function, not "bling." I would also prefer a unit that fits in the space without having to cut the plastic in the back of the radio cavity. The less I have to mod the better.

Right now I'm leaning toward a Valor head unit; DDN-868W. The design is understated, and the graphic interface is not too cartoonish. Some of the features I like about it are (1.) Programed steering wheel controls (2.) Navigation (3.) Bluetooth (4.) Rear view camera input (5.) SD and USB inputs (6.) CD/DVD disk player (7.) Power antenna control. (8.) Dimmer function.

Many of these features are pretty standard, but it's a radical transition from what came with the car. I'm still looking around, but when I settle on a head unit and install it I'll post some pictures. In the mean time I'm using an FM transmitter that plays MP3s through the radio.

Best of luck to you. -Rob

Take a look at the SPH-DA210. It is more or less the same as the unit I have, except it has bluetooth streaming and DVD/CD playback.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/AppRadio/AppRadio+3+(SPH-DA210)

These units seem to fit perfectly for our dash. The feature list matches any other unit out there, and you get the capability of mirroring your phone's screen. I might make a video of mine to show you what I mean. Since I don't have bluetooth streaming I have to play all of my media through the HDMI/mirror connection. It's a bit of a pain sometimes, but it delivers crystal clear quality and allows me to use any android app I want for playback.

I also have a stock headunit with a good CD drive and a bad cassette. $10 + shipping and it's yours to mess with.

matt270avian wrote:

Take a look at the SPH-DA210. It is more or less the same as the unit I have, except it has bluetooth streaming and DVD/CD playback.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/AppRadio/AppRadio+3+(SPH-DA210)

These units seem to fit perfectly for our dash. The feature list matches any other unit out there, and you get the capability of mirroring your phone's screen. I might make a video of mine to show you what I mean. Since I don't have bluetooth streaming I have to play all of my media through the HDMI/mirror connection. It's a bit of a pain sometimes, but it delivers crystal clear quality and allows me to use any android app I want for playback.

That Pioneer is a nice unit, but a little out of my price range. The unit I'm looking at is an off brand, factory refurbished, and about $220 on eBay.

Animator wrote:

That Pioneer is a nice unit, but a little out of my price range. The unit I'm looking at is an off brand, factory refurbished, and about $220 on eBay.

You can find used Pioneers on eBay for that or a little more. The problem with the Chinese headunits is that they are physically bigger, which means you have to cut more off of the front of your dash. With the Pioneer you may not have to cut any of the front at all. Coming from a person who has used both, the Chinese units are alright, but the Pioneer is just better. Sure they Chinese units can do everything the Pioneer can and sometimes more, but the Pioneer has better quality and fitment. It's kind of like buying the store brand cola vs actual Coca-Cola. They're more or less the same, but the real thing is better and you can't really explain why.

I think Robs idea is to buy a nav system that looks as much stock as possible.Sure the sound and features are important but he wants his Riv to look as if it came with it from the factory.So the Pioneer is out......haha

stan wrote:

I think Robs idea is to buy a nav system that looks as much stock as possible.Sure the sound and features  are important but he wants his Riv to look as if it came with it from the factory.So the Pioneer is out......haha

My decision is not final yet, but I do like to keep my car as stock as I can. I think it would be okay to put in an aftermarket head unit as long as I can reverse it back to original condition if I desire that later on. That means no cutting on the dash fascia, and preferably no cutting at all.

Matt made a great offer to me for a head unit that has a functioning CD mech, and I want to take him up on that. With a functioning head unit, I may decide to keep my Riv stock. The radio has never worked correctly since I've had the car.

Yes, but I'm saying the Chinese nav units are kind of a bad idea if he wants to keep the stock look. The only reason my dash doesn't look like crap from the cuts I made when I had mine is because I have the woodgrain kit to cover them up.

You don't have to go with Pioneer specifically, but they're just who I prefer. In the end I don't want to force you to go with one over the other, I'm just warning you of the possible things that can happen. Every day I still see a slight gap from my old cuts and I hate it.

Animator, I saw that you wanted to take me up on my offer. Shoot me a PM.

Cutting the dash can be avoided by installing the right size init.Try to have a HUD installed....

I think my head unit install could almost pass for factory... Let me take a picture and put it up here...

Doesn't have navigation, but you can make a double din touch screen unit look really clean with a bit of work.

Ohh yeah....cool

Hi guys, great write-up here, and I have a quick question before I dive headfirst into removing my dash. I'm not replacing the head unit (though maybe I should since I'll have the dash off anyway), but instead trying to get at a buned-out bulb behind my speedometer. Has anyone else had to do this? It's as simple as replacing a bulb, right? (Not having to replace the whole cluster or something dumb like that.)

This is my third Riv but the first to have a dash light go out. My last one went 253,000 miles without a problem, so I was spoiled by hardly ever having to do maintenance on that one, haha.

Yes, it is just as easy as replacing the single bulb! You might have to transfer the little sleeve to make the light green, but that's no big deal.

Will my headlights still come on using the auto-on if my headlight switch is unplugged? I'm removing the dash but due to wanting to take care of a few things while it's off, was wondering if I could just leave it off and drive around that way for a bit. So only question is will the headlights still come on at night?

The headlights should be permanently on if the switch is unplugged. However, you can just rotate the switch and TC/trip modules counterclockwise to unlock them from the dash. I usually just leave the switches sitting in their respective spots whenever I need the dash off for a prolonged amount of time.