What is this part and how do you know if it's working please?

I connected it with some wire but I don't know if it's working.

That is for the automatic rear leveling suspension. The metal rod should be connected to the plastic piece on the end of the lever. The air compressor will turn on depending on the location of the metal lever. Is your rear of your car look low or high in the air? The air pump should run for a few seconds as a self check 30 seconds or so after you first start your car.

Thank you my friend, I did Ray get back up and I guess I will have to start the car and listen for it. I'm guessing if I need one that's probably not available anymore?

Ebay

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1998+buick+riviera+level+control+sensor&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=3%22+exhaust+flange+gaskets

My car was a tiny bit low in the back without it being connected but nothing crazy.

carguy8888 wrote:

Thank you my friend, I did Ray get back up and I guess I will have to start the car and listen for it. I'm guessing if I need one that's probably not available anymore?

Ebay

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=1998+buick+riviera+level+control+sensor&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=3%22+exhaust+flange+gaskets

It is not, and it is.

My car was at the dealer for replacement of the rear emergency brake cable last year, and apparently the tech noticed an issue with my leveler link. Or bumped into it. Or whatever... Anyway -- I pick up the car, and there is a line item for a dollar three ninety eight or whatever for that part number (25604758). I got curious... the link is listed on sites such as GM Parts Direct but is listed as unavailable. Sometimes dealers have those parts, sometimes they are at Vintage Parts (but GMPD won't resell them, for reasons). That would be https://www.vpartsinc.com/ - the contract warehouse for slow moving and obsolete parts.

Different manufacturers have different rules for re-selling parts from Vintage Parts. In general they are not resold to end customers. However, if you have the part number (hint hint) it would not hurt to ask at the dealer. By the way, the ball stud the link attaches to is 10271003 and *is* available.

In my case, it was working when I drove it in but I am not sure when it was noticed/ordered because Vintage Parts is nowhere near here, it takes at least a day to get anything from there to here. Thinking about it... the car had been there a few times in quick succession for inspection after I had made some other repairs - replaced rear cradle (I should NEVER have reused the effing intermediate and rear brake cables) and it had failed inspection on technicalities - first time, drive cycle was not done; second time, it had sat too long with a marginal battery, I replaced the battery and ha ha... drive cycle not done. I got a provisional inspection certificate and brought the car in again for the cable replacement (parking on hills had become a PITA...) - passed inspection and the link showed up. Or some such -- I'd have to look back at the service invoices to really sort through the timeline but that's the gist of it.

Albert

Sounds like you had a headache. I think I need the rod or arm not the the ball catch?

carguy8888 wrote:

Sounds like you had a headache. I think I need the rod or arm not the the ball catch?

You need the rod. I gave you both numbers to have something to talk with the parts counter person about. GM might, for instance, still have a very similar part under another number that you can make work. To find it, see what cars the ball catch *is* on and have a look at their arms.

I missed the number to the rod, thank you.

carguy8888 wrote:

I missed the number to the rod, thank you.

25604758 is the rod with ball catch on each end. Is called "Height Sensor Link"

10271003 is the stud the ball catch clips onto, that you screw into the control arm or the air compressor lever respectively.

I had time so I googled the ball catch today Albert. I don't think I will find it separately. My car doesn't sit low in the back and I rarely have people in the back seat so I hope I should be good and spend money on something else.

carguy8888 wrote:

I had time so I googled the ball catch today Albert. I don't think I will find it separately.  My car doesn't sit low in the back and I rarely have people in the back seat so I hope I should be good and spend money on something else.

My guess is you could create something from common hardware that would work well.  There is a VALU Hardware store near me that has an aisle lined with drawers full of various odd hardware - nylon standoffs and bushings, 8.8 or better grade bolts, and so on. It is not far from a major industrial research facility.   My guess is that if you took that photo and went to an old-line hardware store in your area that is near a factory of any significant scale you'll be able to get parts that will properly replace that link.

I am thinking a turnbuckle, with the ends bolted on with some sort of fitting.  I am thinking a fitting made up of little galvanized or stainless bolts with nylon spacers and washers  However, at a full line hardware store there is likely something available that will work.  Something like the following (turnbuckle) but shorter, with ends to fit in place of the balls that are screwed into the arms. https://www.uscargocontrol.com/1-4-x-4-Jaw-Jaw-Galvanized-Turnbuckle.  Maybe this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Losi-Racing-244058-Turnbuckle-4mm-x-50mm-2-8X/123521036296 -- those ball ferrules should bolt cleanly onto the arms in place of the ball studs that are there now. Not sure how to protect them from weather. Maybe machine ends for the turnbuckles out of nylon that would snap onto the existing balls studs?


Albertj

Your almost right lol. I can't but you made me realize I have two guys that can make something work. I did have a different guy kind of wrap it together but i have no idea if it works do I need to if the car sits good and won't get loaded up? I would rather spend on the car elsewhere.

carguy8888 wrote:

Your almost right lol. I can't but you made me realize I have two guys that can make something work. I did have a different guy kind of wrap it together but i have no idea if it works do I need to  if the car sits good and won't get loaded up? I would rather spend on the car elsewhere.

You "should" if only because the stock springs are so light.

You can probably get an adequate turnbuckle and the associated odd hardware at a full line hardware store (like a True Value or Do It Best affiliate) , or even a "tractor supply" store near you.

A quick way to protect it from the weather would be to slop grease or undercoating on the fittings once installed.

Since I removed my power antenna to send it to Barney Eaton I heard the air pump motor which is a good thing. My question is with the air pump motor work if the arm was disconnected on the sensor? If not I guess that would mean I fixed it LOL.

carguy8888 wrote:

Since I removed my power antenna to send it to Barney Eaton I heard the air pump motor which is a good thing. My question is with the air pump motor work if the arm was disconnected on the sensor? If not I guess that would mean I fixed it LOL.

Yes the air pump will run for the time limit of whatever, at most (45 sec) then stop. Generally a bad idea, it overworks your pump and keeps the rear jacked. Disaster? no.

Really, just fix the link. I imagine one could fix it temporarily (a 1-year fix) with a mild steel strap or a coat hanger.

I did jerry-rig it, I just didn't know if it was working. The pub did run for 30 seconds or so and stop. Will the pup rug if it does not sense the arm is hooked up?

carguy8888 wrote:

I did jerry-rig it, I just didn't know if it was working. The pub did run for 30 seconds or so and stop. Will the pup rug if it does not sense the arm is hooked up?

Yes, the pump will run whether or not the arm is connected, as it can not sense that the arm is hooked up. It senses that the arm has reached a certain point. The pump, it will *stop* automatically if not reaching the setpoint after about 45 sec or so. Use a watch to time it. . If your system is normal, it should run literally for a few seconds at startup, like 5-8 seconds, if it's just you in the car. The more stuff in the car, the more it will run at startup. That assumes good air shocks, no system leaks, good compressor.

Thank you once again Albert. I guess we both will have fun in the snow today.

carguy8888 wrote:

Thank you once again Albert. I guess we both will have fun in the snow today.

Fun in the snow... sort of.

I'm at the south end of the Finger Lakes, and in the years I've lived here the snowy weather has **never** been as severe here as elsewhere in the region. The NY "snow belt" is about 50 miles to the north of this area. The heavy snow consistently streams to the north or south (toward Pennsylvania - specifically Altoona-Bedford and the region around Somerset in the Laurel Mountains, see teh purple part of the map here --> https://apps02.arifleet.com/ariclientformsrs/snowbelt/panj.aspx).

We do get what I call an "annual cold snap" in which it's so consistently cold for a long time that stuff just starts breaking. One year it stayed below 0 deg F for more than a week. Last year the cold snap killed my passenger door handle. This year it killed my drivers side sun visor (with a li'l help from me).

From the present northeastern storm, we had an inch or so of snow overnight.

That said, I'm avoiding driving the Riv anyway, until I replace the exhaust manifold. I put a post in the SC3800 topic area to get some input on that -- might not get any though it's not that interesting of a job. As for the Riv, might have to drive it tomorrow.

Albertj

I thought you were by Buffalo and I know they get killed every Winter. I'm in New York City where Winter is not so much fun.

carguy8888 wrote:

I thought you were by Buffalo and I know they get killed every Winter. I'm in New York City where Winter is not so much fun.

Naaaah - from where you are take the Major Deegan north to the Thruway, continue across the Tappan Zee, to Harriman; there turn west on I-86/NY 17 and drive about 4 hours -- that's all. The building in my sig, you can (barely) see the back side of it from the interstate, kind of in the middle distance, at I think Exit 46.

Riv's get much better gas mileage out here.

The farthest I go is Lebanon valley raceway and hang out with my friends. We stay in East greenbush which is near Albany. incidentally, I'm noticing the pump going on and it sounds like it's working correctly. Great advice thank you.

Every time you start the car, the pump will run from 3-5 seconds after a 17-35 second delay. That is normal. If the back of the car is low, it will run longer.

Great thank you Albert. The grey bottom on the outside of the car is that paint or trim?