Transmission LInes

Hello,

Upon getting under my Riviera, it seems one or both of my lines are leaking - one is in the rubber part where the other line rubbed a hole in the rubber. I also think the other line may be leaking where the pressed on clamp that secures the rubber hose to the steel line.

How much are these from the dealer? I bet they aren't cheap!

I was wondering if I could remove both lines, cut out the rubber portions out on both lines and flare the steel ends and just buy transmission hose and run that with clamps?

Any ideas??

What year Riv ya got? Not all years have the same trans, so part numbers for OEM lines may be different. I can look up part numbers in a little while, and OEM prices.

Its a 1995 Riviera...I think that the factory lines will probably run me at least $100 or more for both. Just a guess though.

I wouldn't bother. I'd cut the rubber where they rubbed through and get some 3/8 hose 'repair' barbs and plumb in an external transmission cooler

Just ordered my new OEM cooler lines for my '95SC from an online discount dealer. The price was about $18 each plus postage, less than $45 all together. What a deal...its no wonder the lines are dealer only. I can't imagine the aftermarket being able to compete on price or quality.
Now I have something to do T-giving weekend, other than spend hour upon hour at my in-laws

That's a good price. I think I paid around $70 for the tranny cooler lines a few years ago. And I didn't really think that was too bad!

Well, I replaced my cooler lines and it wasn't as easy as expected, still it wasn't too bad. Getting to 3 of the 4 fittings is no problem, however, the fitting at the return line at the bottom of the cooler (radiator) cannot be reached without removing the upper core support (the bracket that spans across the top of the radiator) and the passenger side cooling fan. The big problem was getting the wiring connector off of the fan. It is next to impossible to unclip the connector with the fan in the car. After about 10 minutes of trying using all types of picks and a mirror, I just cut the wires. I felt like such a hack. It was easy enough to splice the wires and seal them with a couple of layers of shrink tubing.
While I was at it, I pulled the transmission pan to change the fluid and filter. Even though I siphoned about 4 qts out before dropping the pan, there was still about 3 qts to deal with. I always lower one side of the pan to help drain the fluid and keep the mess to a minimum. Even though the car just hit 94K miles and the ATF had never been changed, the color of the fluid that came out was clear and red and the smell was good.
Since the pan was off I decided to install a drain plug, so I drilled a 9/16 inch hole in the pan at the narrow end on the passenger side of the pan, where the factory puts the magnet (which I tossed). I then welded an M12 nut on the INSIDE of the pan, tacking it at 3 points. I cut 3 notches (about 1/8 inch x 1/4 inch) in the face of the nut (before welding) that was against the inside of the pan to allow all of the ATF to drain out. An M12 magnetic drain plug from the parts store completed the job. I did it this way for several reasons: 1) I wanted the drain plug gasket to seal on a wide, flat surface, 2) I didn't want the plug to extend too far down from the bottom of the pan and risk being knocked off by a stray rock, 3) the plug is very close to the oil drain so that when the car is jacked up from the drivers side, as I normally do, both the engine oil and ATF plugs will be on the low side to make servicing easy. I will post a pic of the completed job very soon.
All that was left to do was to change the filter, replace the pan, torque the bolts to 10 ft. lbs in a crossing pattern, and refill with about 7 qts of quality ATF. I plan to change the fluid again at the next oil change and then about once a year after that (about every 40K miles).