$1000 budget.........

Pacesetter headers with install kit and 3 inch downpipe $349
http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=598&catid=110

1.9 ration rockers with 105 lb springs and retainers $400
http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=426&catid=104

3.3 inch modular pulley system ZZP $100
http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=205&catid=111

DHP programmer i know someone who will tune it for $40

NOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW

i have started thinking and my freind with the DHP tuner said if i got a XP cam he would be able to tune in a 3.2 inch pulley for sure and he could see what he could do to to tune in a 3.1

is there a write up anywhere on a cam install??????? or how hard is it to do??

and finally will i be into the high 13's with this ???

There are a couple cam instal links here http://tacgp.clubgp.com/custom_mods/index.html#engine.

A cam install is not a simple project. If you have zero experience with this type of work, I'd suggest having it done professionally. You don't want to mess it up.

You're throwing your money away if you don't spring for the special header coating. You might need a couple of the other options too.

Are the SLP headers significantly better than the Pacesetters? I see that there are a # of options with the Pacesetters which can run up the price.

i'm doing an XP cam install myself in the quasi-near future

XP cam + springs and retainers $470
single timing set $100 or $80 at intense
lifters $150
install kit $75
plus you need valve cover gaskets and other little things as warranted (coolant change, oil change, broken parts, etc.)

a cam is a +/- $800 project plus what dave said - if you don't have the know how, you have to pay to get it put in too.

I think it's worth it.

i actually am going a TOTALLY different route now.............

FULL size intercooler.......... and a 3.2 inch pulley...............

yess it will work.......... yess it WILL be reliable i just TRIED arguing that it was impossible to see 0KR with no other mods.......... and i was proven wrong .................... my friend who had a lumina with a L67 swap....... had a FULL size intercooler with a 3 inch pulley and one hell of a tune ran a 13.2 second quarter on slicks......... and 13.6 quarter ALL DAY....... with intercooler, downpipe, CAI, tstat

Well, you overshot your budget by a few hundred dollars with the IC idea.

Imo, an IC is the ultimate "supporting mod". KR will be zero, true. But it's not the ultimate power building mod unless you let the engine breath. Simple fact, you can boost all you want, but big boost doesn't necessarily mean big power. It just means big torque, which we have a gob of already.

Unless you open things up, you'll have no top-end power; we need top-end power to be fast. Rockers give top-end power, cams make it, headers make it. An IC by itself gives you nothing more than the ability to make lots of boost without KR. It's not a terrible plan, but for the money you could go faster without the IC. Me, I'd rather have an engine that flows lots of air, even if it doesn't make high boost numbers.

(I think your plan A will work better, choose 1.9s or cam, not both)

How much does a Lumina weigh?

It seems like my Riv is not significantly faster than the 3.1 Euro I drove in high school. Maybe a second or so 0-60.

Jack the R wrote:

How much does a Lumina weigh?

It seems like my Riv is not significantly faster than the 3.1 Euro I drove in high school. Maybe a second or so 0-60.

Yes but doesn't the Euro fall flat after 70 as the rivieria keeps on breathing.

I'd consider a full second diff in 0-60 to be pretty significant.

Agreed, the slower car would be 88 ft back, more than 5 car lengths behind.

oldsman105 wrote:

Jack the R wrote:

How much does a Lumina weigh?

It seems like my Riv is not significantly faster than the 3.1 Euro I drove in high school. Maybe a second or so 0-60.

Yes but doesn't the Euro fall flat after 70 as the rivieria keeps on breathing.

Could be. It's been gone for nearly a decade now and I didn't ride it very hard. My folks were usually broke and I was much too responsible as a lad.

AA wrote:

Well, you overshot your budget by a few hundred dollars with the IC idea.

Imo, an IC is the ultimate "supporting mod". KR will be zero, true. But it's not the ultimate power building mod unless you let the engine breath. Simple fact, you can boost all you want, but big boost doesn't necessarily mean big power. It just means big torque, which we have a gob of already.

Unless you open things up, you'll have no top-end power; we need top-end power to be fast. Rockers give top-end power, cams make it, headers make it. An IC by itself gives you nothing more than the ability to make lots of boost without KR. It's not a terrible plan, but for the money you could go faster without the IC. Me, I'd rather have an engine that flows lots of air, even if it doesn't make high boost numbers.

(I think your plan A will work better, choose 1.9s or cam, not both)

agreed 100%

I/C wouldn't be bad to get it out of the way then slowly work on other things?

But I would rather have a cam in first and maybe get an I/C later on.

If the budget wss $5k, it makes sense to do IC first.

Isn't IC a fairly complicated install? From that perspective, maybe it would be better to do IC last so you don't have to pull it off every time you add a new engine mod like cam, heads, ported blower etc.

the fact that the cam or rockers compensate the heat for their own added power makes them a very smart first item.
In other words, a 3.5ish pulley requires some minor supportive mods and a 3.2ish requires more. The rockers or cam are some of those prerequisite mods in addition to adding top end power. "killing two birds with one stone" The IC, in a manner of speaking doesn't add any power, like Aaron said.

The IC should be purchased later on when you have come to terms about what you want to end up doing to the engine/trans as far as mods.

ie - if you want to end up turboing it, the IC would pretty much be well over $1000 out the window or if you would rather just get a whipple, injectors, and a really good tune and run fine without the IC

The IC install doesn't look too complicated, just labor intensive. Should be a one day project, or you can split it up into two parts. Even though you have to take the blower off, I'd still consider it a bolt on mod.

The reason I suggested to do IC first if you know you're spending big money in the long run is, you don't necessarily need to remove it to install cam, rockers, headers, pulleys, blowers, etc. Also, you won't have to worry about KR, the biggest enemy. For the knock protection alone, I would've done it a long time ago if it were more affordable.

Didn't someone here do cam and say they'd pull the engine if they had to do it again?

That's one person's opinion. Some say you should do the same for headers, but... Even if you dropped the engine, why would you tear the blower and IC off to insert a cam through the side?

My opinion is, don't take the engine out unless you absolutely have to, or you have a lot of tools that makes the job easier.

Doesn't that big radiator part go on top of the engine?

Come to think of it I don't really know where it goes.

As far as I know, IC core goes between blower and lower intake manifold; IC radiator mounts in front or behind the current radiator.

then it has to come off to install a camshaft.
Pull the engine if you want to do a cam on a Riviera. It CAN be done by the wheel well if you unbolt the subframe and persuade it a bit (not the cam of course!!!) but it is no fun. No fun at all.

AA wrote:

As far as I know, IC core goes between blower and lower intake manifold; IC radiator mounts in front or behind the current radiator.

No top mount like on the STI?

It makes sense since we don't have the hood scoop and probably not the clearance either. But visually you've got to admit it would be damn sweet.

Visually, maybe. But I don't like the idea of having that hot radiator on top of the engine.